Just want to share a recent dive trip to SM, Colombia between 15-24 August '08. Fyi, SM is on the northeast coast of Colombia, more like the Atlantic than the Carribean.
Travellers who want to come in usually do so via Bogota first and then transit to SM (usually via Avianca or Aerorepublic, both reliable Colombian carriers....within reason).
The diving is actually done from Taganga, a small, grubby fishing village north of SM, and all boats head further north to the Tayrona National Park, where there is over 30 dive sites. Most sites were an approx. 10-15 min. relatively comfortable boat ride; however bring a hat, sunnies and cream, very few boats have top cover.
I should mention that i went in the 'wrong' time of the year when viz is not good and it rained ever afternoon after brilliant sunshine in the morning; no big drama, but according to the locals, January to March is the best time to go, although water is meant to be slightly colder.
I stayed at Rodadero, a small resort town, south of SM, which is packed with hotels, bars,etc...dived with a local girl, Natalie Pineda, a young marine biology student and PADI OWI. She runs a new dive op called 'Drift Dive Center', in Rodadero, you meet her in the morning and catch a cheap taxi to Taganga (approx. 15-20 mins and USD 5). She was a great guide, very friendly, knowledgable about the area and was good company too (even if she is a vegetarian
).
Once in Taganga, you have a choice of about 10 dive centers, of which , about 3-4 are reliable. We dived with 'Octopus' Dive center, an op run by a nice local guy called Andreas, although one of his DM's greeted me as '****ing gringo', trying to be funny i guess...generally, a good op, although the gear is pretty beat-up. Each dive trip is two dives, you get a small snack and beverages on one of the local beaches between dives, really nice too.
Did 13 dives in six days, nice and easy and was divided as thus: the first six , the viz was terrible (1-3m) although it did not prevent me seeing lots of stuff, when thinking laterally, i actualy really enjoyed the experience, it was good for diving skills and confidence.
The next six were fantastic, as viz had improved (between 5-10 m), lots of interesting coral formations and plenty of marine life to check-out; highlights included, plenty of eels (inlcuding one big-ass green one in a wall somewhere), watched several octopie swimming around, two sea horses, lots of the usual carribean fish (several massive angel fish of varying species), not to mention lots of large soft coral in all shapes and colours. Also, lots of lobsters, a few crabs, coral banded shrimp and lots of smaller stuff too.
Did an interesting night dive, with a young local couple doing an AOW course. The day ended with thunder storms and light rain, as we left the bay we were accompanied by brilliant lightning, kinda eery , but cool too, it added to the atmosphere. ..we only managed about 25 mins underwater in a place packed with intersting soft coral and weed, which made it interesting..espeically seeing the lightning flashes above.
Overall, diving in Tayrona is really good (and i have dived in Indo, Thailand, Curacao and Cartagena). Its different, life is cheap in Taganga, you can also stay there in small rustic kinda hotels. SM should be avoided, its grubby and lifeless, Rodadero is marginally better, although stay at the southern end where the hotels are larger (and more $$), have personal space and you don't hear music all night.
Despite that, the town (Rodadero) also has a kinda rustic charm to it; there's a cool reggae bar in town called 'Jamaica', had several relaxing beverages there after a hard day of diving, sleeping and relaxing, also got sexually harassed by members of the local female population (god, i hate that...i'm not a piece of meat
).
If you have a chance, i would recommend it, its a bit of an adventure, the place is laidback and the diving was a big surprise.
Travellers who want to come in usually do so via Bogota first and then transit to SM (usually via Avianca or Aerorepublic, both reliable Colombian carriers....within reason).
The diving is actually done from Taganga, a small, grubby fishing village north of SM, and all boats head further north to the Tayrona National Park, where there is over 30 dive sites. Most sites were an approx. 10-15 min. relatively comfortable boat ride; however bring a hat, sunnies and cream, very few boats have top cover.
I should mention that i went in the 'wrong' time of the year when viz is not good and it rained ever afternoon after brilliant sunshine in the morning; no big drama, but according to the locals, January to March is the best time to go, although water is meant to be slightly colder.
I stayed at Rodadero, a small resort town, south of SM, which is packed with hotels, bars,etc...dived with a local girl, Natalie Pineda, a young marine biology student and PADI OWI. She runs a new dive op called 'Drift Dive Center', in Rodadero, you meet her in the morning and catch a cheap taxi to Taganga (approx. 15-20 mins and USD 5). She was a great guide, very friendly, knowledgable about the area and was good company too (even if she is a vegetarian
).Once in Taganga, you have a choice of about 10 dive centers, of which , about 3-4 are reliable. We dived with 'Octopus' Dive center, an op run by a nice local guy called Andreas, although one of his DM's greeted me as '****ing gringo', trying to be funny i guess...generally, a good op, although the gear is pretty beat-up. Each dive trip is two dives, you get a small snack and beverages on one of the local beaches between dives, really nice too.
Did 13 dives in six days, nice and easy and was divided as thus: the first six , the viz was terrible (1-3m) although it did not prevent me seeing lots of stuff, when thinking laterally, i actualy really enjoyed the experience, it was good for diving skills and confidence.
The next six were fantastic, as viz had improved (between 5-10 m), lots of interesting coral formations and plenty of marine life to check-out; highlights included, plenty of eels (inlcuding one big-ass green one in a wall somewhere), watched several octopie swimming around, two sea horses, lots of the usual carribean fish (several massive angel fish of varying species), not to mention lots of large soft coral in all shapes and colours. Also, lots of lobsters, a few crabs, coral banded shrimp and lots of smaller stuff too.
Did an interesting night dive, with a young local couple doing an AOW course. The day ended with thunder storms and light rain, as we left the bay we were accompanied by brilliant lightning, kinda eery , but cool too, it added to the atmosphere. ..we only managed about 25 mins underwater in a place packed with intersting soft coral and weed, which made it interesting..espeically seeing the lightning flashes above.
Overall, diving in Tayrona is really good (and i have dived in Indo, Thailand, Curacao and Cartagena). Its different, life is cheap in Taganga, you can also stay there in small rustic kinda hotels. SM should be avoided, its grubby and lifeless, Rodadero is marginally better, although stay at the southern end where the hotels are larger (and more $$), have personal space and you don't hear music all night.
Despite that, the town (Rodadero) also has a kinda rustic charm to it; there's a cool reggae bar in town called 'Jamaica', had several relaxing beverages there after a hard day of diving, sleeping and relaxing, also got sexually harassed by members of the local female population (god, i hate that...i'm not a piece of meat
).If you have a chance, i would recommend it, its a bit of an adventure, the place is laidback and the diving was a big surprise.
