Does anyone know if the Trident A148 is interchangeable with the Sherwood ?

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

TT_Vert

Contributor
Messages
423
Reaction score
46
I am trying to find some LP seats but I'm not paying $13+ shipping for each one. I see that coral sea scuba has these two and was wondering if anyone has tried them. This are for my HOG D1s and I know the A148 works w/ them.
1756255851391.png

Thanks much,

Dave
 
Here’s an original Sherwood SR seat (red, R) and a 3rd party generic seat (orange, L)
3D3902BD-1F91-425E-953F-51FB00106988.jpeg
174B2A9B-6DA4-48D3-9160-545995B049EA.jpeg


The stem seems to be almost the same size but the Sherwood is just a hair smaller (shorter and thinner), but the brim of the hat seems much wider
And more critically the bore of the hole seems much smaller as well

I fear slight tolerance mismatch might constrict the air passage in the poppet and impact IP/cracking effort adjustment

It might work, but can’t tell without trying
Given that I only have 2 of these SR service kits, and how rare they are to get in Germany I’m not willing to try it out just yet
Maybe order one seat and try it

A viable alternative that could be worth it is getting the same seat (the generic one) from scubagaskets; for 4€ each, maybe get 10 and you total 50€ with snailmail shipping (or even split an order with some other DIYers Statesside)
 
Who makes that 3rd party seat? Or are you referring to the one I linked? Is the SR seat you mention the same one I linked above? I'm in the US so I'm not sure what shipping would set me back. The OD of that orifice shouldn't be a problem as others have reported similar things w/ the trident vs. HOG D1 and said they noticed no difference.
 
Who makes that 3rd party seat?
I believe Trident on the US side
I got the orange seat from scubamuseum (US), but they probably sourced it from CSS or Trident directly
The seats are (near, referring to exact materials, tolerances and microscopic surface uniformity) geometrically identical to the OEM Scubapro seats I have, and the generic ones sold at scubagaskets (which I assume use another EU source/mfg for them)

The SR seats I have are from a OEM service kit I bought „grey market“ as there’s no Sherwood presence here to get kits from, they’re not the trident ones listed above (but also assume geometrically identical)

The part that I have concerns with is the ID of the hole connecting pre amd post seat areas; if the OD of the stem is just a bit big to fit in the HOG poppet, and it squeezed the hole, it could block it completely; rendering the reg unbalanced (and without a strong enough spring, it will freeflow)

Edit: Btw, I just checked US shipping from scubagaskets is 13€ for snailmail (15-35days) or 31€ for express (2-6)
 
Another option is the scuba pro 11.250.221 is the trident tight in the HOG poppet or the SR seat? The trident A148 is confirmed to work in the D1 but yeah, if it's a tight fit into the poppet it certainly could further restrict that passage. The A148 does seem to have a larger ID hole which would be beneficial in that situation.

Dave
 
Could you please talk about stuff in the same order they are shown in your photos thanks

If only for little ol me!

Here’s an original Sherwood SR seat (red) and a 3rd party generic seat (orange)
 
A148 (orange seat in both your and my pictures) ≈ Scubapro 11.250.221 ≈ Scubagaskets seat
These will work for Al, Apeks, SP, and as you tried before the Hog D1
(i get the A148 for my SP regs)

The Sherwood SR seat I showed (red) ≈ the black seat (SVHV7030) in your picture
I doubt it’s a good fit for non Sherwood regs

Could you please talk about stuff in the same order they are shown in your photos thanks

If only for little ol me!
My bad, I natively think R to L
 
The main thing to watch for is thickness of the flange (flat part that the orifice seals against) it has to be close the the factory part or it will effect lever height.
 
The main thing to watch for is thickness of the flange (flat part that the orifice seals against) it has to be close the the factory part or it will effect lever height.
It’s a hair thinner on the Sherwood (sorry my caliper is out on „loan“ at the moment)
 

Back
Top Bottom