Does name matter when purchasing valves or are they all the same?

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The tanks I currently use are Al80's. I plan on purchasing steel tanks in the future, but for this year's scuba 'budget', I can only afford a set of H-Valves. I thank all of you for responding, but I feel I am no further at determining if I should go with the Thermo H-valves, the Dive Rite valves or some other H-valves. The valves I have now are non modular so I will have to replace the whole valve. Thermo does make H-valves and they can be seen at www.abysmal.com. As for DIN, I understand the value of it and plan on doing so in the future. Since we are on this topic, I have a few questions about it.
1. Can I convert my regs to DIN myself or do I need a reg technician to do it?
2. How much does it cost?
3. When diving down south, is it hard to find dive shops who rent DIN tanks? If so, is there an adaptor that can be used to overcome this problem?
Please respond. Thanks.
 
Oh I probably should have included this in my previous message with regards to the DIN setup, I have two Scubapro MK20's. Thanks.
 
then this is the one I would get...

http://www.abysmal.com/Merchant2/me...=ADR&Product_Code=Val-351H&Category_Code=VALH

Or for OMS...

http://www.omsdive.com/valves2.html

Or for Dive Rite...

http://www.dive-rite.com/products/gas/std_valv.htm

I guess the manufacturer of the valve will not make as big a difference as the versatility of the valve in question. Buying them as a 200 bar DIN with the inserts to make them a Yoke style will help YOU to transition from yoke to DIN -IF- you ever decide to do so. Then, all you would need is the $50-$60 dollar DIN upgrade that replaces the yoke adapter on your regulator. Keep the yoke adapter just in case you travel and need to have it. Can you rplace it??? I don't see why not, given that you have the right tools and only two opposable thumbs.
 
Originally posted by a4lod
The tanks I currently use are Al80's. I plan on purchasing steel tanks in the future, but for this year's scuba 'budget', I can only afford a set of H-Valves. I thank all of you for responding, but I feel I am no further at determining if I should go with the Thermo H-valves, the Dive Rite valves or some other H-valves. The valves I have now are non modular so I will have to replace the whole valve. Thermo does make H-valves and they can be seen at www.abysmal.com. As for DIN, I understand the value of it and plan on doing so in the future. Since we are on this topic, I have a few questions about it.
1. Can I convert my regs to DIN myself or do I need a reg technician to do it?
2. How much does it cost?
3. When diving down south, is it hard to find dive shops who rent DIN tanks? If so, is there an adaptor that can be used to overcome this problem?
Please respond. Thanks.

Well, I didn't know that Thermo had the whole line up -- cool. Anyway, as I said before, the Dive Rite, Scuba Pro, and Sea Elite are all the same valve -- probably made by Thermo as you heard -- but sold at different prices. I believe Sea Elite's new valves now have rubber knobs rather than the plastic ones. The rubber knobs are easier to grip and less likely to break. I don't know about the others, but Thermo still uses plastic knobs. Whatever you do, avoid the OMS valve.

OK, there are two types of DIN: 200 BAR and 300 BAR (referred to as 200DIN and 300DIN). This can all get kind of confusing to discuss in writing, but I'll do my best. A 200DIN valve accommodates pressures up to 3000psi and 300DIN can go up to 4500psi. The lengths of the threads of a 300DIN reg are longer than the threads of a 200DIN reg (as well as the threads inside their respective valves, of course).

The primary reason for using DIN (for tech stuff) is not the pressures they can take, but the security between the reg and the valve. The 300DIN reg, due to its longer threads, offer a better connection than the 200DIN. Here's where it gets a bit confusing. A 300DIN reg will fit into a 200DIN valve. A 200DIN reg will not fit into a 300DIN valve. A yoke reg can fit onto a 200DIN valve IF you buy a little insert that screws into the valve. A 300DIN reg (as well as a 200DIN reg) can be used on a yoke valve using a DIN to yoke ADAPTOR. The adaptor screws onto the threads of the DIN reg and allows you to use the reg on a yoke valve.

OK, most everyone in the tech community, including myself, uses 300DIN regs and valves for their more secure connection. I have an adaptor that I can use for yoke valves if I so desired. Here's a curve ball, though. I don't like using an adaptor because they tend to bring the first stage closer to the back of your head. Rather than use an adaptor, I CONVERT my DIN reg to a yoke reg by way of a DIN to yoke CONVERTOR. I can convert my DIN reg to yoke in about 2 mins, and what I’ll have is a regular yoke reg.

The cost of a yoke to DIN conversion is about $35ea. If you decide to go on vacation and intend to use yoke valves, then simply convert your DIN regs to back to yokes. I would not buy the DIN to yoke ADAPTOR for vacations since converting back and forth is so easy. The adaptor is nice if you intend to go back and forth a lot between a yoke valve and a DIN valve. Otherwise, they are less than optimal.

I recommend buying 300DIN valves with 300DIN reg conversions. If you go on vacation, simply convert a reg back to yoke and set it up for a single outlet yoke valve -- no biggie.

How's that?

Mike
 
I would defy anyone unscrewing either a 300DIN or 200DIN regulator from a 200DIN valve while under pressure. THAT is a tough nut to crack.

I say, match your valves to your tanks. Put 200bar valves on 200 bar and less tanks. If you are running yoke right now, then buy the 200 bar valves with the inserts. That way you can upgrade your reg when it is convenient for you and you can still use these tanks. You get convenience and flexibility and are not exposing yourself to any additional risks. I do agree with the skinny on the OMS valve O-rings, but this is only a big issue if you have them doubled. Still, the Thermo and Dive Rite (as well as others) offer a great valve for the money AND they use captured style O-Rings.

Now, my PST hp 120 tanks use 300DIN valves... but hey, I just don't lend them out like I do my AL80s.
 
Originally posted by NetDoc
You get convenience and flexibility and are not exposing yourself to any additional risks.

What risk are you referring to, Pete? 300DIN is the least risky due to it's better connection. If you're worried about overfilling, just put in a different disk -- I wouldn't worry about.

Mike
 
I think I am refering to NO additional risks. The number of threads used between a 300DIN and 200DIN are to eliminate error if you should happen to try and put a 200DIN reg into a 300DIN valve. The O-Ring interface is the same and once tightened and the air turned on, there is little that a sane person can do to inadvertently loosen a reg that has been properly fitted in either type of valve.

As for the inserts, I really do think that they add flexibility and convenience for someone who is trying to grow into DIN. Thats how I did it, and I still have those AL80s with the convertible valves. I can let a buddy use them, or I can take the inserts out and use them myself.
 
OH, I see. I interpreted that differently.

I'm not sure I would spend almost $300 on H-valves that I might end up not liking in the future (ie. tech stuff). Your point of using the inserts with yoke is a sound one, but this could be a costly mistake in the future. The inserts cost about $30ea or so (I think) -- about the same as the DIN conversions.

If you're going to go through the hassle of buying DIN valves, then you'll get the DIN coversions for your regs, right? Probably right away. So, if you're going to go through all the bother, why not get the better 300DIN connection and convert the regs back and forth as needed for vacations and such? I believe this is the cheapest and most convenient way to go for both the short term, and the long term.

Mike

PS. Here's a pic that shows an OMS H-valve next to a Dive Rite. You can see how the Dive Rite uses the barrel O-ring style seal, and the OMS's face seal.
This pic also shows a left hand valve and a right hand valve. This is what you're after when you go to buy your valves. When you're ready for doubles, all you need is the center isolation part.

http://www.northeastscubasupply.com/tanks/h_valves.html
 
The inserts cost about $30ea or so (I think) -- about the same as the DIN conversions.
LeisurePro - DiveRite insert - $7.

In a similar vein, are Apeks DS4 DIN first stages 200 or 300DIN?
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/perdix-ai/

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