Fakarava advice needed

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phoenix, az
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I am having a really tough time trying to decide how to plan our trip to Fakarava. Family of four, no more than 15-20 dives at an experience level of OW. We have three full days we can dive. I cannot determine whether we should stay in the north and dive two days in the north and one day in the south with O2. Or, if we will be limited in what we can see in the north because our lack of experience means we cannot dive deep or do the dives with strong currents. Of course, we want to see the shark wall! Are we better off staying at Tetamanu and only diving south in the south pass? It is even more confusing because the reviews of Tetamanu are not great.

We will be there over the XMAS holiday.

Any help, suggestions, advice is much appreciated.
 
Trying to answer a few of your questions as well as give you my perspectives.

North Fakarava has 3 main dive sites: the Garuae Pass, which is the main attraction and which is dived only with the incoming current; and the two sloping wall dives on the outside (the ocean side) on each side of the mouth of the pass, which are usually dived when the current is outgoing.

When diving Garuae Pass with the incoming current, most operators start in the blue, drift and stop at the mouth of the pass, maybe drift a bit to make another intermediate stop, and then drift with the current until they arrive at Ali-Baba. I would describe Ali-Baba as a valley or depression inside the Garuae Pass. It is usually full of life, with big schools of fish, sharks, and Napoleon Wrasses. When it is good, you could easily spend a whole dive there. That is why some dive operators offer Ali-Baba as a separate divesite in of itself.

I am not counting lagoon dives as options: they are not what you fly all the way there to dive. I did it once when the weather was really, really bad.

As has been mentioned already, you can dive the Tumakohua or South Pass of Fakarava while staying in the North but only if they have enough people (minimum 4, I think) to make a run to the South. Would I do it? Absolutely!!! The pass here is much narrower so the sharks tend to be less spread out, altho there are times when I have seen densely packed schools of Grey Reefs in the North as well. But what I often see in the South Pass but seldom see in the North are Silvertips and Oceanic Black Tips mixed in with the Grey Reefs. On the other hand, I have seen Great Hammers in the North Pass but yet in the South.

Lastly, some operators offer trips to Toau, which is the next atoll north of Fakarava, but that is an ocean crossing so the water conditions must be favorable. And it also requires a minimum number of divers.

Kaina Plongée, which is the operator I've done all my diving with in the North dating back to when it was Fakarava Diving Center, does offer trips to Toau. I don't know about the others. Would I do it? Only as a change of scenery: there are two passes there not too far from each other. But, in my opinion, you are not going to see anything different - same sharks, same fish, maybe a manta.

That pretty much covers the divesite options that you will be offered when diving with a North Fakarava operator.

In Rangiroa, not counting lagoon dives, there are basically three divesites in all: Tiputa Pass, the sloping wall on the outside and to the right as the boat comes out the pass, and Avatoru Pass. I've done only done Avatoru twice in 7 trips.

I've dived Tiputa Pass both with the incoming and the outgoing current, so two different ways of diving the pass. But incoming is best because the viz and the marine life are so much better.

A variation on the third divesite that at least Raie Manta Club - the operator I use - does is to drop in the blue in an area where fishermen used to dump the remains of the fish they caught. this is mostly to see sharks. The dive then continues on the sloping wall.

And that pretty much covers the divesite options you will be offered when diving in Rangiroa.

I trust that this addresses your concern about being able to dive the best spot. It's not like there are that many divesites to choose from. To most, the best spot is diving the pass with the incoming current. If the conditions are normal, you usually get to dive it once in a day, and on a rare occasion twice, if they time it such that the second dive is done while the current is still coming in.

It doesn't mean that the outside wall dives are bad. My best dolphin encounters of the tummy rub variety in Rangiroa have mostly been out there rather than in the pass.

June is a busy month for a couple of reasons: in South Fakarava, the annual Marbled Grouper spawning occurs on the full moon of either June or July and sometimes both. That is a spectacle in of itself before you add the increased number of sharks that show up to feast. In Rangiroa, it is Grey Reef mating season.

I have not stayed in any of the North Fakarava pensions that you mentioned. In the past I have stayed at Havaiki, Pension Tokerau, and Pension Kori-Kori. All were pretty good, but Havaiki stands out as the best.

Not trying to be sarcastic but Fakarava North is any place that isn't South, because there is really nothing in between.

Likewise, I have not stayed at any of the Rangiroa lodgings that you mentioned. I've heard good things about Bounty from a friend who stayed there. The places I have stayed at are Raira Lagon and Teina et Marie. Raira Lagon is nice. Teina et Marie, as well as it sister pension next door, Pension Glorine, are OK - better suited for the frugal-minded (like me): a bit on the rustic side. But staying there means that I am 150 ft away from my dive shop, and about 3 minutes from Chez Lily (see below). Teina et Marie is one of those that also communicates thru FB.

Most pensions offer a half-board meal option, which is breakfast and dinner. Lunch is on your own. In Rangiroa, I usually have lunch at Chez Lily, which is next to the dock. And when I do not feel like a heavy lunch, there is another "Snack" up the road heading west, about 12-15 minutes from the dock, that serves decent subs. A "Snack" could be described as a small cafe. There are also a couple of foodstores 5 minutes away from the dock.

I've encountered mosquitoes every time I've gone - whether January, February, April, June or October. Most places have mosquito nets or screened windows. Having AC or a good breeze helps.

In North Fakarava, there is just the one main village called Rotoava but there are a few small "Snacks" furtehr away from the village center. For example, there are two that are close to Pension Kori-Kori, which is also near Pension Veke-Veke.

In Rangiroa, you could say that the village of Tiputa is split in two by the Pass, with the west side being where the dock is, and where most of the hotels and pensions are, and the east side being where thevillage schools, churches, etc. are. And then there is the village of Avatoru further west, past the airport.

Currents vary. Sometimes they can be mask-ripping currents. Sometimes they are mild. And sometimes there isn't any incoming current if the lagoon is overflowing with water.
 
June is a busy month for a couple of reasons: in South Fakarava, the annual Marbled Grouper spawning occurs on the full moon of either June or July and sometimes both. That is a spectacle in of itself before you add the increased number of sharks that show up to feast. In Rangiroa, it is Grey Reef mating season.
Thanks so much. Your reply is extremely helpful, and i may return to other parts of it soon, but wanna jump on this. I was planning to leave July 2. Apparently full moon is July 3. Should I stay on till July 4? How to catch this?
 
Gonna talk about timing and expectations, so sorry to bore you some more, but tighten your seatbelt, if you will.

Timing: I think that if you leave the States on the 2nd as you have planned, you will not arrive into Fakarava until the 3rd at best, and that is provided Air Tahiti, the domestic airline, flies from Papeete to Fakarava on the 3rd, which falls on a Monday. Usually they do but that is subject to change at their whim. And if you arrive on the 3rd, your first day of diving will be on the 4th. In my opinion, based on my one time of doing this, that is OK to see a lot of sharks but too late to see the mass of groupers.

Some historical bits of data: In 2021 when I did it, the full moon was on June 25th. I arrived on June 18th in Tetamanu (South Fakarava), dove the morning of the 19th and the groupers were already there. They were in an area they call The Rose, within swimming distance from the pass, which is where the Wall of Sharks is typically seen. We are talking about probably >10,000 groupers for as far as I could see in every direction (and viz there is at least 150 ft). They covered an area probably the size of a football field at about 80 ft depth. They were there every morning without fail.

After the early morning spawning on the 25th, we did a second dive at mid-morning and even then, the groupers were still there, and in numbers that appeared to most of us to be more than we had seen in earlier days. Maybe after all that wanton fornicating, while surviving roving teeth, they needed a rest. By the next morning, tho, most had migrated back into the depths of the lagoon. Th eons still around had relocated and were hanging around in the pass.

And that is why I think that if the spawn were to occur on July 3rd this year, then July 4th might be too late.

In 2022, full moon fell on June 14 and July 14. My friends chose July 14th, arrived in Tetamanu about 5 days earlier……..and got skunked, ie, no aggregation.

Which then brings us to 2023, with full moon on July 3rd. Will it happen on June 3rd or July 3rd or both? If my crystal ball were that good, I would have been a career sports bettor. Hopefully your crystal ball is better.

Now, let's talk Expectations: if your expectations are to witness the actual spawning and the carnage/massacre that ensues, and if we base it on what I learned from my one time there, you need to be in the water before daybreak, while it is still dark (maybe around 5:30am), with an outgoing current and resulting so-so viz. Mother Nature also decided that to improve the chances of survival of the species, the outgoing current needs to be at close to its strongest to sweep the fertilized eggs into the open ocean. So, all in all, not exactly the most appealing of dive conditions.

I don't know if any of the North Fakarava operators make the trek down there, because it means leaving the North at 3:00-3:30am, in order to be there for the spawning. You might wish to ask.

Otherwise, there are only two ways to witness the spawning: one is to stay in Tetamanu - which I think goes against your current leanings to stay up North. After all, with only 3 days on each island, it is impractical to split those three days in Fakarava into 1-2 day stays between the South and the North.

The other way is by liveaboard, assuming that they are planning to go there. There are at least three that I know of: Aquatiki, which has two boats, and the Itemata. But these liveaboards usually do cruises that are at least one-week long, which wouldn't work with your current plans. I should also add that by now, there is a good likelihood that both Tetamanu and the liveaboards are booked solid for those dates. There are also a couple of yellow flags that I would need to tell you about if you were to try for the Tetamanu stay because even tho I stayed there for a week, out of maybe 50 divers who were there, only a few got to see the actual spawning and I wasn’t one of them.

On the other hand, if your expectations are to do a daytrip south and be happy to just see the football field of groupers, then I would encourage you to ask the North Fakarava operator of your choice if they might be planning a trip down there on the 2nd or 3rd……..assuming that they still have availability.
 
Timing: I think that if you leave the States on the 2nd as you have planned,
[...]
On the other hand, if your expectations are to do a daytrip south and be happy to just see the football field of groupers, then I would encourage you to ask the North Fakarava operator of your choice if they might be planning a trip down there on the 2nd or 3rd……..assuming that they still have availability.
Thanks again for the great info!! I grok it all. Slight misunderstanding, tho. I arrive Fakarava on 28 June and first date of diving therefore 29 June. Plan was to dive 3 days, with last day diving 1 July. I have the opportunity -- pending checking dive op and pension availability -- to stay so last day of diving is 3 July. So my question: will staying to dive 2 July and 3 July be worth the extension? Or will I just as likely to see the football field of groupers on 29 June, 30 June, and 1 July (assuming the spawning to occur circa July 3).

Edit: FYI, FDC (Kaine Plongee) says they don't even try for "the event" cuz it's too crazy out there (boats, divers). But they do plan a trip to south on my second day (June 30), and that is likely to hit the aggregation (the grouper will be "already there" from early June). Also he says the spawning could happen anytime within the week prior to the full moon.

Conclusion: not really necessary to extend my dates.
 
I see. When I read that you were "planning to leave on July 2", I thought that was from the US. Sorry.

Again, I can only go by the one time I was there to do the groupers and on that occasion, they were already there at least a full week before the full moon. And the spawning did occur on full moon day as had been predicted. But I guess anything is possible in Nature.

I am glad that you were able to get the trip south booked, and hopefully a place to sleep as well. Good luck.
 
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