Trip Report Fiji-Volivoli & Waidroka-April 2025

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Living4Experiences

I Love Sharks
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Messages
1,158
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Location
Tigard, Oregon
# of dives
500 - 999
About Me. My sixth and seventh locations in this four-country, two-month dive trip brings me to Volivoli Beach Resort (VV) in Rakiraki and Waidroka Bay Resort (WBR) in Pacific Harbor, Fiji. I’m a solo traveler with 700+ dives, and with the help of Bluewater Dive Travel, this was my second visit to VV and first visit to WBR. This trip started in February in Raja Ampat, Indonesia, followed by Puerto Galera, Philippines, then on to Perth, Australia, then on to Exmouth (Ningaloo), Australia. I wrote trip reports for those stays. Due to character limits, this will be more than one page of posting. I'll sprinkle in some photos and video links on my YouTube channel.

Trip Report - Raja Ampat-Cove Eco-February 2025
Trip Report - Raja Ampat Dive Lodge-March 2025
Trip Report - White Manta Liveaboard-March 10-17, 2025
Trip Report - Puerto Galera, Philippines-March 20-30, 2025
Trip Report - Perth, Australia-March 31-April 6, 2025

My stay at VV were April 12-19 and WBR April 19-24. I’ll combine these two resorts in one review and do some comparisons of each experience. Since I was at VV in April 2024, I knew it would be a good experience. This time, I wanted to add some shark diving in Pacific Harbor. Both the resort packages included full board meals, diving, and airport transfers (with some cost adjustment for the transfer from VV to WBR.)

Getting There. For the domestic portion in economy class, I left Exmouth on a Qantas flight to Perth with a 5-hour layover. I had to claim my bags and take an airport bus to the international terminal to recheck my bags with Virgin Australia. I used loyalty points to fly in business class, laid over in Melbourne, and arrived in Nadi without any issues.

Land Transfers. VV uses Pehicle for their transfers. The pickup at the Nadi airport went smooth. The driver spoke good English and made the usual grocery stop along the way so I could get bottled water, etc. The car was clean and the A/C worked well. This is my second experience with them and I would highly recommend them.

Crusoe Tours did the transfer from VV to WBR and from WBR to Nadi airport. The car was clean with good A/C. The journey from VV to WBR was really long, nearly five hours. Driving through Suva was total traffic gridlock, which added to the travel time. The driver didn’t speak much English, drove really slow, and got lost once we left the Suva area. Instead of pulling over to look at Google Maps, he slowed down to 15 mph and couldn’t drive in a straight line. I eventually asked him to pull off the road to look at his phone.

For the return to the airport, the driver from Crusoe was 35 minutes late. When WBR called the driver, he said there was a lot of traffic. Duh…it’s your job to calculate the drive time based on traffic conditions. I wasn’t happy. I had built in enough time when I got to the airport to spend time in the business class lounge, but a lot of that time was eroded. In addition, this guy was cursing like a pirate at other drivers. It was very unprofessional. I would not recommend using Crusoe Tours for your transfer.

Volivoli Beach Resort. VV is a dive-focused resort, but there are occasionally nondivers that stay there. The landscaping here is beautiful and well manicured. There’s a mangrove forest down the hill as you walk to the dive shop. It sits on a multi-tiered hill, which provides stunning views. The hills are quite steep, so if you’ve got issues with your knees or back, this is something to consider. The least expensive rooms are at the top of the hill.

Waidroka Bay Resort. WB is a diver and surfer resort. During my stay, there were 6 surfers and they had their own boat and guide. The resort sits ocean front on mostly flat ground. I stayed in one of the beach-front cabins, and there are other cabins up a hill, 62 steps. The grounds are well landscaped with beautiful tropical foliage and flowers. It’s a short, flat walk to the dive shop and the pier. There is one main building that has the kitchen, dining room, bar, reservation desk, and office. The bar is not always staffed.

Accommodation. At VV, I stayed in a premium ocean view villa on the second tier on the hill, the same level as the check-in desk and gift shop. From those rooms, you go downhill to the dive shop, restaurant, and ocean front rooms and uphill for the other category of rooms.

The room was very clean and the bed was really comfortable. It’s the only place I stayed on this entire dive trip that I didn’t have to use my blow-up camping mattress to either soften a hard mattress or fill in a soggy mattress. There were two ceiling fans, and the A/C worked perfectly. There are plenty of plugs for charging all the stuff. Bring your Australian adapters. In this spacious accommodation, you’ll be able to stretch out on the L-shaped sofa in the open floor plan living room. It felt like an apartment. The full kitchen had everything but a stovetop; full-size refrigerator, microwave, sink, utensils and dishes. It also had a washer. Last year, I had to buy laundry soap for $2 FJD from the front desk, but they’ve changed it so that the soap is an included amenity. They also provide clothespins, which were absent last year. At both VV and WBR, there are outside drying lines, but with the humidity, everything dries faster inside the air-conditioned room.

The double sink bathroom was also very spacious with adequate storage and countertop space and a good size walk-in shower. Water pressure in the shower was very good and no shortage of hot water. VV is hooked up to the main power grid of the island, so steady power was not an issue.

At WBR, you’re in more of a cabin-style accommodation with open cracks and crevices and doors and windows that don’t line up to create that perfect seal from the environment and insects. I had a good-sized gecko that called my cabin her home, and I think she had a baby because then there were two of them. They are about the only critter I’ll not kill that’s inside my room. The A/C was adequate but not great. In the afternoon heat, the unit was not powerful enough to keep the room under 82F.

There’s a ceiling fan, mini fridge, a rusty and corroded kettle, coffee and tea supplies, and a small bathroom with zero sink/counter space and a walk in shower. The room was short on plugs, so bring a plug extender. The mattress was soggy. The water in the shower was too hot and the cold water never came in the pipes. The toilet seat wouldn't stay up, so I used some duct tape to tape it to the toilet tank. The included hair dryer was not in the room, so I needed to get one from the front desk. The bathroom window did not shut completely, so I needed to jam a towel in the gap that was letting the heat in.

Drinking Water. Neither VV nor WBR provide bottled water. At VV, it is not safe to drink the tap water anywhere on the grounds except from the restaurant and bar. I was told on my last visit that the water from the tap stations around the resort is not safe to drink. You can shower and brush your teeth safely with the tap water in your room.

At WBR, a bottled water station in the central lobby with a 5-gallon jug sitting atop a dispenser is where you can fill your own bottle. There’s a notebook in each room that explains everything about the resort. One entry in the book stated, hey, we have spring water, and you can drink the tap water if you boil it in the provided kettle. I was very surprised to see that advisement, because it’s just not true. There’s a whole process of making unsafe water safe to drink, and it’s not just boiling it and drinking it. And the kettle in my room was old and rusted on the inside, so it was useless anyway.

Wi-Fi. At VV, high-speed wi-fi is available throughout the property, even inside your room, My package came with free wi-fi for two devices, so I don’t know what the fee is if you purchase it on site. My T-Mobile service worked without wi-fi, and it connected to the FJ Vodafone network. At WBR, free Starlink wi-fi is only available in the main lobby building. Even with Starlink, the wi-fi wasn't very strong. My cell service did not work here at all.

The Staff. VV has 140 employees, and WBR has 20. All the VV staff are native Fijians. They have an internship program for dive guides, so there were a few newbies in training on the boat. Fijians are the warmest and friendliest people and always aim to please. The owners, the Darlings, live on the property, and I think that makes a huge difference in the service you receive.

I didn’t get the warm fuzzies with the WBR nondive workers. It felt like they were understaffed and not trained very well, particularly in the restaurant. I had issues with the food and service and minor issues with housekeeping.

Spa Services. VV has an air-conditioned room for massages. I love their massages. WBR offers an outdoor massage in the heat and mosquitoes. I got a massage in my room at no extra charge. The 60-minute massage was actually 50 minutes, and it was just...meh.

To be continued...
 

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Continued Trip Report.

Snacks and Extras. It’s a good idea to bring your own comfort food, snacks, alcohol, sodas, water, etc. It can add up quickly during your stay if you buy these things from the resorts and there's a limited selection.

At VV, breakfast has juice, coffee, tea, cut fruit, yogurt, pastries, muesli, toast buffet style. You can order a hot breakfast off the menu if you wish as an inclusion to the full-board plan. Lunch and dinner are ordered off the menu, no buffets. On Meke night, there was a BBQ buffet on the beach. I was on the full-board plan, which was too much food at VV and not enough food at WBR. The food at VV was so much better than WBR. It was consistent in good quality and taste, and they have the best desserts I’ve had at a dive resort.

The WBR continental breakfast consisted of bread for toast, butter, jam, peanut butter, juice at room temperature, bananas, apples, corn flakes, and dry biscuits in a jar. It was really lame.

What I found challenging at WBR versus VV was the hours of food service.

At VV:
Breakfast starts at 6:30 a.m. Boat leaves at 8 a.m.
Lunch: 12-3 p.m.
Dinner: 6 p.m.
VV’s food schedule allows for plenty of time to eat, digest, get ready for diving, or have a later lunch if the morning dives run late.

At WBR:
Breakfast starts at 7:30 a.m. Boat leaves at 8 a.m. (The cooks don’t arrive until 7 a.m.)
Lunch: 12:30-2 p.m. If the morning dives run late, which they did, you have to rush to get to the restaurant. They will not keep it open past 2 p.m.
Dinner: 6:30 p.m. It’s a set menu with a choice of two items only (one vegan/vegetarian and one with meat). Well, what if you’re not vegan or vegetarian and don’t eat the meat they’re serving? If you don’t like what’s being served, you don’t get dinner. And they allow NO substitutions on anything.

WBR’s food schedule is just not diver friendly. I really disliked not having a choice of dinner items, and this was not disclosed when I booked here. The food was mostly inedible. The quality of the food and the portions were very poor. On the meal plan, during the meal you’re eating you’d order your next meal in advance. How do I know what I want for lunch when I’m still eating breakfast? I couldn’t figure out why except possibly to prepare the meals in advance then warm them up to the extent they can. If the kitchen staff doesn’t show up until 7 a.m., how can they cook fresh food for everyone showing up at 7:30 a.m.? Well, they can’t. I’m sure some items were prepared in advance and warmed up.

With the meal plan, you choose one item from the menu. If that one item is not enough food, you pay extra for more food. If the portions were of decent size, I wouldn’t have gone hungry. Without going through every meal that was poor, I’ll just say that 3 banana pancakes 4 inches in diameter with 2 pieces of banana on each pancake served cold is not enough nutrition to go diving. Egg dishes come out undercooked or not cooked to order. If you didn’t have the meal package, dinner was priced at $77.50 FJD, a ridiculously high price for a choice of two set meals, crappy food, and small portions.

To make it all worse, I became sick from the food beginning on the second day. It wasn't the kind of sick to your stomach from eating different kinds of food than you're used to and the pain is in your lower intestine. I had cramping and severe pain. Within 30 minutes of eating, the pain and cramping would start. Maybe they were cooking with the tap water. Maybe it was poor hygiene and not washing their hands. When I was not diving, I spent a lot of time on the toilet and eating anti-diarrheal medication. This carried on through my trip home and for two weeks after I was home. I thought I might have had a parasite or tapeworm because I just couldn’t keep anything in my stomach. Nothing would digest and come out as liquid. Sorry if that’s TMI. It was rough, and I finally got over it.

I was not the only one who was sick and thought the food was terrible. I met a couple that were divers from New Zealand. With just a 3-hour flight, they’d been to Fiji 17 times and commented the food was some of the worst they’d had. They said there are a lot of places throughout the islands that have really bad food. By the fourth day, there were about eight of us that were sick.

The Crew. I had a better experience with the dive guides at VV for this second visit. They were very good at pointing things out. There was an incident, however, where one of the interns lost one of my weight pockets into the ocean. I have the Aqua Lung SureLock II pockets. I have been unable to find another one until this week on Amazon. Aqua Lung was purchased again at the end of June. The three dive shops in my hometown had none. Aqua Lung has none in stock and there’s no foreseeable future for production of goods.

At WBR, Jamie and Sam were my guides for all the dives. Sam is a native Fijian. Beth and Sandy are not native to Fiji and they run the day-to-day operations. Jamie and Grant are dive guides from South Africa. That was the extent of the dive staff. Jamie, Grant, and Sam would rotate their schedule, but they worked long hours over consecutive days. Grant would do the Nitrox fills. IMO, they were understaffed. There were no extra deckhands or shop staff to do things like rinsing rental gear or cleaning the boat.

They were all very competent, though Sam was not a great guide. During my first dive with him at the site called Aquarium, he tore off a piece of sponge to clean his mask while underwater then threw it down like it was trash. He dives with free diving fins, and he took off like a bullet, leaving all the divers behind and not looking back. On this same first dive, the visibility was low and there was strong current. The dive plan was to move from pinnacle to pinnacle over several spots. It was evident from the conditions that that was not happening. We’d be lucky to hit one or two pinnacles and stay put without losing the group.

We had 8 divers for one guide, and it was a disaster. With Sam out in the blue, it was every diver for him/herself. It was 45 minutes of constant swimming against the current. I was using my noise maker to try to get his attention to no avail. Everyone was a bit pissed off getting back on the boat because all we did was swim, swim, swim without stopping. It was like he was in a race to get to all of the pinnacles in one dive.

Nitrox. Unlimited nitrox was $125 USD for the week at VV paid in advance as part of the package; $15 FJD per tank at WBR paid at the end of my stay. For 9 dives, it was $60 USD. The Nitrox fills were consistent at 31%-32% and 3000 to 3100 pounds at both resorts.

The Boats. VV and WBR both have five boats. VV was using two of their boats and WBR was using one boat for surfers and one boat for divers and that was sufficient. As a big dive resort, VV’s boats can feel crowded, almost as if they should get a third boat on the water to spread out the divers. Both resorts’ boats have shade, and there’s an orange jug to refill your water bottle.

Camera Room. VV has a very nice, new camera for all your photography needs. There is no camera room at WBR.

My Camera Setup. I have an Olympus TG6 on a single-arm tray with a Sea & Sea YS-03 strobe and a Kraken Hydra 4000 video light. There was too much backscatter during the shark dives, so I didn’t use the flash.

Water Temps. At VV, the water temps ranged from 80-86F; at WBR, it was 83-87F. Air temps were about 80F at both locations.

The Diving. Both resorts have an onsite shop, and you can dive your computer. All my dives averaged an hour or more, with the longest being 73 minutes. At VV, the groups were well organized by experience level, for which I was grateful. Since I’m a single diver, I’m usually the add-on to a group, and the groups were no bigger than four or five divers to one guide. WBR assigned insta-buddies, but that never works for me, so it doesn’t take long for me to be on my own. The groups were too large for me at six to eight divers per guide.

What makes VV a great destination is getting to the Bligh water. This trip, I went out to the Bligh five days. Conditions were spectacular! The seas were not rough and a couple of days it was flat water on the boat rides. The soft corals in all the colors of the rainbow are just stunning. Giant walls of sea fans, soft corals blanketing the ocean floor, and beautiful topography blew my mind again! The soft corals are the stars of the show here, and you’ll not find the bigger animals, like sharks and rays; however, I did see one white tip shark. There were clown fish swimming among the anemones, turtles, bump head parrotfish, lots of nudis, a hairy ghost pipefish, flatworms, porcelain crabs, blue dragon nudibranch, blue tang, scorpion fish, huge porcupine fish, painted lobsters, and innumerable colorful anthias swimming around the reef. My logbook pages are full.

Dive sites visited were Redemption, Fan City, Salad Bowl, Mellow Yellow, Chile, Heartbreak Ridge, Potluck, Underwater Fantasy, Jema, Nemo’s Playground, Dua Dale, and Black Magic Mountain.

At WBR, I had 9 dives total, 2 shark dives, 3 dives at Cakau Lekaleka (more comments to come), and 4 reef dives. The reef dives were at Aquarium, 7 Sisters (nice wreck), Pipe, and the Pond (sandy bottom and dead bommies). 7 Sisters and Pipe were the only two sites worth diving. Aquarium could have been good if conditions were better.

To be continued...
 

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Continued Trip Report.

Shark Diving with Aqua Trek. WBR uses Aqua Trek (AT) and they dive a site called The Bistro. It’s a two-tank dive with a maximum of 60 minutes at about 60 feet. Not all of that time is with the sharks. But from drop in to back on the surface was supposed to be 60 minutes based on your air consumption. Several dive operators show up at the site at a designated time. I estimate we had about 30 divers among 5 boats. We were the first boat to arrive, so we got the briefing and some education about the species of sharks that come here. The plan was to explore an upside down wreck at the site after the shark portion was over.

When given the signal, each boat company gets their divers in the water one by one to get down to the arena. The divers are pointed where to go and that’s your place to remain stationary. I know WBR has done this dive many times, but for some reason, Jamie and Sam didn’t prompt our divers to start getting ready early enough so as not to be late to the party. But that’s exactly what happened. So after a lot of lost time (about 10 minutes), we were the last group in the water and AT had already started when we got to the arena.

They use a giant plastic trash can with a lid that’s filled with bait. From the surface, they move the trash can back and forth across the center of the arena so the divers get a close-up view of the sharks as they swim by. The AT divers determine how long your interaction with the sharks will be based on their behavior.

Towards the end of the dive, they will open the lid of the trash can and the feeding frenzy begins. On this day, though, they didn't open it and just signaled to our dive guides when it was over. On the second dive, it ended very early. Jamie said they do that if the sharks' behavior becomes aggressive. I didn't see that at all. My videos showed the sharks swimming calmly amongst each other.

On these two dives, there were about 40 sharks. It was quite impressive, the best shark dives I’ve done to date for the number of sharks, and the first time seeing bull sharks. Many bulls, one sickle fin lemon, many tawny nurse, and silver tip sharks arrived for the show. The visibility was pretty good and I felt safe the entire time. I’ve done several shark dives in other locations and this did not disappoint. Other first-timers to the experience burned through their air pretty quickly.

The WBR guides terminated the dives early with no explanation why. Once we left the arena, I was supposed to be free to explore the wreck and do my safety stop until the 60-minute mark, but I didn’t get that. It’s over $200 USD for this two-tank dive. Dive #1 was 32 minutes with the sharks and a total dive time of 46 minutes. Dive #2 was 28 minutes with the sharks and a total dive time of 50 minutes. I had A LOT of air left. Here's a few videos:
A Calm Shark Dive at the Bistro, Fiji
Shark Dive at the Bistro, Fiji
Soft Corals in the Bligh Water, Fiji
Corals and Fishes in the Bligh Water, Fiji

Cakau Lekaleka. This remote atoll deserves its own write-up. I didn’t know much about this site, so when it was offered, I was intrigued. Apparently, tides, sea conditions, moon phase all play a role in getting here. It’s 1 ½ hours boat ride each way and is offered as 3 tanks with lunch provided. There’s a $200 FJD surcharge because they bring out two boats. The second boat brings the extra tanks and coolers with lunch and also serves as a backup boat in case of emergency. There are no radios on their boats. The captain and guides have only their cell phones for emergencies and there’s no cell service out here. My original dive package had two days of shark dives, but given my experience with the shortened shark dives and expressing that to Beth, I was able to swap out the second shark dive day for Cakau Lekaleka.

This atoll was nothing short of spectacular! It’s covered in healthy hard coral with 80-foot visibility. Melissa’s Garden in Raja Ampat immediately came to mind. There is no sign of bleaching or any algae cover anywhere. I haven’t seen an intact, healthy brain coral in a few years, and they are thriving here. There were so many turtles. I saw several juvenile white tip sharks sleeping or swimming in and through the reef ledges. There were young giant clams, clown trigger fish, juvenile batfish, Napoleon wrasse, titan trigger fish, nudibranch eggs, to name a few. Jamie pointed out a new one for me…clown fish eggs with eyes nestled on a rock next to an anemone. That was amazing! This was a special excursion, and it was every bit worth the long boat ride. WBR claims they are the only operator that goes out here. You can see how clear the water is from this video. Sea Turtle at Cakau Lekaleka Atoll, Fiji

As a side note, the staff pulled a prank on Jamie during the surface interval that had a direct effect on the divers, which I think they took too far and disrespected her. That really bothered me.

Package Pricing: Seven nights at VV was $2615 ($373.57 per night); five nights at WBR was $2073.00 + $60 for Nitrox totaling $2133 ($426.60 per night). My package at WBR included a visit to Yanuca Island with a picnic lunch on one of the dive days, which I never got. When I mentioned it to Beth, she did nothing about it or offered compensation or a solution.

Coming Home. I flew from Nadi to DFW on a direct flight with Fiji Airways using American Airlines miles for business class. I spent the night at DFW before flying home to Portland, Oregon.

Final Thoughts. VV is an all-around wonderful dive resort. From the accommodation, the staff, the food, the diving, the healthy reefs, and the overall vibe, I really enjoyed my second visit. I was very disappointed in WBR and it’s just too expensive for what you get. I wonder if it being for sale has any impact on the understaffing or quality of cooks they’re getting to work there. Note that both resorts as well as most of Fiji charge credit card fees of 3%.

Overall Summary. So, this concludes my trip reports of 66 days of dive travel. I got in 105 dives and crossed the 600- and 700-dive mark. This was a complex vacation that spanned four countries, flying on nine airlines, staying in a dozen hotels, resorts, and a liveaboard. No vacation is perfect, but overall, it went smoothly. I had no lost or delayed luggage, no cancelled flights, and no significant delays. I had built in lots of time for layovers and rest between locations. With the exception of coming home with stomach issues, I remained healthy and injury-free. I dived conservatively, kept hydrated and nourished, and enjoyed meeting new people and experiencing different cultures.

Feel free to ask any questions.
 

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Nice report. I've always heard pretty consistently decent-to-good things about Volivoli, so good to hear you had a good time there. Sounds pretty similar to my experience years ago at Wananavu Resort (currently being rebuilt) just east of Volivoli on the same peninsula. Both much bigger and more crowded resorts than I currently favor, but you get access to the Bligh dive sites which are great.

Waidroka Bay Resort sounded like a complete disaster. Hopefully somebody else buys it and rehabs it completely. I can understand some smaller resorts like that maybe not having the greatest food or more rustic rooms, but when their dive staff (8:1 guest-to-DM ratio WTF) and the operations as a whole are also sub-par that's no good. Clearly whoever owns it just doesn't care.
 
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