- Messages
- 13,497
- Reaction score
- 10,159
- Location
- Port Orchard, Washington State
- # of dives
- 1000 - 2499
DIR setup critique
- Thread starter lost: the island
- Start date
Please register or login
Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.
Benefits of registering include
- Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
- A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
- You can make this box go away
Slight deviation from hoses and computers, but on-topic:
I would think a SS plate would be desirable in saltwater to offset some needed lead. I've only dove (dived?) once in saltwater, (I'm stuck inland with only freshwater), and I had a AL plate and I needed six pounds of lead to hold a stop with a 2.5mil shorty. I would have MUCH preferred a SS plate and only a couple of pounds of lead, which could have in camband pockets instead of on a belt, improving trim and streamlining. (I still used a belt at the time, I was a new diver).
I'm on a trip to Fiji in June and I'm dragging my SS plate with me. The only issue is do I drag the spacesuit along, or get wet? Might be worthy of a thread somewhere else...
I would think a SS plate would be desirable in saltwater to offset some needed lead. I've only dove (dived?) once in saltwater, (I'm stuck inland with only freshwater), and I had a AL plate and I needed six pounds of lead to hold a stop with a 2.5mil shorty. I would have MUCH preferred a SS plate and only a couple of pounds of lead, which could have in camband pockets instead of on a belt, improving trim and streamlining. (I still used a belt at the time, I was a new diver).
I'm on a trip to Fiji in June and I'm dragging my SS plate with me. The only issue is do I drag the spacesuit along, or get wet? Might be worthy of a thread somewhere else...
txapacheguy
Contributor
As far as the computer/bottom timer, do not forget about the dive rite nitek duo (there are a few on the classifieds now).
It does a pretty good job as a nitrox computer, can be used for recreational diving if you are thus inclined. It does not go completely nuts when you put it into deco, and can be put into gauge mode and used as a bottom timer.
They seem to sell relatively cheap on the diving forum classifieds, and the DSS bungee mount for them is awesome and inexpensive...
It does a pretty good job as a nitrox computer, can be used for recreational diving if you are thus inclined. It does not go completely nuts when you put it into deco, and can be put into gauge mode and used as a bottom timer.
They seem to sell relatively cheap on the diving forum classifieds, and the DSS bungee mount for them is awesome and inexpensive...
- Messages
- 13,497
- Reaction score
- 10,159
- Location
- Port Orchard, Washington State
- # of dives
- 1000 - 2499
I have 10lbs in camband pouches here in Puget Sound. Plus a bunch on a belt and a SS plate. 10lb in pouches is NBD but the little 17lb DSS wing would be maxed out with this much integrated lead. A 26-32lb wing would be better if you want to put lead in camband pockets.
Only 6lbs on a belt would be downright dreamy for me.
Ragnar
Contributor
HenrikBP
Contributor
Can't vouch for any other brand, but the Oxy hoses do indeed stretch - not a huge amount but stretch they do - and enough to vent. I don't have a materials analysis to prove it, I would bet the hose is made from a rubber type material and not plastic.
My guess is that the line you see on the hose is a mold mark and not a "glue line"
You're right about the faux corrugation though. The hose is essentially "thick discs" with thinner - and stretchy - hose connecting them.
Henrik
PfcAJ
Contributor
Its definitely a mold line, not glue. They still are sub-par and break in a way that just doesn't happen with real corrugated hoses. Run your finger on the inside of it, its just a smooth hose with little ribs on the outside. Cheap.
HenrikBP
Contributor
I suspect we read different meanings into the term "mold line" 
I've used that Oxycheq wing for more than 4 years and some 80 - 100 dives with no wear or cracking showing (I realize it's not that many dives, but it portrays my experience). It might be cheap, but so far so good <shrug>
In use I notice no difference between my Oxy and my H hose, but admit I don't yank my inflator hose much, and use the butt dump most of the time.
Henrik
I've used that Oxycheq wing for more than 4 years and some 80 - 100 dives with no wear or cracking showing (I realize it's not that many dives, but it portrays my experience). It might be cheap, but so far so good <shrug>
In use I notice no difference between my Oxy and my H hose, but admit I don't yank my inflator hose much, and use the butt dump most of the time.
Henrik
Agreed those hoses are garbage.
I work in a Scubapro shop and those hoses are all Scubapro uses on all their BCs, (even the new "X-Tek" line, which otherwise cribs quite a few design elements from Halcyon), and I can tell you that in the last two months, I've replaced five of them on customer BCs and our own rental/student BCs.
They all tear holes, (sometimes a single hole, often multiple segments), right at the point where the thicker "disc" part meets the narrow hose part. Every. Single. Time.
Some are old and clearly well-used, but I just replaced one on a 3-month old and brand-new looking Knighthawk a customer bought from us. I would guess it was dove, (dived?) maybe 5-10 times, at max.
I was tempted to buy some of the Scubapro X-TEK kit since I get keyman discount on it, but I'd rather buy Halcyon at full retail. I think the big blue H is just more well thought-out and well, "compliant". (The X-TEK stuff cribs from Halcyon big time, but Scubapro can't leave well enough alone and dicked it up, IMHO.)
LiteHedded
Contributor
the halcyon guys spend a lot of time trying to get it right
Similar threads
