DIY Equipment

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Ok, my attempt at grinding the threads out of the maglight were frustrating to say the least. I tried using a die grinder, what a mess. :hithead: The inside of the head now looks like a mess of aluminum. I asked my Dad about a rotary fille and he just looked at wierd like what are you talking about. He's a wood worker though, not a machinist. Where can I get one of these rotary files? I have a 6 foot drill press with adjustable speeds to put it in. Well, I'm off to the store to buy another maglight to mangle. Any help would be great. Thanks :help:
 
Alright, I found a rotary file. I managed to finally grind out the threads on the light head. All I have to do now is install the cable and wire the socket. Thanks
 
Good luck and post some pics when you're done.

Scott
 
Is the original lens used or do you need to get some glass made for the top? If glass is needed, what thickness and type (tempered? ) is needed?

Thanks
J
 
Padipro, on your pvc cap for the canister, did you have to recess the bottom of it to get the switch and fitting in? I haven't found either that would be able to go through 3/4 thick plexiglass or anything else for that matter. The threaded shank on the fitting and the switch itselt just aren't long enough.:confused:
 
Padipro
Nice job on your projects. I have a question about your video housing. I built one that has maintained its integrity but have been concerned about putting any more holes in it which would be for the controls. Right now we are turning it on, putting the lid on then taking it into the water.

How did you handle the "controls" issue? Rods? and if so, how did you prevent leakage?

Best Regards
Don
 
Padipro

I am in the process of building your maglight head /canister.You have a great design there.I am done with the maglight except I am waiting for the Hayco watertight pigtail fittings to come in.On the canister did you use schedule 40 or 80?I was going to use the heavywall schedule 80 for pressure but I cant find a 7.0 amp 12 volt battery that will fit inside the smaller I.D. pipe, so I was going to try using two 3.8 amp 12 volt batteries wired in parallel and they will be stacked on top of each other.The only drawback I can see is that they will cost me more for 2 batteries...When I get it done I will post the pics of this and my Video Housing.Thanks for the invaluable info and for saving me big bucks!
Tom
 
Hay guys, sorry about taking so long to get back and answer your questions but I wasn't getting email telling me that anyone had responded to the thread.

J-valve...No don't use the original lens from the Mag-lite. It won't take the pressure or the heat. Use a glass lens from a rechargable Mag-Lite. You can find them at most Police and Paramedic supply stores.

dcostanza...I did that same thing for the first housing I built. It worked fine but there sure was a lot of unwanted footage to edit out after the dive. The controls in the housing are from Ikelite, you can find all the info on their wedsite www.ikelite.com. They are a type that are machined to bend so you can bend the shaft to whatever angle and length you need. They are a 3/8 pipe thread so as you screw the control into the housing the threads get tighter. I also used thread tape on the threads and put an O-ring under the outside collar that mated to the housing. I got a couple of small drops of water the first time I tested the housing in the water so I removed the controls, counter sunk the edges of the holes just a bit and reinstalled the controls. I've never had a leak since.

Tommygun53...I had the same problem you're having with finding a tube that would fit the batteries. 4 inch was to small and 5 inch was to big and very hard to find. The differance was I had already bought the batteries so I had to make them fit into the 4 inch tube. It wasn't easy but it can be done. Take the tube you're going to use for the canister and put it in the oven at 400 degrees for about 5 minutes. When you heat PVC it gets like rubber. Take another piece of 4 inch tube about 12 inches longer then the first. When the first is heated strech one end over the second tube, turn the whole thing over and slam it against the floor until the canister tube is flush with the end of the second tube. Let everything cool and using a hammer GENTLY start smacking the canister tube around one end to drive it off the other tube. It's a PITA to do it this way but it increases the diameter of the canister just enough to fit the 12 volt, 7 amp battery inside.

Check out this thread for more info on DIY stuff.

DIY Equipment

Any other questions just PM me and I'll get back to you.

Scott
 
Padipro,
Thanks for the time to answer my question about the controls for the video housing. We were using it yesterday (...WB416, got some great footage of you, I'll get it to you as soon as I edit all the useless scenes) and agree with the load of tape at the beginning and end of the dive doing it the current way.

You approach makes sense and would be more reliable than what I came up with. I appreciate your input as well as your involvement in this thread...getting a lot of great ideas on how not to re-invent the proverbial wheel.

Best Regards
Don
 

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