Faber LP80s vs AL80s

[rico68]

I'm in the market for my first tanks. I've been doing all the reading on the steel vs aluminum debate; and I guess I see advantages to both so I'm not fixed on either one (yet).

New shot blasted AL80s are selling for $185 here. Steel of course is nearly double. BUT.... I have a shop owner who offered to sell me used steel Faber LP80s from his rental stock at $149 each. Manufacture dates on these is 03/03. So they'll be due for hydro in about 18 months. Paint is great shape so it doesn't look like they've been beaten around.

What are your thoughts? It's all fresh water diving around here. I'm carrying 22 pounds on my belt with a 7mm suit. Am I better off with the used LP80's over new AL80's?

 

[Jim Lapenta]

Go for the steels. You will drop weight off your belt. Steels are more forgiving on overfills. Also you can carry more air. A lp 80 with 2600 psi fill (10%) over actually gives you 86 cu ft of gas. For me al or steel is a no brainer. I've got 4 steel 72's, 2 e-7 80's and just picked up a set of lp 95's. I only dive al on vacation when steels are not available.

 

[Puffer Fish]

I would go steel, but not those. The replacement tank for the LP80 is the LP85 - and it is neutral when empty, versus -1.7 for the LP 80.

While it is nice to loose the weight off of the belt, there is also the issue of trim. With almost 8 lbs negative on your back, there will be a tendency to spend the dive, looking at the surface.

I would suggest a neutral tank, when empty, as the best choice.

Note: one the whole, the cost of a tank is one of the least expensive things you will ever buy in diving. And the difference in price, over a lot of years is really trivial.

 

[Charlie99]

A lp 80 with 2600 psi fill (10%) over actually gives you 86 cu ft of gas.

Specification tables such as http://www.huronscuba.com/equipment/scubaCylinderSpecification.html
list the Faber LP80 as 78 cu ft at the "overfill" pressure of 2400+10% or 2640psi.

 

[loosebits]

Never had any problems with single steels trying to flip me over (LP85, LP95, LP108) or double-steels for that matter (104's).

Get the steel tank.

 

[Flatsfish B]

I dive LP 80's often, great tanks.

Also 185 seems a little high for alum 80's? My lds sells them for 139.99 or 145.99 can't remember which price...

 

[cummings66]

I've never found myself staring at the surface with my steel HP 120's. I can simply stop moving and that's the position I'll remain in. Maybe it's due to a steel BP/W or some other unknown factor to me, but I'd not sweat a steel tank of any displacement on my back. I've dove with HP80's, AL80's,HP100's and HP120's and never had a problem with any of them.

The neatest tank was the HP80, it's like a baby tank but with a full fill is sweet. I wouldn't buy one however, but I have rented one on occasion when I needed a third tank.

I think I'd buy the tanks if I could get them cheaper than that because you're going to soon be faced with a VIS and Hydro, add those to the price and you're pushing new prices.

 

[jmps]

I just got a Faber LP85 and like it MUCH better than AL. It allowed me to remove lead and lower my total weight. Not having a bouyant back at the end of the dive is great. If you decide to buy new go with the LP85 as Puffer says.

As Charlie said the capacity quoted is for the + rating. Are these + rated? If not, I wouldn't get them. Otherwise, they sound like a good value. The only issue will be if the don't get the + rating at the next hydro. This is a pretty low risk since they are fairly new. The hydro/VIP cost does get you close to a good deal on a new LP85. I got mine for $275.

After diving with my LP85 I will never go back to an AL80 by choice.

 

[hunter991]

$150 seems like a pretty decent deal for those tanks. You may want to consider just buying new LP 85's though. They are a little better trimming out in the water and by the time you get those tanks hydrod you might come out ahead in buying the 85's with a fresh hydro. I can sell you new LP7-85 worthingtons for $200.

Brent

 

[divestoclimb]

The only issue will be if the don't get the + rating at the next hydro. This is a pretty low risk since they are fairly new.

Actually it's pretty high risk. Most places don't bother with the extra paperwork that's required to re-qualify a tank for the 10% overfill.

This doesn't mean that you CAN'T overfill the tanks anyway... I have no personal experience, but I'll bet most shops won't pay any attention to whether or not the tank still has a "+" rating, as long as it's fairly new there's no harm in pushing it to 2640.

Ben