E-PL3 settings my mode

[Prop Joe]

Forgive my electronic ignorance. Is there a step by step tutorial somewhere on the net about the "My Mode" setting on an E-PL( ) and how to easily achieve the same parameters as something like this:
Splashdown Divers - Boynton Beach, Florida - Underwater Digital Photography - 5050 Settings - 5060 Settings
I can get to shutter and aperture to my liking easy enough in "M" mode but clue less on finding the force "flash mode" to get the camera to trigger the strobes. I'm specifically looking for camera flash settings to be set for "M" shooting WA "force flash"/ to achieve manual strobe power control and "STTL" flash setting with a pair of YS110A. I know "manual one" on the strobes will fire the strobes correctly by having the camera in the "I" setting (on the dial)? Will that change when going to the "M" mode?
Thanks!!!

 

[Sail Rock Diver]

i set my sea nad sea 110a to 2 mode and the epl 1 flash to 1/64 it works werry well but all full manuel. i think sttl works only wit aperture and shutter modus

 

[ProfF]

i set my sea nad sea 110a to 2 mode and the epl 1 flash to 1/64 it works werry well but all full manuel. i think sttl works only wit aperture and shutter modus

This is a bit incorrect. As Sail Rock Diver said, setting the YS strobes to Mode 2 will have manual control of flash strengh. If you set the camera to red-eye you need Mode 1 (but why do that???). However, if you set the YS to TTL and the camera flash mode to "fill" you can shoot S-TTL in all modes (including manual).

I am not sure however if that was the original question.

 

[Sail Rock Diver]

@ proff thats what im mean . set the s&s 110a on mode 2 full manual= manual = control of Flash strengh. or not? and i tried you settings S&S 110a set to sttl, camera to fill. but i get allways underexposed pics. ok i have to say in the golf of thailand we have not allways the best vis maybe its becouse of that. if not i would like you explain a bit more to me. thanks

 

[Prop Joe]

However, if you set the YS to TTL and the camera flash mode to "fill" you can shoot S-TTL in all modes (including manual).

This sounds Ideal... Does this "fill" make the cameras on board flash do a full dump when in a WA situation?
Does it burn through the cameras battery faster?
Does this mean a bunch of heat in the housing?


I'm still trying to grasp the Fiber optic flash usage after years of good Ikelite TTL use. I'd like to do full manual but I'd like to walk before I run and try some fiber optic TTL 1st.
Thanks everyone.

 

[Prop Joe]

I'm in Cozumel now. I'll try "fill" mode in ttl today. On thing I noticed was, playing in a dark room, is that images seemed underexposed until I put the strobes at at the highest setting. I hope that is correct...
I understand the strobes need to be in the #2 manual, for manual. What settings do I need on the camera, to go full manual on the strobes as well as the camera??? I can play with brightness as needed.
I had this all written down and lost my notes on the trip down.:depressed:
Thanks!!!

 

[JackConnick]

Joe;

Any of the "power" numerical settings, like 1/64th are manual. Yes, the strobe needs to have the power all the way up in TTL, then it has the full range available.

Jack

 

[Jak Crow]

The strobes will also flash with the camera's direct flash power settings, i.e. 1/2, 1/4, 1/8, etc. I've had good look with these settings as well.

 

[Prop Joe]

Thanks everyone! I got it working now in TTL. Its at least as good as the trusty 5050 without the horrendous shutter lag. I wish the strobes where brighter but I think that's what everyone who shoots UW will say. Ergonomics of the Nauticam are light years better than my old Ikelite housing. I'll get it, just going to take some practice. I might try some manual strobe work today but will depend on current and dive site.

 

[CheddarChick]

Beautiful