I've been diving in Akumal for years and hate to say it, but driftwood is right. The middle and outer reef are in a sadder state each trip. If I was visiting and diving there now for the first time it would probably be a one-time thing. Really is a heartbreaking example of how quickly things can decline if not properly cared for.
You will see turtles, rays and the occasional eel and octopus. Most sites don't have the big schools of fish anymore or much (if any) healthy coral, fans or sponges. If you go slow and poke around there is still stuff to see but don't expect to jump in and be wowed. Aside from the algae cover and so much dead reef, the structure here is more interesting then what you'll see in most of the Western Caribbean. No walls to speak of but the u/w topography of the tongue & groove and patch reefs is impressive.
I saw the Akumal feature in the current edition of Undercurrent. Knowing the area, the diving and the shops there pretty well it really made me wonder about the credibility of that "magazine." I'm just waiting for the experienced and demanding bunch that plan their trips based on what Undercurrent says to go to Akumal and see what they have to say.
