Diver drifts 40 hours before being rescued

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Aquanautchuck:
Wow, scary thought. I dive solo sometimes off my boat, but I hand set two anchors with plenty of slope. But...it still crosses my mind.

Is it scope or slope? Also, is there a handy dandy rule of thumb with the depth to calculate this, ball-park?

I occasionally do dive off small boats with no one on board, and it makes me nervous, because it involves some "trust-me" with whoever is choosing the site, etc.

I ALWAYS stay close to the anchor line (wonder if this would matter?). I literally dive squares around the anchor..... I did surface once off Calebra to...no boat, and had to beat a long path to shore. It is always in my mind, and I am always so happy to see the boat. Even boats on moorings can be a problem, they break. And, rocket scientist that I am, I realized they break when a boat is attached, not when one isn't!
 
Yes, scope is the term, probably just a typo above... the "formula" is generally considered to be a 5:1 ratio. The distance from the surface of the water to the bow (say, 4-5' on a small boat...) must be included. The more horizontal the pull on the anchor line/chain, the more digging in power.
Therefore, if anchoring in 30ft. of water with the bow heighth above the surface included, your scope shoud be 150' minimum. In crowded anchorages 3:1 is common but not ideal.( I sometimes use 4:1 but don't like to leave the boat (37' Motorsailer) to go to town with less than 5:1. If other anchored boats give you crap, comment on their lack of seamanship IMHO.

Commercial fishermen often use 2:1 but that's just asking for trouble. I set my anchors using 2:1, back down hard to dig in making sure the boat springs forward after setting, then let out to 5:1. We've been in some hellacious blows and never dragged. The only time we have dragged has been on an initial set when backing down. Try to back down with your stern pointed towards shore, rocks etc. so that your boat is between the anchor and a lee shore. (If there's an offhore breeze obviously that won't work.)

Using an anchor rated for a larger boat than yours is not a bad idea. Definitely have at least 3 fathoms of chain between your anchor and rope to avoid chafing/cutting of your anchor line.

Scope is the correct term for how much chain/rope is out and the angle of dangle.

If you use rope mostly (usual on small boats due to weight saving measures, "messengers"-additional weights with an eye for the line to run through can be let down your anchor rope putting a catenary (bow) in your anchor line which helps to keep the anchor in the bottom should wakes or surge be present.

Be sure to use a Bruce or CQR plow for sand or mud. Danforth style anchors are in my personal experience a russian roulette anchor. All it takes is for one tang to impale a beer can or seaweed on the bottom and the holding power will be halved.
After 25 years of boating in the Pacific N.W. my wife and I have seen countless Danforth equipped (or similar) boats drag anchor. Some swear by them but I sure don't. For newer small boat owners, do NOT use a mushroom style anchor like one would use for bass fishing in a lake. The don't dig into anything and it's just weight holding you in place. Suicide! Catherine, please don't do this unless you know you can reach shore.
The boat in any appreciable breeze will drift fairly quickly away-even with no current.
Even swimming around the anchor line may not allow you to swim fast enough to catch up.

IMHO diving from a boat without a crew member on board who knows how to drive the boat and do minor engine troubleshooting is also potential suicide. Even solo diving, with redundancy, you can be ok. Without a boat for the return trip home-there isn't any redundancy plus that gets kind of expensive!

Hope that helps someone, especially newbie boat owners/divers.
 
For new boaters there is a standard text called "Chapman's" that's been around for years.
Excellent anchoring primer and buoy i.d. etc. New is probably around $30 these days but lots of older copies in used book stores.

Important ADDITION: I should have added that after backing down with 2:1 scope and then letting out to 5:1 I always back down again if the anchorage isn't crowded. Remember to allow for that 150ft. behind the boat if you should get blown back tight on your anchor line. Make sure that your boat if glass or wood, has a backing plate through bolted through the deck and metal backing plate (sealed with caulking). Don't rely on just screws! (You'd be amazed how many production boats have only screws.)

Remember that once the boat springs forward, you're going to be pretty much over your anchor anyway, til it blows or the current visits. Catherine's observation about mooring buoys is also correct. Unless you've sunk your own anchored in the bottom, buoy, and dove on it to inspect it's present condition, they can't necessarily be trusted. World cruising sailors prefer to swing on their own tackle as they know it's condition.
Also, IF the boat left without you, it would hopefully drift a bit slower with your own anchor and chain dragging and if you're having the best of all possible good days, dig in again and stop!

Thanks for the PM Catherine. Let me know if you see the stuff I just added (via edit) here?
 
I have not checked into a Bruce anchor Jim. I dive a 16' Zodiac, usually in Puget Sound. It weighs under 1000 lbs loaded. I use 10' of 5/16" gal chain w/swivel on my 15 lb Danforth and let out at least 3:1 scope. My second anchor is a 12 lb Danforth with 6' of 1/4" gal chain. I always set two anchors. Yes you can drag Danforth's. Just two months ago I set both with 3:1 scope and during the dive one of those fast moving storms came out of the S-SW with high winds. I est 30 to 35 mph winds. Luckily the boat only moved about 50'. I guess I need to dig out my old copy of Chapman's and give it a good read. Thanks for the info Jim. And I agree do not use a mushroom anchor. I used one once and only once.

Charles
 
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