Question First trip to Red Sea for a experienced diver

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Don’t skip the slightly deeper wrecks like Rosalie Moller - it’s a brilliant dive.
 
To answer the OP question : I think a LOB is much better. You can dive many different sites, if you were to do that from land you would have to change your hotel all the time. The north and the south have both their advantages. Depending on the time you have, there are LOB doing the north the first week and the south the second week. I did that this summer with Dunes and it was very nice. The only disadvantage to a LOB is that if you love a site you have to follow the LOB and leave the site... On my LOB they were guides but you did not have to follow them or you could stay quite far just to have a global direction (although my buddy and I followed in the Thistlegorm as it is more complicated to know where you are if you don't know the wreck). September is a very nice month, the water is still warm (on the boat it is ok even in August)
 
Do not go south towards marsa alam. All corals destroyed. Coral graveyards.
Without photos, I call bullsh!t.

Shaab Claudio is well south of Marsa Alam and as YOU and anyone else can see, this particular reef is hardly a coral graveyard, despite some bleaching:

 
I went to BDE and Fury Shoals in mid-September and sadly the comments about the bleaching are true. I have attached some photos, but didn't take any of the worst reefs as it was very sad to see.

The bleaching is partly seasonal - last year was bad (and you can see the permanent damage on the reefs), but this year from August onwards was even worse with temps hitting 32C+ in the south. Sea temps are still over 30C even in late September.

In Fury Shoals, my personal observation was that about 85% of coral was bleached, with the remaining 15% showing signs of stress. About 30% looked like it had algae growing over or was already dead. Marsa Alam, Brothers and Daedalus not quite as bad but still severe. Elphinstone coral looked stressed in the shallows but good at depth. Hurghada reefs were in good health (and apparently healthy around Sharm El-Sheikh too).

I really do hope they recover in the winter and temps do not get as hot next summer. They are still lovely places to dive with all the marine life.
 

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