Drysuit diving

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Enough to take off the squeeze would be ideal. The more air in the suit, the more difficult to manage. If my weighting is spot on, I won't use my BCD much as the air to take off the squeeze will get me neutral. If for some reason I need more than that, I prefer to use the wing, though if I am underdressed (like this weekend where I forgot my undergarments and was diving 52 degree water with just shorts and a light jacket, I'll sometimes add a bit extra to the suit for warmth, but then you need to make sure you are on top of venting.

I haven't used the manual vent on my suit since my second dry dive. When I put on the suit I tend to screw the valve down so I can add a little air (more comfortable), then I open it all the way once in the water so it vents out. Then I tighten it down about a turn as I decend. As I am working my way back up I open it up again which allows it to vent easily without any intervention (except getting my left arm as the high point).
 
submerged i only use the drysuit for buoyancy, if much easier and safer you only need to worry about one thing. If you have a crushed neoprene is much easier then a big trilaminate . The dry suit is equipped with an automatic dump valve if we are well weighted the suit will make the buoyancy for you. Just take easy. On the surface use the BCD. good dives.
 
Ok, next question! Dry suit workshop is almost complete, made it through the pool sessions, but I have to wait for my open water dives because my buddy went to Madrid for the weekend. What a jerk.

Anyway, it has become apparent that I will be obtaining a dry suit in the near future. I have already dived a tri-lam, which I got pretty cold in. Obviously I want to test some other styles and models. I've tried to find information on the pros and cons of them all, but that information is scattered all over the place. Also, I have sizing questions. Do the manufacturers factor in the loose fit for added warm cloths in their sizes? For instance, I have a Bare Medium Sem-dry. Does that mean I wear a medium dry suit, or should I begin searching for a Large?

All thoughts and opinions are welcome! Thanks.
 
Most manufacturer's will have a size chart explaining the dimensions of their S/M/L. Best to visit the individual websites and see how they define their sizes.

Oh, of course. I should clarify. I am looking more for experiential examples from other divers to help with my interpretation of the sizing charts. Due to my current station in Germany (where everything is INCREDIBLY expensive), I will either be purchasing a dry suit from my LDS "after school" clearance rack, or through the mail. If I buy from the LDS, that means I get to choose from about 3 dry suits they currently have, one of which was the one I wore in the course, which was a bit large for me.
 
Ok, next question! Dry suit workshop is almost complete, made it through the pool sessions, but I have to wait for my open water dives because my buddy went to Madrid for the weekend. What a jerk.

Anyway, it has become apparent that I will be obtaining a dry suit in the near future. I have already dived a tri-lam, which I got pretty cold in. Obviously I want to test some other styles and models. I've tried to find information on the pros and cons of them all, but that information is scattered all over the place. Also, I have sizing questions. Do the manufacturers factor in the loose fit for added warm cloths in their sizes? For instance, I have a Bare Medium Sem-dry. Does that mean I wear a medium dry suit, or should I begin searching for a Large?

All thoughts and opinions are welcome! Thanks.

If you got cold in the Trilam, you didn't have proper thermal protection. Probably need a better quality undergarment or have to layer differently. I dive a SANTI (trilam) and have no problem staying warm. SANTI's HQ is right at the Baltic Sea (cold water) and they have no trouble doing the dives. They also make heated options.
 
Lessons learned:

1) Your drysuit is not a BCD. Air in the suit should only be there to reduce the squeeze.

2) weight belts just get in the way. get integrated weight pouches, get tank weight holders, and even use ankle weights.

3) practice with a buddy your various issues: feet first, getting trim, etc

4) A clean and waxed zipper is a dry person.

5) Hang by the feet to dry.

6) dry gloves and dry hood is a good idea. Why let those areas get wet, and cold?

7) the underwear you use should be able to be swapped out when it gets warmer/cooler.

8) Do NOT Pee in you Dry suit....LOL
 
Some random thoughts ... from the perspective of someone who's been diving dry for a long time ...

- Proper fit is the most important feature in any drysuit. Regardless of whether it's trilam or neoprene, a suit that's too small will restrict your ability to move, and a suit that's too large will result in folds that trap air in places you don't want it. If you don't have an "off the rack" body, the extra money for a made to measure suit is a good investment.

- Proper choice of undergarment is important for warmth. Someone mentioned wearing street clothes or sweats ... I wouldn't recommend it, since those are generally made out of cotton, which will provide you no warmth if they get wet. Keep in mind that all drysuits will eventually become wetsuits ... then you get them fixed. A flood, even in relatively warm water, can be a chilly experience in the wrong undergarment. A good undergarment is designed to keep you warm even when wet. There are many choices in terms of weight, materials, and style. The one that's right for you will depend on what type of suit you've chosen and the temperature of the water you're diving in. There are other, less important factors such as price, body shape, personal preference ... but the overall consideration must be that it keep you warm when wet.

- Suit or BCD for buoyancy control is a chronic topic of contention. If you're properly weighted, it matters not that much ... but if you're overweighted, or carrying large or multiple tanks, it becomes more important to rely on your BCD for buoyancy control because you'll be entering the water overweighted and have to compensate for that during the early parts of the dive. The problem with a big air bubble in your suit is that it moves when you move, and you're constantly having to "balance" that air shift. BCDs provide a much smaller space for air to shift in. I recommend to my students to only put enough air in the suit to provide loft for the undergarment, and use the BCD for its intended purpose.

- Weights ... someone recommended an integrated BCD. That works. But consider why you're wearing weights ... it's to compensate for the inherent buoyancy of your exposure suit. In colder climes, that can be considerable. Now think about what would happen if you should ever have to remove your BCD underwater. Your weights are in the BCD ... making it negatively buoyant and therefore wants to sink. Your suit is inherently positively buoyant and therefore wants to float. If you are using an integrated BCD, get some practice removing and replacing it underwater in a pool or very shallow OW ... you have to always keep the BCD on top of you. Otherwise if it gets away from you the BCD sinks and you float ... and guess where your air supply is ... :shocked2:

- Zippers ... they're the most expensive replacement item on a drysuit, so take good care of it. If you're choosing a suit with a standard YKK zipper, that means regular cleaning and lubricating. If you're using one of the new TiZip's ... it's less of an issue, although you still need to lubricate the end of the zipper, where the "car" rests when it's closed, from time to time. Both of my current suits have the TiZip, and I'm pretty sold on it for convenience and durability. The other big advantage is that with a YKK zipper you really need to be careful not to damage the zipper by bending it too tight when packing the suit ... or by tossing something heavy on your suit when it's in the bag. The TiZip is far more forgiving, and doesn't seem to mind being bent as much.

- Seals ... neoprene, latex, or silicone. I don't have much experience with silicone seals. The biggest advantage to latex seals is that they're easier and cheaper to replace ... and whatever material you choose you WILL have to replace the seals at some point. People generally choose neoprene seals because they're more comfortable. But they do cost more to replace, and you generally can't do the work yourself.

- Boots ... built-in boots are convenient, but often don't offer as much support as rock boots worn over a neoprene sock built into the suit.

- Ankle weights ... useful in some cases, but way overused. Good technique usually makes them unnecessary. They can, however, make good trim weights.

- When considering whether to go neoprene or trilam consider that if you're planning to travel with your suit, a good lightweight trilam will serve you better ... neoprene suits are really heavy, and take a long time to dry out. Luggage restrictions being what they are, you DON'T want to be coming back from a trip packing a wet neo suit ... two or three trips will cost you more in overweight fees than you paid for the suit.

Just some thoughts to add to the mix ...

... Bob (Grateful Diver)
 
If you got cold in the Trilam, you didn't have proper thermal protection. Probably need a better quality undergarment or have to layer differently. I dive a SANTI (trilam) and have no problem staying warm. SANTI's HQ is right at the Baltic Sea (cold water) and they have no trouble doing the dives. They also make heated options.

I suspected as much. I only had a single pair of what were essentially long underwear.
 
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