FIJI...BLOG...&...PLEA FOR HELP!

[Dive California]

I just retured from FIJI and wanted to share my experiences with you...I find these helpful when I'm looking to travel...I hope this might assist some of you, and or be entertaining...enjoy...

FIJI-2005:

Pre-Trip Planning:

After researching the internet, including ScubaBoard, I came across a live-aboard that I might be happy with and my non-diving spouse might be happy with: www.tuitai.com . On ScubaBoard, I read “Uncle Pug Goes To Fiji” at www.scubaboard.com/showthread.php?t=78292 . I modeled this blog after Uncle Plug’s, his started in October, 2004 and is an adventure that explores various dive opportunities for anybody that is contemplating a trip to Fiji. A must read.

My spouse enjoys snorkeling and traveling to non-tourist destination and has always been accommodating with my diving enthusiasm, making Tui Tai Adventure Cruises a logical decision. We decided on doing one of the combination sea/land tours, the “Active Spa Package.” This should make both of us happy.

The Tui Tai is a 140-foot sailing schooner based in Savusavu, Fiji. “Tui Tai” translates into “chief from another place.” The ship is equipped with kayaks, mountain bikes, dive gear and compressor.

The United States representative for the Tui Tai Adventure Cruises is Wendy Pacofsky (wendy@otadventures.com) at Outdoor Travel Adventures (www.OTAdventures.com) in San Diego, California, (877) 682-5433. Wendy is a wonderful friendly person who will work closely with you to find the perfect vacation, she’s also a diver/instructor.

Did some research on ScubaBoard (www.scubaboard.com) on Fiji and learned that the custom when visiting small villages is to bring the village a gift. I found this great thread: www.scubaboard.com/showthread.php?t=106856, which discussed this issue. So, with only one week to go, I went shopping for school supplies, given the timing of school having just begun here in Southern California. The items are very heavy and together with my dive gear…wow…but it is only one way…and it’ll leave room for gifts on the return ticket.

Day One & Two (September 17-18, 2005):

Knowing this will be a really long day, I began by setting my watch to Fijian Time two days ago, to allow me to begin adjusting to the time change. Lucked out, empty flight, so we each and a row to spread out and sleep.

Day Three (September 19, 2005):[/COLOR]

Bula! Or “welcome” in Fijian. Had a short lay over, walked from International terminal to Domestic, and grabbed some great strong Fijian coffee. This was the first place we got jammed with a surcharge for the extra weight on our luggage…$92 FD (Fijian Dollars). We jumped on a small puddle jumper, 19 seats, and all of our bags made it. Flew from Nadi to Savusavu, took about an hour. We then boarded the Tui Tai, along with a couple (John and Deanne) and a man from England (Peter). Peter was traveling around the world. John and Deanne were from Auckland, New Zealand. Already on board was Gavin, originally from Los Angeles, California, now living in Fiji with seven adopted kids, all from different mothers…wow! Gavin was taking one of his adopted sons on the first day of the cruise, which included a kayak trip up the Yanawai River. So we set off, for a short sail, jumped into kayaks and paddled up the river. We came across a small village, with people bathing in the river and cooling off. The Fijians are so friendly, perhaps the friendliest people on the planet.

Lunch was a middle-eastern selection and was very good.
In the afternoon, a couple (Joe and Janie) joined us. He’s Canadian and she’s British.
Dive One…not tired at all, ready for a dive. Golden Nuggets, four coral heads, two main heads, with white sand in-between. Large school of Brassy Trevally; Garden Eels; Red Lionfish; Long-fin Bannerfish; Blue-spotted Ray; Albino Ray; lots of Goatfish and Beche-De-Mer (Sea Cucumbers); and Giant Clams. Also should note, that on ever dive a myriad of reef fish, way to many to name were seen on ever dive in Fiji. The Dive Master (DM) from Tui Tai was a local from Rabi Island, Pete. This dive it was only the two of us, very nice. Also should be noted that there is a lot, and I mean a lot of coral damage, bleaching, in the waters off of the Northeastern Islands of Fiji. In 2003, Qamea took a direct hot, and the surrounding islands (where I’m diving) were all affected.

Dinner was Cajun food, again very good. While I was diving, everybody else went snorkeling at “The Lighthouse.” That evening was my first experience with Kava, the local drink made from the stem and roots of a local bush. The drink causes one to become numb and relaxed…the local joke is attend a Kava Party, and everybody starts off loud and the noise level mellows out during the evening…attend a party with alcohol and the party starts out quite and ends loud. To receive a couple of this mixture, you clap once and say “Bula”, drink the entire cup (a half of a small coconut shell), hand the bowl back and clap three times for thanks…and so the drinking goes, around and around. During this time the locals sing and play guitar. They are all great musicians and singers.

 

[Dive California]

Part 2:

Day Four (September 20, 2005):

Overnight we motored to Somosomo Island, and a couple from Australia joined us, Mel and Alex. Dive two…John joined me and the DM for a dive in the Somosomo Strait, known as the Great White Wall. The dive started by us going through a tubular cave with the entrance at around 30’ and the exit at about 80’. The walls are plastered with both soft and hard corals as well as colorful sponges and crinoids. The bottom was at about 200’. The visibility was at 120’ plus, and 86°. We could not ask for a nicer dive. The dive site got its name for the white soft coral covering the wall, however, the coral was just beginning to bloom and therefore was not at is maximum.

Saw a couple of large Napoleon Wrasses, or also known as Humphead Wrasses; a few Pufferfish; Giant Clams; Porcupinefish; Triggerfish and soft coral everywhere with sea whips.

After the dive we went snorkeling and then a visit to the village on Kioa Island. The Snorkel Guide, Philip, is from this village and arranged a visit. There are no Fijians on this island, it was sold to a village from the tiny coral island of Vaitupu in Tuvalu (formerly Ellice Island), as their home island suffered from poor soils and overcrowding. The village was saving money to build a new hospital and this island in Fiji became available for purchase, so the village elected to purchase it instead in 1947 for $15,000. They are the only Polynesians in Fiji. Their village is immaculately kept, with very strict rules in place. While we were there, the village was a buzz. Kids were either playing outside or singing in church. Teenagers and young adults were either playing Volleyball or Rugby (their main pastime events), and the older adults were tending to their gardens or sitting around talking with one another. Our group got a tour of the village, while John and I joined the locals in the Volleyball game. Some of the Fijian crew joined the villagers in the rugby game.

The school encouraged their kids to speak English; to not smoke; and to mind their elders. A major problem in Fiji, is smoking. The average income in Fiji is roughly $3,000 dollars, half of that is spend by the adult males on cigarettes.

Night Dive…at Black Magic; a reef off of Kioa and next to a channel, has a steep drop-off wall attracting larger fish during the incoming tides. The walls are decorated with healthy black corals. Visibility was as far as the light would shine. John and myself, along with DM Pete: saw a baby Blue-spotted Ribbontail Ray swimming; a large Star Puffer, and a Blackspotted Puffer; a Bicolor Parrotfish in its hole; a Lionfish eating; a Zebra Lionfish; Sea Cucumbers; a large Nocturnal Moon Snail, with an enormous foot.

Afterwards we returned to another Kava ceremony along with a wonderful Seafood Banquet.

Day Five (September 21, 2005):

At night we motored to the island of Taveuni, where we were boarded by Mark and Becky from England; and Ray and Vicki from Missouri. The group then went ashore for a mountain bike ride to the National Park and hike to the Bouma Waterfalls, while DM Pete and I went for a dive. Purple Wall dive site is an outer wall in the channel between Tavauni and Qamea Islands, dropping to over 200 feet. The wall is covered with purple soft coral and large gorgonian fans. The visibility was over 100’ with a very strong current; with lots of sea fans, nudibranchs, and staghorn corals. We saw: a small (4’) white-tip reef shark; a banded sea snake; Titan, blue and orange; a Picasso Triggerfish; Parrotfish; large Groupers, a Snubnosed and a Blacksaddle; and a small turtle. The coral was very damaged here, lots of bleaching.

After my dive, I went ashore with the two cooks. We first stopped off at the largest plantation on Fiji, and the largest pineapple growers (outside of Hawaii) in the South Pacific. The plantation is run by a couple from Denmark. We purchased pineapples for the boat and then drove to the National Park, where we hiked to the first waterfall. The others went to the second waterfall, there are three total, but the third was blocked from a landslide. The first waterfall was about a 15 minute hike, very flat. The second was another 45 minutes, straight up. We brought in lunch, “Roti-style Wraps” with curry chicken and vegetables. We met the group at the first fall, had lunch and a nice dip in the cool fresh water pool. After lunch, some rode their bikes back to the beach, the others drove back. After everybody was onboard, we motored across the channel to Qamea.

The group went on a snorkel trip, while Ray and I along with DM Pete went diving. Still Waters: a submerged reef with depths down to 100’. Predominantly a soft coral dive with arches and overhangs. The top was calm, as its name implied; however, the bottom was whipping with a very fast current. Saw a 4’ white-tip reef shark swimming; two baby white-tips in a small den, just circling inside; Moray Eel in a hole; and a Bullhead Parrotfish, these get big.

Afterwards we went ashore to the village of Togo; this is where the Captain is from. Kathy and I brought school gifts for the children and I presented them to the Chief, George. The Chief and his 2nd in command, took a liking to me and Mark (from England), and had us sit next to him during the Kava Ceremony. The women were separated from the men and sat towards the back. The Chief drinks Kava first, than the council…the village had five clans, which had different responsibilities. After the council drinks, then the visiting males, then the females. The first round was a weak small portion. The 2nd, 3rd, and I lost count after that, Mark and I drank with the Chief and councilmen. These portions were large, filled to the brim and strong. Mark and I did not want to refuse the offers from the Chief, so we took one for the group and drank…remember it was not that long ago these islanders were cannibals.

The 2nd in command had three sons and one daughter. His daughter married a man from Taveuni. One of his sons was a fisherman, another a farmer and the third was a teacher. The island kids go to primary school in the villages, and for secondary school they go to Taveuni, in a boarding school. There are three high schools in Taveuni for the northern islands. The college and university are in Suva, the capital. In school, all the kids first learn Fijian and their local language; there are over three hundred local languages in Fiji. Then the kids all learn English, they must pass an English test to move into secondary school. Education is very important to the Fijians and almost everybody speaks English, so that is three languages that everybody speaks, and many speak other languages given their number one income is tourism.

Dinner back onboard was an Aussie BBQ with a local flare; roasted pumpkin.

Day Six (September 22, 2005):

At night we sailed out, across to the Ringgold Islands. It was very rough, our first indication that a large storm was a brewing. We went to Cobia (pronounce the “C” with a “Th” sound). This atoll is a sunken volcanic crater, so it is crescent shape. The main group went kayaking around the inside of the crater. I, John and Ray, along with DM Pete, went on our morning dive. However, first we circled the inside of the crater in our zodiac. The island is inhabited by humans, wild goats are there, hundreds, and they have eaten everything on the ground and most of the leaves on the lower branches. Soon they will become diseased and start dying off, because there is nothing else to eat. Three-quarters of the way around, Pete clapped his hands and thousand of large fruit bats came out of the trees and circled us. They were enormous.

Kokoda Point; a narrow passage into the Ringgold Islands, about one mile offshore. A wall dive with: crystal clear visibility (150’ plus) and a dramatic drop-off. The zodiac ride was very rough. A large, very large, Dogtooth Tuna (with large teeth) circled me and got very close; numerous white-tip reef sharks, all sizes; large cod; large groupers; parrotfish; triggerfish; and a large school of anchovies. A fantastic dive.

Lunch was Mexican-style fish burritos. Water became so rough, we lifted anchor and went a short distance to the next island, Vanuca, also apart of the Ringgold Islands. Here, the group went for another kayak ride, while Ray and I went with DM Pete for another wild ride in the zodiac to the outside reef wall. This was almost 2 miles out, an unnamed site which I will call the Yanuca-Cobia Passage: the visibility was 100’ plus; immediately saw three large Manta Rays; Giant Trevally, two of them; many trumpetfish; Regal Angelfish; Bannerfish; Tangs; Clark’s Anemonefish, and floating attached Squid Eggs.

Dinner was Italian; lasagna and spaghetti. A large storm came in, we attempted to go to our destination, Koro Island, however we had to go out into the open ocean in the Koro Seas and it was too rough. The Captain elected to go to Laucala Island, also known as Forbes Island which was owned by Malcolm Forbes. His estate just sold it to the owners of Red Bull and they have plans to build it into a resort. The rains have come and it poured.

 

[Dive California]

Part 3:

Day Seven (September 23, 2005):

The morning dive was at Timothy’s Terrace; last dive on this trip, since I’m flying tomorrow. John and Ray dove, along with Alex…his first dive in four years. Initially dropped down into a school of Bluestreak Fusiliers…these must be the national fish, because there are everywhere, but I have not seen such a large school before today; a 6’ white-tip reef shark; Dogtooth Tuna; Napoleon Wrasses, one was in a cave and I got an up close view of him; very large Parrotfish; Triggerfish; Longfin Idol; and many clown fish.

We went ashore mountain biking to the top, got completely covered in mud, head to toe. Dinner was cooked ashore in a traditional Lovo-style meal, cooked with hot rocks in the ground; pork, chicken, taro root and leaves, and plantains. Motored back to port in very huge waves, so rough many got sick.

Day Eight (September 24, 2005):

In the morning we left the boat and went to the airport at Savusavu, for an “E-ticket” ride to Taveuni. Also onboard were Luis and Linda from Simi Valley, California; and Franco and Mira, from Milan, Italy. The six of us landed and went for a 20 kilometers ride through the jungle to a beach landing (the same one we landed on while on the Tui Tai trip). Here we got picked up for a short, but rough, boat trip to Qamea Beach Club. Wow! We stepped up to a different (5 star) world. The Tui Tai was nice, but rough…the boat is getting old and needs lots of work. We had the one and only luxury room aboard, and it was still roughing it…the Bure at the Qamea Beach Resort, (www.qamea.com) was first class, so nice. Within walking distance to the beach, and we (I thing it was a sign from the Gods) were closest to the dive shop. We were greeted by a welcome drink (no diving this day) and a wonderful lunch of Vietnamese Chicken Salad and a Seafood Pizza.

The food is all “first rate” here, great chef. The Executive Chef, Michele Campbell, who has worked in Sydney, London, and Auckland. There are also six full-time Fijian Chefs. The cuisine can be best described as South Pacific Rim, which is similar to California Cuisine. All of the fruits and vegetables are grown organically, and if not from their own gardens are flown in three times a week from New Zealand. All of the seafood is local, caught daily by two Qamea fishermen.

Went snorkeling and saw a 5’ white-tip reef shark and a yellow trumpetfish…never seen one of these before.

Before dinner we were entertained by people from the local Waibula Village in a traditional Meke Dance. The Meke is the traditional way of passing history and legends of one generation to another through song and dance, prior to the written language. Typical Meke songs and dance depict the journey the Fijian ancestors took across the big ocean in search of a homeland, as well as significant battles. Some of the Meke depicts ancestral witchcraft and legends of ghosts.

Dinner started with a either a chilled Papaya & Ginger soup; or a Mushroom Ravioli in a cream sauce with coriander and chili, garnished with parmesan. The entrée choice was either the sauté of New Zealand Seafood with straw vegetables and soy ginger Beurre Blanc; or the Chicken Kiev on potato gratin and snow-peas with garlic wine sauce. Dessert was Coconut Cream Pie. That would be one of everything…and share.

Day Nine (September 25, 2005):

Breakfast was anything you wanted, cooked to order…every morning. If you wanted you could have the meal (any meal) delivered to your bure, the beach, or anywhere else you wanted.

The DM here was Richard, from New Zealand. First dive here was at The Rock, a reef in the channel between Taveuni and Qamea, closer to Qamea, with a large “rock” sticking out from the surface. DM Richard said that there were not many divers here, mostly Americans on their honeymoon, so they were not interested in diving, better for me. The two of us went out; Spotted Sweetlips; large school of Fusilier; a 6’ white-tip reef shark; three Barred Sharpnose Puffer; many Trumpetfish; sea fans and sea whips everywhere; and a large bed of soft coral, the locals call “magic coral,” it is dark in color and when you touch it, it turns white.

While I was diving my wife went to church at another local village, Naiviivi Village, with everybody else. I really wanted to see a church service. This village was Catholic and everybody sat on a woven mat. The church was situated up on a hill, in a beautiful setting and quite a moving experience. The service was in Fijian and the majority of which was beautiful choir and congregation singing.

Lunch started with a salad of lettuce, feta and olives with Balsamic Vinegar. Than a choice of either Char-grilled Catch of the Day on chilled vegetables with roasted garlic and limes; or an open sandwich of roasted beef, chard vegetables, onion marmalade and mustard dressing.

The second dive was with a couple from Australia, Karen and Simon. Karen’s regulator didn’t work, so she sat out, and Simon’s BC had a leak, so his dive was cut short…so, again, it was DM Richard and I. Still Waters…did this already on the Tui Tai…different conditions this time, rougher and cloudy. Lots of Napoleon Wrasses, about fourteen of them; school of you guessed it…Fusulier…a school of at least 200, Gold-banded Fusilier; a few Painted Rock Lobsters, small…which brings me to a strong point here: Fiji is in serious trouble…they have to fishing regulations and their fish/shellfish are disappearing. The Japanese are a major problem, along with the Tourist in general…the locals will take anything, any-size, any-time. They will take female lobster with eggs! Speaking with the DMs and the people who have been coming here for years, have all said that the amount of fish, shellfish, sea cucumbers are all getting “fished out.” Soon there will be very little to see and eat.

Before dinner the owners, Brice and Ron, threw a wine-tasting of wines from New Zealand. Brice is from New Zealand and owned restaurants before; and Ron is from Seattle and was an attorney. Together they owned a resort in Hawaii, Mexico, and in New Zealand.

Dinner was a myriad of Indo-Fijian dishes, from mild to spicy. Many different kinds of curries.

Day Ten (September 26, 2005):

Morning dive with DM Richard, raining, still very stormy, we went to the outer reef to “The Caves.” A series of caves and swim-thrus; three caves between 15-20’ and a swim-thru at the end. Again, this site shows a lot of damage to the reef from the 2003 storm. One Moray Eel; lots of shrimp; couple of painted lobsters; schools of Fusilier and Barracuda; lots of Trumpetfish; lizardfish; two spotted Sweetlips.

Second morning dive, at “The Fans,” covered with lots of large Gorgonian Sea Fans. This reef is also covered with soft coral and lots of Anemones with Anemone fish (clownfish) galore. Again, lots of rain…the water was much warmer than the air. Also saw: two Napoleon Wrasses; two white-tip reef sharks, 5 and 6 feet; schools of Fusilier and Gold-lined Sea Bream; Goatfish; Giant Star Pufferfish; Sunset Wrasse; Pink and Two-band Anemone fish. DM Richard had become friends with one of the two-band Anemone fish, and it allowed him to pet it…so I approached and the damn thing attacked my finger…wild! DM Richard was swimming ahead of me and felt something tug at his leg (he was wearing a 3mm wetsuit). He thought it was me, trying to get his attention, so he turned. A Featherstar had attached itself to his leg…these are wild looking creatures…the closest thing in-between an animal and a plant. The have legs that all move independently and have like Velcro on all sides of their legs. I took a picture, than picked him off of Richard’s leg…I had thin gloves on and it was now attached to my hand…after a few more minutes I was able to shake it off.

While I was diving, my wife went with the rest of the guest from the resort to the local village, for a tour. Unfortunately it was raining so hard, school was canceled. They still got to tour the school, homes and met many villagers. My wife presented the remaining school supplies we had brought to the village elders. We brought: pencil; paper; coloring books; coloring crayons; flash cards (multiplication and addition); pencil sharpeners; band-aids; and many other supplies.

Lunch again started with a salad: of greens and cucumbers, with a Balsamic dressing. Than a choice of either vegetarian Char-grilled open sandwich with olive oil, sun-dried tomatoes, olives, garnished with onion marmalade; or a Pastrami Salad, with roasted capsicum, cheese, and fruit chutney.

I did a night dive, with Luis and DM Richard. There was no current as we went along a wall, near the shore; Nuku Bay. Saw eight Parrotfish inside their mucus webbing in holes along the wall, what a wild sight…first time for me to see them like this, as they slept…I could hear them saying…”you don’t see me, you don’t see me.” Saw lots of Squirrelfish; a large Stone crab that made me so hungry; featherstars; and a Spotted Porcupinefish.

Dinner was a choice of Cream of Stilton and Champagne Soup; or a Chicken Ballotine (French for meat that has been boned, stuffed, rolled and tied in the shape of a bundle. It is then braised or roasted, can be searved hot or cold) with Avocado and Tomato Salsa. Entrée was a choice of the Catch of the Day (which I always leaned towards) pan-fried and served with potato gratin, greens, and sun-dried tomato butter; or New Zealand lamb loin coated in mustard, oven baked, served on potato gratin, greens and eggplant chutney. Dessert was homemade apple pie with ice cream.

 

[Dive California]

Part 4-Final:

Day Eleven (September 27, 2005):

Last day here, before jumping on another plane, so I only did two morning dives. DM Richard, Luis and a new couple from Reno, joined me for these two dives. Fish Patch: a reef with a short wall, closer to the island of Taveuni. This site has lots of fish, hence its name: Painted Lobsters; a puffer at a cleaning station, having his gills cleaned; Porcupine fish and the largest Moray Eel I’ve seen on this trip, inside a cave; and of course the school of Fusilier.

Lunch started with a marinated salad of tomato, cucumber and red onions. Followed by a choice of marinated Sirloin Beef in coriander, mint and lemongrass with salad greens; or an Antipasto platter with seafood, cold cuts, cheese, olives, roasted vegetables, breads and dips.

The afternoon dive we went back to Purple Wall. A slight current was running. Saw: a 5’ white-tip reef shark swimming and a 3’ inside a cave, right before we got to the “Purple Wall;” a large Star Puffer; a large Pallid Trigger with a Remora attached to it; Painted Lobster; and a Moray Eel.

My wife went snorkeling and saw a baby white-tip reef shark; recently born the snorkel guide said…he was still transparent. They also saw a small turtle.

The afternoon, I played volleyball with the locals…so much fun, and these guys are good. Dinner started with either a choice of Pumpkin and Coconut Soup with a hint of Curry; or Tempura Prawns with soy, chili and ginger dipping sauces. That was followed by either Fresh Catch of the Day, char-grilled with lime caper butter sauce and potato croquets; or pan-fried chicken breast with Cajun Spices, basil cream sauce, greens and potato croquets. Dessert was a Peppered Pineapple Flambé.

Day Twelve (September 28, 2005):

In the morning, I went snorkeling with my wife and followed a 4’ white-tip reef shark around. Sometimes the snorkeling seemed better than (or as good as) the diving.

We departed Qamea, it was still raining, another “E-ticket” ride. We landed at Savusavu, five minutes for refueling, than off again for Nadi. Arrived in Nadi and got a taste of a different experience…little India. We decided to stay at a hotel here (Tanoa International Hotel-near the Nadi airport www.tanoahotels.com/international/index.cfm), so we could experience the Hindi-Fijian culture; to tour the wonderful orchid garden; and to relax prior to our long flight back home.

Upon arrival to our hotel, which appeared beautiful on the surface…in reality…the carpet stunk of musk; no hot water; Jacuzzi did not work; sauna did not work; and a drunken lady two doors down, who cried all night long because the airlines denied her access to her flight because she was intoxicated and sent her back to the hotel. We immediately caught a cab and went downtown to scope it out and possibly do some shopping. Everybody said to go to Jack’s Shop in Nadi for handcrafted wares (www.jacksfiji.com). Unfortunately, it was just closing, so we had to return the next day. A quick walk up and down the streets of Nadi and we felt like we were in downtown Mumbai, India. We had decided to eat at the most written up restaurant in Fiji, “The Chefs Restaurant”. I had the owner of the Qamea Beach Club call up and make reservation for us, so when we arrived at the restaurant, they thought we were the owners of the resort and the workers apologized that their owner was out of the country and we got lavished with incredible service and continued apologies throughout our meal. We both went for their signature dish; Snapper with Grilled Prawns…wow! Went back to our room, turned on the television (for the first time on our trip) and got caught up on all the problems in the world and United States, including Hurricane Rita, which had passed without our knowledge).

Day Thirteen (September 29, 2005):

Woke up and immediately made arrangements for a guided tour with Coral Sun Day Tours (www.coralsunfiji.com.fj). Our main intention was to get to the orchid garden, so we elected to do their Coast, Country & Orchid tour. We ended up being the only people on the tour, so it was a driver, the guide and us. The tour included; a visit to the first village in Fiji, Viseisei, also the home of the President of Fiji, the Chief of Viseisei. It is the legendary landing site of the first Fijians. We went to the second largest city in Fiji, Lautoka, home of the largest sugar mill in the South Pacific. We got to see them cutting, and bundling the cane onto trains. Our guide then took us to the local market, where he pointed out the various different produce and even purchase some local foods for us to try. We went for a quick tour of the neighborhoods around town, pointing out the various different cultures and ethnicities living in Lautoka. The entire time it just poured buckets of rain on us. The highlight of the tour was the orchid garden; Garden of the Sleeping Giant was once owned by film star Raymond Burr. The garden lays at the base of a mountain that appears to be a sleeping giant on its side, hence the name. This is Fiji’s largest collection of orchids. Afterwards, because we were the only guest, they offered to take us to the town of Nadi for some shopping. This was a nice gesture, which saved us the fare of a cab ride from our hotel. Again, the Fijians are so friendly, perhaps the friendliest people on the earth…really!

After shopping, which was exhausting, went back to the hotel to relax. Drinks, food, and more rain, than a trip to the airport and off we went…back to the United States.

If I thought Day One was long, I wasn’t thinking about this day. This will probably be the longest day of my life, since I’ve repeating part of the day by crossing over the International Date Line.

In summary, my biggest concerns are for Fiji’s future…given the pace of their appetite for taking from the seas…for their own consumption and to sell to the buyers abroad (especially the Japanese), I fear their will be little sea life soon. First their food source will disappear, than the tourism will dwindle. The government needs to educate, establish regulations, and enforce the regulations…now! Make their waters a preserve and protect what they have now, before they lose it all.

In conclusion…let me say this about Fiji and the diving their: Even though the weather was awful (wet and cool) it was still beautiful; the locals were all wonderful, kind, and always had a smile on their faces; the water was always warm; the visitors were all friendly; and the food was great…however; Fiji is in serious trouble…if they do not immediately change they ways. They need to enact marine laws right away. Make everything within their reefs a National Preserve. Educate the local people about marine conservation. Limit the fishing and shellfish takes…by season, sex, and size. I did not see a single octopus or sea urchin. I only saw a few sea cucumbers, turtles, moray eels, lobsters, and large fish. The first thing to go will be their food supply, within a couple of years…this will then be followed by a decline in tourism…please change you ways, so you and everybody else can enjoy the beauty of your wonderful islands.
Ni sa moce!

 

[Doc Intrepid]

I enjoyed your post, thanks for taking the time.

Doc

 

[Uncle Pug]

Bula California Diver.... and Vinaka for your wonderful posts! Nice for me to relive some of my experiences from last fall.

 

[Dive California]

Update...just heard from Wendy...US Contact for the Tui Tai...she just confirmed that they are planning a long overhaul/reburb project early next year...good news of the "hard to please Americans" out there....private baths for all accommodations.