Diva LX - Weighting issues

[malleycat]

I was wondering if anyone else had a Diva LX, and if you had any problems with proper weighting? I just bought this BC, and had a very tough time figuring out how much weight to use. I know the standard test is to add weight, then deflate your BC....you should be able to inhale and bring your head above water, and exhale and go just below the water. Unfortunately, on our last trip the seas were just too rough to do any of that - couldn't even go swimming from shore, let alone figure out my weight issues!
Also - there are two pockets on either side of the tank strap for weights - what would/should be a good amount to put in there? I started with 2lbs in each (the dive shop suggested 5 in each...eeek!), and then 3 lbs (which seemed just a *bit* too much, as I was tipping backwards). I dove with a total of 18lbs on....that's a LOT! I'm 5'10", 135lbs and have a long waist - so the BC actually sits a bit higher on me than on most people.
ANY suggestions???!! Should I give up on my weight integration and go back to the standard weight belt (yuck)??
Thanks!
Liz

 

[Scubaroo]

Hi,

I weigh 210lb and wear a 7mm suit, so usually I dive with about 30lb of weight, in a SeaQuest Pro-QD (although I'm in the middle of upgrading to a Black Diamond - also w/i). So I wear 5lb in each of the back weight pockets to distribute the load. Those back pockets are also designed to trim your position in the water, and on the surface - having all of your weight in the front pouches on your BC can tend to pull you face-forward while on the surface. But having too much weight as non-ditchable (ie on your back) is not a good idea.

Once you get some calm water, you could spend some time figuring out how much weight you can wear in JUST the back pockets (with a full tank), and still remain positively bouyant. You want positive bouyancy, because if you have to dump your weights in an emergency, these back weights are non-ditchable! This will be 10lb or less (as you can only hold 10lb there). Then figure out how much extra weight you need to dive, keeping the original weight in your back pockets. You probably want enough extra weight to achieve neutral bouyancy throughout the duration of your dive (as you use the air in your tank, it becomes lighter - aluminum tanks will even becomes bouyant).

Trial (not error!) is the best way to find out your required weight needs - although someone can probably post a formula to help you figure out a rough starting point (I can never remember).

 

[Warhammer]

I good rule of thumb is to start by placing 1/3 of the total weight in the back pockets, with 18lbs that would be 3lbs in each. But you'll really just have to check it yourself and see. You don't want so much back there that it makes you turn turtle and you want enough to trim you out properly. You really should try your bouyancy test with an empty tank (500PSI). But you can do it with the tank full, then add 4lbs or so to compensate for the tanks postive bouyancy when it becomes empty. That's of course assumming your using an AL80. With full lungs you should float on the surface at eyelevel, and when you exhale you should start to descend. Remember to add 4lbs if you do this with a full tank.

My wife has a Diva LX and loves it. She puts 4Lbs (2Lbs in each pocket) in the back pockets pretty much regardless of her total weight. She says that's what works best for her, except of course if she is diving in shorts where she only requires 4Lbs total weight and it goes in the front pockets. BTW, she's just tad smaller than you @ 110Lbs.

 

[herman]

Hi Mally,

My wife dives a Diva as well. I just went and snooped in her log book to see what her weighting is. She is about your height and weight plus 10. She uses about 12 to 14 lbs total with 4 (2+2) in the rear and the rest in frount in salt water with no wetsuit (polar tech or dive skin only). With an AL-80, this seem to be about right for her. She does put the frount weights in the pouches first and then puts a glove in frount of the weight to keep it positioned a bit farther twards her back for trim purposes. I would suspect this is a bit too much for you (assuming no wetsuit) but it should give you a place to start.

I am about your height and weight (plus 20) and I use about 10 lbs in saltwater with no wetsuit and a AL-80. I dive a Ranger with added pockets in rear. I put 2+2 in the rear and 3+3 in the frount. This is almost perfect for me.

As others have said, the best bet is a good buoyancy check in calm water with an empty tank but I suspect these weights should get you close. One final thing, I don't know how much experience you have but new divers usally require more weight than experienced divers. Hope this helps.

 

[malleycat]

Thanks everyone, for your replies! I guess I should have mentioned that I dive with a 5/3mm wetsuit (I get cold pretty easily). Yes, I am a relatively new diver, so I guess I will require more weight I can't do the bouyancy test in open water where I live (it's a bit cold here right now! :cold: ), but hopefully I will be able to do it on our next dive trip. And Thanks for the tip about adding 4lbs to compensate for the full tank when doing a bouyancy test...no one ever told me that before!
Thanks again!

Liz

 

[Bob]

mallycat,
Do you have access to a YMCA, YWCA, or any heated swimming pool? You could work on your weighting, and have a baseline to work from the next time you dive in salt water. The pool time will also allow you to become more familiar with your equiptment, which will make your next open water dive go so much better. You might give it a try .:tree:Bob

 

[malleycat]

Hi Bob -
No, we don't have any YMCA's out here. We do have one health club that has a pool....but I'm not sure how they would feel about me doing a giant stride into the deep end with all my gear on!
If I do get my weight figured out in fresh water...how much more weight would I have to add for salt-water diving?

Thanks!
Liz

 

[Warhammer]

I've found that most pool managers aren't bothered by a diver and scuba gear. But you will probably receive lots of looks and spark lots of interest if there are many people there. Course always ask first.

Another point about doing the test with an empty tank, especially if you're a new diver or it's been awhile since you've dove. Most new divers are nervous when they first hit the water, that's not big deal and it's even good to be a little nervous because you're more likely to make sure everything is right, but it will cause you to require more weight to get down. You'll probably be breathing a little faster and etc. By contrast, most divers are relaxed after a great dive, with their confidence running high. That makes for the perfect time to do the bouyancy check. If end up doing the check in a pool, then at least spend 10 or 15 minutes in the water before doing the check. While there is no better way to determine proper weighting than actually checking it regardless of the cirumstances, there is a way that you can convert a proper fresh water weight to a proper salt water weight. It'll help you if you end up doing the check in a pool. After you've determined your proper weighting for fresh water, get on a scale with all your gear on, including your tank, weights, BC and etc. Take your scale weight and multiply it by 1.6, then divide that number by 62.4. That will tell you how much weight to add for salt water. It may not be exact, but it will be very close.

 

[sharpenu]

One common complaint from people who wear rear inflation BC's is that it pushes you over on your face. When on the bottom, this is a good thing, but on the surface it can be a problem. The main reason this is a problem is beacause most divers, especially newer ones, are overweighted. Weight in a rear infating BC is critical. Less is more. I currently dive with a black diamond, my buddy with a Diva. You should be able, with good weighting and a little practice, to float with little or no effort on your back with out using trim weight. Dive with the minimum weight possible. This also has the added benefit of reducing your air consumption because you arent lugging all of that weight around.

It sound like many of you could reduce your weight. I currently am 5'10", 220 pounds. I dive salt water with a shorty at 11 pounds. (AL80 tank)

The easiest way to convert fresh water weight to salt is:
total body weight+fresh water weight belt times 1.025 minus body weight.

Ex: 220 pounds plus 5 in weight belt in fresh water= 225.
225 times 1.025=231 so, 231-220=11 pounds in weight belt

 

[KC_Scubabunny]

Liz,

I also own the Diva LX. I was scared about the back weight pockets at first so I didn't use them because it was unditchable weight that I couldn't get too. Eventually I started putting 2 lbs in each (when I wear my 7mm I have too to get down!)

I dive a few different configurations but here is what I have found for weight. By the way, I am 5'7" and also 135 so hopefully the near size match will help.

3/2 mm suit - 6 lbs
3/2 mm suit and 7 mm shorty - 12 lbs
7 mm suit with hood, gloves - 16 lbs
7mm suit and 7mm shorty with hood, gloves - 26 lbs

I find that if I get in the water and fully flood my suit before I put my BCD and other gear on that I need less weight to get down and don't end up overweighted by the end of the dive.

Hope this helps!

KC_Scubabunny