I returned to Sharm in Jan 2010 after a 5 year lapse and I wasn't sure what to expect. I'd heard all kinds of things. 'Too crowded now', 'dead coral everywhere', 'no marine life', etc.
Arriving, I was exhausted after coming off a very long transatlantic flight and change at Cairo, but the new gleaming airport worked great. Remember the old military one and mounds of luggage everywhere?
A beer in a bar as the sun came down over the desert... worth the distance travelled. and the next day's dives in Tiran were excellent, a classic Red Sea wall: warm, excellent deep blue vis and healthy coral. Eagle ray swimming below us. The day boat was well organised, well briefed, the sea conditions were totally benign (by open ocean standards). It was a typical well-run setup.
The liveaboard for the next week was a bit run-down, could use a lick of paint. But certainly not crowded by other boats, we were the only one on the Thistlegorm, which, let's face it, can be a scrum at times. But compared to wedging myself in a corner of a cramped saloon, or decoing with 6 people at the last stop, it was luxury.
It's easy to forget what an incredible location Sharm has at the top of the Sinai with wrecks nearby and marine life. And easy to forget how challenging conditions can be elsewhere.
No serious currents - by which I mean no ripping tides, no clipping into a down line in 1-2 knots of ocean current, wondering how you'll find the strength to get back on the boat. No serious waves - no flying across the back of the boat as the skipper takes an 8ft on the bow, fighting to keep your breakfast down. No huddling in the warm wheelhouse after freezing in your dry suit. No peering through 3 ft of murk wondering: where did I put my reel?
You can go lots of places in the world for warm water, and there are fly-by-night operators (and good ones) everywhere. But few areas rival the Red Sea for sheer choice of good safe diving. Who cares if you have to share sites with a few people?
And the sharks won't touch you underwater so long as you stay awake and don't do anything daft like spearfish or feed fish. You're not going to get lost, you're not going to get bent and you're not going to get hypothermia.
There's 2ft of snow outside and I'm looking forward to my relaxing trip to the pyramids and Red Sea in Feb!
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