Closed Faber Steel HP100

[vinsanity]

I'm looking for a Faber HP100 to double up with one I have.

If you are in the Portland/Seattle area, I have an extra Faber HP117 in great condition with a fresh hydro, o2 clean, and Vis that I'll trade you. Otherwise, I have cash. Outside the area, I'm open to shipping on my dime if you are willing to box it up.

For the right price, I might also be interested in buying an already doubled set of HP100s that are not the old 3500 psi skinny neck.

Pic of my HP117.

 

[TMurrr]

purely curious here, and sorry mods if I'm not allowed to ask gear specific questions in the classifieds

but what are the disadvantages of the old 3500 PSI skinny next HP100s?

I'm also searching for a pair of HP100s myself (and funny enough have (4) HP117's to trade / sell that area 'too much air' for me) but would like to know which models are better than others and what to look for

 

[vinsanity]

purely curious here, and sorry mods if I'm not allowed to ask gear specific questions in the classifieds

but what are the disadvantages of the old 3500 PSI skinny next HP100s?

I'm also searching for a pair of HP100s myself (and funny enough have (4) HP117's to trade / sell that area 'too much air' for me) but would like to know which models are better than others and what to look for

3500 PSI tanks only support DIN, not yoke. So if you have a yoke reg or want to later sell it to someone with a yoke. That's a problem. The newer standard 3442 PSI tanks support the DIN/Yoke Pro valve.

Also since no one makes them anymore and they only existed for a short time, I think there is only 1 manufacturer that still makes a valve for them. If you are looking for a manifold to double them up, I think you're stuck watching the used market.

My LDS said they weren't very high quality tanks, but I have nothing to back this up.

If you dive Yoke or just want to stick with a tank style that's not discontinued, stick with 3442 PSI HP100s. Worthington, PST, Faber made them, of which only Faber are still making them. That list is in order of least buoyant to most buoyant. If you are wearing a thick exposure suit, a Worthington will let you remove some lead compared to the Faber, which is pretty valuable to us dry suit divers. In FL, it probably doesn't matter. All 3 will meet your needs.

 

[Tracy]

3500 PSI tanks only support DIN, not yoke. So if you have a yoke reg or want to later sell it to someone with a yoke. That's a problem. The newer standard 3442 PSI tanks support the DIN/Yoke Pro valve.

Also since no one makes them anymore and they only existed for a short time, I think there is only 1 manufacturer that still makes a valve for them. If you are looking for a manifold to double them up, I think you're stuck watching the used market.

My LDS said they weren't very high quality tanks, but I have nothing to back this us.

If you dive Yoke or just want to stick with a tank style that's not discontinued, stick with 3442 PSI HP100s. Worthington, PST, Faber made them, of which only Faber are still making them. That list is in order of least buoyant to most buoyant. If you are wearing a thick exposure suit, a Worthington will let you remove some lead compared to the Faber, which is pretty valuable to us dry suit divers. In FL, it probably doesn't matter. All 3 will meet your needs.

Pretty much spot on except for the not high quality part. They were excellent tanks with good buoyancy characteristics. They last forever, I have never had one fail a hydro. Unlike the Asahi tanks which also came in 7/8 neck, the PST steel almost never flash rusts at hydro.
They can be modified to accept a yoke insert if desired, but they never came that way. Not really an issue with doubles, but common in single tank configurations.
If you find a deal on a set of them as doubles, don't hesitate, they are excellent tanks, but remember when you buy a second set, you will be looking for the same to match the buoyancy characteristics.

 

[TMurrr]

3500 PSI tanks only support DIN, not yoke. So if you have a yoke reg or want to later sell it to someone with a yoke. That's a problem. The newer standard 3442 PSI tanks support the DIN/Yoke Pro valve.

Also since no one makes them anymore and they only existed for a short time, I think there is only 1 manufacturer that still makes a valve for them. If you are looking for a manifold to double them up, I think you're stuck watching the used market.

My LDS said they weren't very high quality tanks, but I have nothing to back this us.

If you dive Yoke or just want to stick with a tank style that's not discontinued, stick with 3442 PSI HP100s. Worthington, PST, Faber made them, of which only Faber are still making them. That list is in order of least buoyant to most buoyant. If you are wearing a thick exposure suit, a Worthington will let you remove some lead compared to the Faber, which is pretty valuable to us dry suit divers. In FL, it probably doesn't matter. All 3 will meet your needs.

So another good indicator of what I'm looking at, beyond the stampings (3500 vs 3442) is whether or not it has a pro valve?
I currently dive yoke (just what I bought after my OW 4 years ago), although I'm heavily considering switching to DIN as my (3) HP80s have pro valves and DIN seems much better long term.

Ah, yes, I came from CA and know just how much lead weight all of the instructors were rocking in their dry suits. No fun.
Right now I dive 0 weight with a 3/2mm wetsuit and steel HP80, I'm actually beginning to worry about the reverse problem of being 'too negatively buoyant' in spring/summer when the neoprene gets swapped for a skin suit.

Thank you both for the info!

 

[Jona Silverstein]

3500 PSI tanks only support DIN, not yoke. So if you have a yoke reg or want to later sell it to someone with a yoke. That's a problem. The newer standard 3442 PSI tanks support the DIN/Yoke Pro valve.

There is some history behind this and it may make you a more well-rounded diver and be able to answer some questions in the future.
You have 3 different pressures for Valves.
200Bar (Standard Yoke Valve)
242 Bar (Standard Pro Valve, IE Yoke/DIN)
300 Bar (DIN Only Valve)

The Key difference between din and yoke is how the o-ring is contained. On a yoke valve, the O-ring is contained in the valve then compressed by the first stage holding it in place. This is prone to extruding at higher pressures, hence why you should never overfill tanks with yoke valves and why you should never put your ear close to the valve when opening it. (Dumb and unsafe practice, Don't know why some instructors teach it as it can blow out your eardrum if the o-ring fails.) On DIN Valve, the o-ring is contained in the first stage and is encapsulated when secured on a tank preventing extrusion and making an overall better connection rated for higher pressures.

The difference between the 242Bar (3442psi) tanks and the 300Bar (3500psi) tanks is the number of threads on the DIN Connection. DOT Requires 11 threads on all cylinders with a pressure rating of 3500psi and higher.The Common "Pro-valve" and today's HP Tanks are 3442psi rated as they fall under that 3500psi rating meaning they only need 7 threads and can be made a yoke connection via the donut.


If you can get your hands on the PST 100s. Keep them and cherish them, they are awesome cylinders, I think we have a half dozen of them lying around because they have simply awesome characteristics. DONT OVERFILL THEM. If you routinely overfill them and leave them full, they are prone to failing hydro and more often than not, you don't need that extra couple hundred psi at the risk of failing your tank.

 

[Jona Silverstein]

And Yes the 7/8" Neck can be a pain in the ass in the instance you damage a valve as they arent very common for coming up for sale. most of the PST tanks came with slant back valves which are great as you can run the tank higher and not bump your head on the first stage.

 

[rob.mwpropane]

If you can get your hands on the PST 100s. Keep them and cherish them, they are awesome cylinders, I think we have a half dozen of them lying around because they have simply awesome characteristics. DONT OVERFILL THEM. If you routinely overfill them and leave them full, they are prone to failing hydro and more often than not, you don't need that extra couple hundred psi at the risk of failing your tank.

I can't remeber the exact number but in order to pass testing don't manufacturer have to take the tank to 3 times the working pressure something like 10,000 cycles and then it pass hydro? Or maybe it's 5000 cycles? @tbone1004 would know.

All I'm saying is your ~ 4-500 psi over working pressure doesn't hold a candle to what the tank is tested for.

@Tracy I'm sure fills his to the top and has never seen one fail hydro.

 

[Jona Silverstein]

I can't remeber the exact number but in order to pass testing don't manufacturer have to take the tank to 3 times the working pressure something like 10,000 cycles and then it pass hydro? Or maybe it's 5000 cycles? @tbone1004 would know.

All I'm saying is your ~ 4-500 psi over working pressure doesn't hold a candle to what the tank is tested for.

@Tracy I'm sure fills his to the top and has never seen one fail hydro.

hydros for most scuba tanks is 5/3 working pressure so for most aluminum tanks that’s 5000psi. LP Steels get 4000psi and HP steels ~5800psi depending on pressure.

A few hundred here or there then using the tank is more often than not. It’s the cave fills that sit for months at a time in a cave that will most often fail hydro.

And cave divers doing “hydro fills” on their tanks in which the stamped pressure on the tank is their turn pressure is highly unsafe. Ever notice how a lot of cave divers always have new tanks?

 

[Still Kicking]

hydros for most scuba tanks is 5/3 working pressure so for most aluminum tanks that’s 5000psi. LP Steels get 4000psi and HP steels ~5800psi depending on pressure.

Kinda inside baseball, ok very inside baseball but accurate info is always good......

The test pressure for most exempted tanks (high pressure tanks) is set by DOT at 5250psi not 5/3. Also the test procedure includes a pretest pressurization to approximately 85% of test pressure prior to the actual test. Many tanks will fail if this is not done but it's well understood by inspectors these days so pretty much a non issue.