First Regulator help

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Lottifish

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Location
Los Angeles
# of dives
25 - 49
Hello,

I have all my equipment now besides tank and regulator and I have no idea where to start. I'm a girl (if it matters) and I would like a regulator with a larger mouthpiece (the smaller mouthpieces hurt my gums for some reason). Can you tell me what I should look for when choosing a regulator?

Thanks!
 
Mouthpieces can be changed to what ever you like,just find the right one.
As for the reg.one 1st needs to know where you'll be doing your diving.
i.e. coldwater or warm.Deep or not.
 
I dive mostly in Southern California so in a 7mm in 50 or so degree water but I'd like to be able to take this reg. to tropical waters with me. I don't go below 70' for now but would also like this reg to be able to go to around 150' at least. I want something that can grow with me and that doesn't take a lot of "know how."
 
If you're going to have your reg serviced every year, try to find something at your LDS. Another advantage of buying from your LDS is that you can try a few regs before deciding.
However, if you're like me and you're going to check your own reg and have it serviced only as needed, and you don't give a flying J about brand name, and you're on the frugal side, look at one of the many online vendors for a sale. I am personally biased towards environmentally sealed diaphragm regulators, because they keep all the water/crud out of the first stage, unless you flood them. Despite what anyone might tell you, any modern diaphragm reg, such as oceanic cdx-5 (for example), will deliver more air than you might ever need.
If you do go with your LDS, look around the internet for pricing on the regs they carry so you can go in armed with pricing information. If your LDS refuses to price match any of the online authorized dealers try to negotiate a few years worth of free regulator service.
Good luck.
 
I would suggest choosing from regulators that the local shops can service as its much quicker and easier than sending your regs to some to have them serviced. Any brand will have high quality regs that should suit your purpose. For colder water I would recommend an environmentaly sealed reg. I personally have the Sherwood Maximus which is a great cold water reg and I highly recommend it. Sherwood has a reputation as a really solid reg and you will probably never need another one as long as they are well maintained.
 
Things to consider when buying a reg:
1) Your budget ;-)
2) How it breathes - some brands breathe "easier" than others, some can be adjusted
3) Weight - some people really like the feel of lighter in their mouth, some for its baggage consideration
4) Balanced - you want it to breathe the same at 30' and 130' (150 - already thinking of tech?)
5) Brand reliability - some are known for great performance and durability
6) Swivel mount - many people like the swivel connector as it reduces "pull"
7) Diaphragm vs Piston - lots of threads with lots of tech stuff and thoughts, lots of people in both camps.
8) Environmental seals - if you think you'll do even colder (sub 40) or really "dirty" diving

I'm sure there are others.

I've been diving the Atomic B2 (love it) and am awaiting delivery of an ST1.
 
Would the fact that the US Coast Guard, US Navy and NOAA all selected the Oceanic Delta 4/FDX10 for cold water diving (less than 50 deg F) make a difference? This is the reg I bought for my wife. I bought it without the DVT and swivel. That may come back to bite me. She may be a candidate for the swivel.

I would also consider the ScubaPro Mk17/G250V as it is highly regarded for cold water diving. Although, at the moment, I don't have one.

On the AquaLung site, they mark their recommended cold water regs with a snowflake icon. Most are sealed diaphragm regs.

I want to be able to get service anywhere in the world. For that reason, I would probably stick with the big 3: ScuabPro, AquaLung and Oceanic.

See what you can find for the Delta 4. There a pretty good deal at Oceanic Delta 4 DVT Regulator but it lacks the swivel.

A rather expensive cosmetic upgrade: Oceanic Delta 4 DVT Regulator

The same reg with swivel and DVT: Oceanic Delta 4/FDX10 w/DVT Regulator

Richard
 
4) Balanced - you want it to breathe the same at 30' and 130' (150 - already thinking of tech?)

Just an FYI, an unbalanced regulator will breathe the same at 30' as it does at 130', if not, then it's not doing it's job and is probably busted. However, the main performance distinction between a balanced and an unbalanced regulator is that a balanced regulator will maintain the spec'ed IP until tank pressure of ~145psi above ambient while the unbalanced reg will get progressively harder to breathe because IP will start dropping as you get below ~500psi tank pressure. So in not so many words, the balanced reg will breathe fine until you're almost out of air, while the unbalanced reg will begin breathing harder as your tank pressure drops below 500psi. Some people like that about unbalanced regs as it gives them a warning they're about to run out of air.
 
4) Balanced - you want it to breathe the same at 30' and 130' (150 - already thinking of tech?)

Just an FYI, an unbalanced regulator will breathe the same at 30' as it does at 130', if not, then it's not doing it's job and is probably busted. However, the main performance distinction between a balanced and an unbalanced regulator is that a balanced regulator will maintain the spec'ed IP until tank pressure of ~145psi above ambient while the unbalanced reg will get progressively harder to breathe because IP will start dropping as you get below ~500psi tank pressure. So in not so many words, the balanced reg will breathe fine until you're almost out of air, while the unbalanced reg will begin breathing harder as your tank pressure drops below 500psi. Some people like that about unbalanced regs as it gives them a warning they're about to run out of air.

And to complicate it more, the first or second stage (or both) may be balanced. Balancing either will acomplish the desired effect, balancing both is redundant. While picking nits, the change in IP of an unbalanced first stage is more or less linear until it matches tank pressure. It starts changing as soon as the tank pressure drops by any amount and continues easing down (or up in the case of an unbalanced diaphram first stage) until the tank and IP are at the same pressure at which time it matches and follows tank pressure. While the IP and cracking pressure of the second stage change through the entire range of tank pressures, most divers can't tell the difference until the tank starts to get below 300 to 500 psi.
 
Herman,

I know you've been diving for a long time, if you bring up an unbalanced diaphragm first stage regulator:).
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

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