Expand current setup or need to go DSLR?

[AbyssalPlains]

Hi all!
After plowing through the wealth of info and the stickies, I feel I have learned a lot more but I also realize that my questions are even a notch below all that, so please bear with me. I've been using an Olympus C-7070 in a C-5060 housing (PT-20), with satisfactory results. I now feel I have arrived at the limits of that setup, though. But before going DSLR and almost fainting when looking at the cost involved, I want to be sure that I have maxed out my system and it's not just ignorance on my part or lack of equipment add-ons that prohibit me from getting me to where I want to go.
I am mostly interested in macro shooting and the occasional blue-water fish school.
Basically, it comes down to these issues: Can't get as close as I want, because AF can't get a sharp image if closer than a foot or so; in super-macro mode, the flash shuts off altogether, so I can't use this option at all; manual focus is awkward because LCD screen is not very accurate and viewfinder pretty much impossible with that housing; built-in flash lights up the area next to the object but not the object itself; shutter lag prohibits shots of fish, seals or skittish creatures.

Would a strobe on an arm help with the lighting? Does one arm make sense at all or do I need two? What do I need to get decent pictures of, say, tiny shrimps in anemones?

Any suggestions wil be greatly appreciated!!
Cheers,
Daniel

 

[AndyT]

Hi Daniel

Firstly add a focus light to your setup - it is almost essential so that you can get decent focus on small critters in low light conditions. There was a thread on this board recently discussing this.

If you aren't already, consider getting an add on macro lens or two for those really tiny creatures.

Adding a strobe or two will really help with lighting and reducing backscatter.

You can get shots of skittish creatures, but it will require patience on your part - the less you move around the more inclined they will be to slow down and maybe even come in closer to investigate.

Hope this is of some help.

 

[AbyssalPlains]

Hi Andrew!

Thank you so much for your reply. Sounds like I haven't maxed out the potential of my current setup yet (I never used anything else but the camera and the housing and wasn't aware that you can add-on lenses and all that). Now, when you say focus light, can I use the strobe for that? I used the 5060 before I got the 7070 and if I remember correctly, the flash shuts off in super-macro mode. Can you circumvent that when you use external strobe(s)? Or is it rather that you don't use those pre-set settings at all in underwater macro photography? I guess I'm still not sure how the add-on macro lens would overcome my camera's focusing problems when getting very close. I thought it's because the AF focuses on something besides the object because of the paralaxis? In other words, how do you manage to get really really close and still get a focused image?

Sorry for all these dumb questions...

 

[AUTiger]

You'll need an external flash for supermacro because the lense of the camera (especially with an add-on macro lense) will cause a shadow on the subject. Thats probably why the camera disables the internal flash. You need to move up to a strobe. When you eventually get a dSLR, you'll need a strobe anyways, so you should buy a strobe now that will be compatible with your future dSLR.

You should also buy a macro lense. You'll be better able to get close-ups of the little creatures like shrimp and be able to fill the frame with an eel without having to get quite so close. I used the Inon macro lense and found it to be a big improvement. Some folks stack two macro lenses for additional zoom power although the depth of field gets shallower and harder to work with.

Once you max out those tools, you'll already have a strobe for when you move up to a dSLR.

Incidentally, I have a used Oly 5060 (good as a backup camera) and a used Ikelite housing for an Oly 5060 or 7070. This housing would allow you to use Ikelite strobes with TTL strobe metering.

Camera - $250
Housing - $350
Kit - $550

Includes extras like memory cards, o-rings, a few lenses, spare battery, camera bag, etc.

Good luck. I loved my Oly 5060 and took some very good photos with it. Its a good camera with a lot of capability. Eventually, you might even try an add-on wide-angle lense.

David

 

[AUTiger]

Pteronodon,

I don't suggest a focus light yet. Get a strobe first. Some strobes (like the DS-125) have a modeling light built in, but thats not as good as a separate focus light. Worry about that later.

The macro lense shortens the focusing distance from the camera to the subject:

The UCL-165M67 close-up lens has a 165mm focal length and makes high magnification close-up photography possible by shortening the close focus distance, allowing the photographer to get closer to the subject. Also, the lens is designed to work effectively both above and below water, allowing the photographer to capture macro subjects above water, and in wet or splash type environments.​

Here is the Inon Lense that a lot of people around here have used: Inon Macro Lense

 

[pakman]

A lot of good advise already. I'll jump on the "get a good strobe" band wagon. And as AUTuger, said, get one that you can use with a DSLR if you choose to upgrade in the future. However, I'd still recommend a separate focus light. Problem with using the modeling light on a strobe is that you have to point at the subject. In some cases, you may not want to do that to avoid backscatter . No need for a $200-500 focus light. Any small dive light will do and you can usually make a little DIY diffuser for it.

On top of the Inon closeup lens, consider Inon's wideangle add on lens as well if you are into wide angle shots. While all the Inon add-on lenses start adding up in $$, remember that you'll probably be able to recoup a lot of your investment if you sell them later (when you upgrade to a DSLR ) Always people looking to buy those add on lenses.

Now I was probably in your situation a year ago with my canon S70. But adding a good ext. strobe like an Inon, S&S, Ike, etc, really makes a difference. The colors really come out and you can adjust strobe placement for some very interesting lighting/ shadowing. In hindsight, I should have stuck to my point n shoot a little longer before upgrading to a DSLR (my wallet would have been happier).

But the one thing you can't get around is unfortunately the shutter lag (and manual focus). The only solution to that is a DSLR... If you go the DSLR route, as you probably know already, get ready to spend... It really does start adding up...

 

[AndyT]

Both the 5060 & 7070 do not focus well under low lighting conditions - remember that it is actually a lot darker than you think "down there" , your eyes adjust automatically to make it appear lighter . The sensor on your camera needs a well lit subject with plenty of contrast to be able to achieve auto focus - before the flash fires. A focus light will supply the necessary light .

Using an external strobe will allow the flash to fire (the external one only) in super macro mode ,although I personally never use it , instead I use the Inon close up lenses as mentioned before.

I also use spot focus as opposed to iESP so that the camera focuses on what I want it to. When doing macro photography I slowly push the camera towards the subject untill it appears to be in focus, 1/2 press the shutter to get focus and when I'm happy with the composition take the picture.

The pre set underwater modes don't work really well, I have set up 4 My Modes for underwater use . If you PM me your e- mail I will send it to you in an Excel spreadsheet. I'm assuming you use your camera on Manual not Program.

 

[AndyT]

If you are looking at buying a strobe consider the Inon Z 240, Ikelite DS 125 or the Sea & Sea YS 110 - they all have built in modelling lights.

 

[AbyssalPlains]

Hi all!
Wow -- you guys made me really happy. You answered most of my questions right there. Here's one more thing that came to my mind. Maybe some of you have had similar experience: I'm using my C-7070 in the PT-20 housing (which is really for the 5060) because I lost my 5060 and replaced it with the 7070, only to discover that it fits well into the housing, except Oly changed the On/Off switch and Mode dial, so I can't operate those when the camera is inside the housing. I usually turn it on, seal ithe housing and disable the LCD display on the way to the dive site and while I'm not shooting when underwater, to preserve power. I also used to preset the mode dial to "Scene" and select "Underwater macro" or "Underwater wide" before sealing the housing. I contacted an underwater housing dealer (forget which one) and Olympus Corp. because I would like to exchange the housing levers that operate the camera's on/off switch and mode dial, but that ended up nowhere. The retailer's response was "Sorry, need to buy a new housing", and when calling Olympus, after having spent almost an hour on hold and being transferred, I was told that I could order only those parts that they feature on their Emporium parts website. There must be a way of getting just the parts I need. What if I had the correct housing but needed a replacement for a part that broke?

Thanks for all your help!

 

[AndyT]

They would probably ask you to send it in for repairs.