Fakarava advice needed

[dietcoke60]

I am having a really tough time trying to decide how to plan our trip to Fakarava. Family of four, no more than 15-20 dives at an experience level of OW. We have three full days we can dive. I cannot determine whether we should stay in the north and dive two days in the north and one day in the south with O2. Or, if we will be limited in what we can see in the north because our lack of experience means we cannot dive deep or do the dives with strong currents. Of course, we want to see the shark wall! Are we better off staying at Tetamanu and only diving south in the south pass? It is even more confusing because the reviews of Tetamanu are not great.

We will be there over the XMAS holiday.

Any help, suggestions, advice is much appreciated.

 

[btscott]

There is reef and lots to see in the north. Preferred it to the south. 1 or 2 dives in the south should suffice. I dove with O2 and enjoyed my time with them. They will look after you well. I would not recommend Tetamanu. Dive guides are inexperienced. I've heard of recent problems with management. Wished I'd stayed in the North and did a day trip to South. Instead I did 3 days in each.

 

[runsongas]

rather than staying south, consider just paying the extra fee for the longer boat ride to dive the south pass with dive spirit

 

[dietcoke60]

There is reef and lots to see in the north. Preferred it to the south. 1 or 2 dives in the south should suffice. I dove with O2 and enjoyed my time with them. They will look after you well. I would not recommend Tetamanu. Dive guides are inexperienced. I've heard of recent problems with management. Wished I'd stayed in the North and did a day trip to South. Instead I did 3 days in each.

OK! I will. I am holding a room in the north. I was just concerned that all our diving would be better in the south only. But yes, the reviews of Tetamanu have told me to be wary. Do you have a preferred dive shop in Rangiroa? So many to choose from....

 

[dietcoke60]

rather than staying south, consider just paying the extra fee for the longer boat ride to dive the south pass with dive spirit

How long ago did you dive with Dive Spirit? I can use the Te Moana pass with them and save some money but it looks online like O2 may be the best dive shop there?

 

[btscott]

In Rangiroa, I went with 6 Passengers. They were okay, kind of the "cool kids" place. Have heard better things about Y AKA and wished I'd dove with them.

 

[gajahduduk]

Hijacking this thread! I'll be interested to hear the report of the OP. The OP is right -- it's very difficult to feel confident about choices to make in Fakarava and Rangiroa. Accommodations tend not to have web sites, or if they do, just facebook, or poor or no pictures or information. Few if any have listings on major booking sites, so you must email them all directly.

If you've never been like me, it's hard to have any sense of where to stay, north or south, off the "main" islands or not, lagoon or ocean side, etc. The islands look small but people talk as if it matters a great deal which end to stay on. Comments?

Before I pull the trigger on these options, It'd be great if anyone could raise any red or green flags. (Lots already booked for my June trip so limited choices)

Fakarava
Dive Op: Kaine Plongee (Vincent). In the past, people recommended Fakarava Dive Center and this seems to be the current version of it. Vincent endorsed in another thread. I think does not take the dive passes, does it matter? Does the location matter in terms of where they dive?

accommodation choices:

• Pension Paparara. Lagoon side, looks very nice. but 100 Euro more than the other options. one alarming review.

• Fakarava Lodge (Sidonie). simple, most affordable. but is it on the coast? does that mater? and one very alarming google review about her packing up a guest while out diving and kicking them out due double booking, possible food poisoning of another guest, and cockroaches.

• Relais Marama. seems even more simple, but slightly more expensive than Fakarava Lodge. shared bathroom but people say clean. also, is it on the coast or not?

Rangiroa
dive op: Six Passengers. had chosen them before seeing @btscott's post above about them being "cool kids". Other threads had recommended them. issues?

accommodation choices:
• Bounty. Seems like the clear winner. any issues?
• Tahavine Dream. rather out of budget at > $250
• Le Merou Bleu. Looks my speed, with appealing hammocks and beach front bungalows. But at far north end of island. website only in french, owner seems to not speak english too well, and he asks for a bank transfer downpayment which no one else has and that's a bit of a PIA.

Diving
where do I need to make sure to dive, other than Tiputa Pass. And should I want to be diving several times on Tiputa Pass? Can the above ops be trusted to go to the best spot over 3 days of diving at each island?

Background and Concerns
I'm an experienced diver but going solo, so drift diving is a bit of a concern if I feel no one would have an eye out for me. This depends on current speed too, which is hard to gauge. Seems equipment is included with these ops. Should I bother to bring my own other than camera & computer?

In terms of stays, are mosquitos that bad? Cooking and food at places offering half board? Drinking water supply? Locations? Lagoon or Ocean side?

 

[btscott]

No matter what, you will have a great time. Some of the best diving in French Polynesia is on Rangiroa and Fakarava.

Regarding accommodations... We stayed at Havaiki in the north and Tetamanu in the south of Fakarava. Can't recommend Tetamanu, but Havaiki was great. Stayed at Hotel Maitai in Rangiroa and was nice place and can recommend it. Don't know any of the places you are thinking of staying. Doesn't matter where you stay on Fakarava North or Rangiroa. Whoever you dive with will pick you up. We biked both of the Atolls, not very big.

Diving... Six Passengers is fine. Just wasn't my cup of tea. You will dive Tiputa Pass and thats it. If you want to dive somewhere else, make arrangements in advance. Y AKA would be my choice in the future. On Fakarava O2 was great. Most of the diving in the North was along Garuae pass. Tried to arrange going further north, but was told by O2 that there was bleaching. I preferred Fakarava North of all the places we dove. Go south, but do it from the north for a day trip is my suggestion.

Never had an issue with mosquitos. There was no cooking facilities in any place we stayed. Drinking water was supplied to us. We brought our own gear, so can't speak to equipment. These are quiet islands, not a lot to do other than dive/ocean activities. We were pretty self sufficient. French Polynesia is expensive. We tried to cut down on costs as much as we could. Drank our own G&T's. Bought booze in Tahiti at Carrefour, etc...

In Rangiroa, grab a drink and bike to Tiputa Pass at sunset. Watch the dolphins jump out of the waves. Have fun!

 

[gajahduduk]

No matter what, you will have a great time. Some of the best diving in French Polynesia is on Rangiroa and Fakarava.

Regarding accommodations... We stayed at Havaiki in the north and Tetamanu in the south of Fakarava. Can't recommend Tetamanu, but Havaiki was great. Stayed at Hotel Maitai in Rangiroa and was nice place and can recommend it. Don't know any of the places you are thinking of staying. Doesn't matter where you stay on Fakarava North or Rangiroa. Whoever you dive with will pick you up. We biked both of the Atolls, not very big.

Diving... Six Passengers is fine. Just wasn't my cup of tea. You will dive Tiputa Pass and thats it. If you want to dive somewhere else, make arrangements in advance. Y AKA would be my choice in the future. On Fakarava O2 was great. Most of the diving in the North was along Garuae pass. Tried to arrange going further north, but was told by O2 that there was bleaching. I preferred Fakarava North of all the places we dove. Go south, but do it from the north for a day trip is my suggestion.

Never had an issue with mosquitos. There was no cooking facilities in any place we stayed. Drinking water was supplied to us. We brought our own gear, so can't speak to equipment. These are quiet islands, not a lot to do other than dive/ocean activities. We were pretty self sufficient. French Polynesia is expensive. We tried to cut down on costs as much as we could. Drank our own G&T's. Bought booze in Tahiti at Carrefour, etc...

In Rangiroa, grab a drink and bike to Tiputa Pass at sunset. Watch the dolphins jump out of the waves. Have fun!

Thanks for the reply! Havaiki is booked, as are many or most in Fakarva. What I listed are, so far, my only known choices after emailing all of the ones listed here a few days ago. I don't know if there are others. What qualifies at "Fakarava North"?

Does each island only have one main market/town area? Or more spread out?

Where else other than Tiputa Pass should I consider trying to make arrangements for on Rangiroa? Is the South of Fakarava worth the day trip cost? How is the diving there different from elsewhere?

Are we diving in ripping currents where it might be tough to stay with the group, or are these ideally rather gentle drift dives?

Are there taxis around, or is it bike everywhere?

Any must try restaurant recommendations for local food on either island?

 

[btscott]

You fly into Fakarava North and it is the larger part. More hotels, markets restaurants. To get to Fakarava South, you drive to the bottom of North and take a 2 hour boat ride to Tetamanu Village. Only a couple places to stay around Tetamanu. There are no restaurants, markets or really anything in the south. You are there to dive and see the "wall of sharks". You dive the pass. No much current and see some sharks. There are a lots of sharks... I was kinda over it by the 2nd dive. Tetamanu Village is very bare bones. I didn't mind it. However, the divemasters are horrible or at least they were.

In Fakarava North, you have options for diving. Though we pretty much dove the reef around the pass and the pass. You can get some ripping current here. Had a spectacular at around 100 ft with ripping current that could take the regulator out of your mouth. Had to crawl along the bottom to an overlook and watch the fish life go by. It was a great dive, but not for everyone. Giant wall of sharks came in out of nowhere on that dive. Again, thought the diving in Fakarava North was the best. Dolphins, mantas, eagle rays were some of the highlights.

Rangiroa... most of the restaurants are down around the pass, though there are markets and restaurants along the northern section too. I didn't find the current in Rangiroa to be of any issue. Just a drift dive for the most part. Dolphin encounters are spectacular in the pass. Jump in the water and you are surrounded by dolphins that want a belly scratch. Pretty much happened on every dive.

Don't know about taxis, but I think there are transports...

We ate at our accommodations, so can't speak to different restaurants.