DIR Fundamentals class questions

[black1]

Hello all, is it possible to take the Fundamentals course with steel tanks (not doubles) and with a Transpac (soft pack) instead of a steel or aluminum backplate?

Do DIR Divers not use single steel tanks? i understand about bouyancy but this is what i have already bought and i use the transpac because a steel backplate would have far to much weight (tanks weigh -16lbs full and -6lbs empty).

I was told that it is best to get a steel plate and al tanks, if i cant rent this then what, also say i did rent this and learned to use it only during the class but went back to my steel tanks and transpac since it is what i own, now my fundies has changed quite a bit with the different setup, is it possible to do a fundies class with steel single tanks and a transpac?

I dont use a drysuit, only wet and barely any weight (2lbs) with my steel 120 tank, i can swim the rig to the surface empty and no air in my (26lb lift) wing, does this help for the clas, thanks for your responses.

 

[coldsmoke]

From GUE.com

1. Tanks/Cylinders: Students may use dual tanks/cylinders connected with a dual outlet isolator manifold, which allows for the use of two first-stages. Students may also use a single tank/cylinder with a K, H, or Y-valve.
2. Regulators: One of the second-stages must be on a 5- to 7-foot/1.5- to 2-meter hose. One of the first-stages must supply a pressure gauge and provide inflation for a dry suit (where applicable).
3. Backplate System: A rigid and flat platform, of metal construction with minimal padding, held to a diver by one continuous piece of nylon webbing. This webbing should be adjustable through the plate and should use a buckle to secure the system at the waist. A crotch strap attached to the lower end of this platform and looped through the waistband would prevent the system from riding up a diver's back. A knife should be secured to the waist on the left webbing tab. This webbing should support five D-rings; the first should be placed at the left hip, the second should be placed in line with a diver's right collarbone, the third should be placed in line with the diver's left collarbone, the fourth and fifth should be affixed to the crotch strap to use while scootering or towing/stowing gear. The harness below the diver's arms should have small restrictive bands to allow for the placement of reserve light powered by three in-line c-cell batteries (where necessary). The system should retain a minimalist approach with no unnecessary components.
4. Buoyancy Compensation Device: A diver's buoyancy compensation device should be back-mounted and minimalist in nature. It should come free of extraneous strings, tabs, or other material. There should be no restrictive bands or "bungee" of any sort affixed to the buoyancy cell. In addition, diver lift should not exceed 50lbs for a single tank and 80lbs for double tanks. Wing size and shape should be appropriate to the cylinder size(s) employed for training.
5. At least one depth-measuring device
6. At least one timekeeping device
7. Mask and fins: Mask should be low volume; fins should be rigid, non-split
8. At least one cutting device
9. Wet Notes
10. One spool with 100 feet/30 meters of line per diver
11. Exposure suit appropriate for the duration of exposure
12. Double cylinders with isolation manifold, and appropriately sized double-tank buoyancy compensation device.*
13. One primary light: A primary light should be minimalist in design; its power source should consist of a rechargeable battery pack residing in a canister powering an external light head via a light cord. Primary lights should produce the equivalent output of 50-watt halogen/10-watt HID lighting or greater.*
14. Two reserve lights: Reserve lights should be powered by two or three in-line non-rechargeable ccell batteries, with a minimum of protrusions and a single attachment at its rear. The light should be activated and de-activated by twisting the front bezel.*

1, 3 and 4 answer your question. I left the others FYI.

Hunter

 

[rjack321]

Talk to your instructor, most have steel and/or aluminum plates to loan. While you <might> be able to take the class in some or even all of your current gear, you will get ALOT more out of the class by using the complete gear configuration.

 

[ucfdiver]

Just curious-- why pay $500+ for fundies to learn about a system if you're not going to follow the system?

 

[Gombessa]

There is no requirement for alu tanks or prohibition against steel. In fact, in colder waters where a lot of exposure protection is needed, steel tanks are almost exclusively used. The key is whether you can be properly weighted in them.

I would talk to your instructor about you gear. Chances are you won't be able to get away with the Transpac since a hogarthian harness is a big part of the equipment requirements, but as mentioned before, you may be able to borrow a bp/w for class.

 

[black1]

Yes i just spoke with the instructor, he has stated the same thing as everyone here, he says to bring my steel tanks to learn to balance in them i suppose and also that a Aluminum or steel backplate with hogarthian system is best and says i will find it much better for future diving. My question to you all is the same one i asked him (waiting for a return) should i buy an Aluminum backplate and hogarthian system harness so i can do 2 things 1) use it for my steel tanks since i bought them and this way my setup will not be "overweighted" by using a very lightweight al plate and 2) so when i use the al backplate for the aluminum tanks i can simply use a weight belt for the weight adjustment needed.....or simply buy a SS plate and hogarthian setup and use AL tanks...means spending more money obviously but so be it, thoughts on this please.

 

[Gombessa]

It's hard to suggest a BP purchase off-the-cuff, especially before you go through your weighting and trim exercises in Fundies (though I understand the chicken-and-egg scenario you're in). Is there a way you can borrow a plate (either AL or SS) at least for the first couple of days of class?

Sometimes it's not just how much weight you need, but where you need the weight. An SS plate puts the weight high, an AL plate makes you put the "missing" 3-4lb somewhere else.

Although an AL plate sounds more versatile, the common practice I've seen around here is to go with a SS plate first (especially for single tank diving), and then get an AL plate only if you need significant weight shifted (often when moving to top-heavy doubles). But the ideal solution for you is to have your Fundies instructor work with you to determine which plate is best suited for the diving you'll be doing.

 

[Reg Braithwaite]

I can give you the n00b perspective. I also owned a Transpac and dove it with steel tanks. Then I made the commitment to sign up for fundies, and purchased a used steel BP and webbing harness. I also had to purchase stiff fins and naturally my regs needed a new set of hoses.

So far, I can tell you that I've adjusted to each change and now prefer the Hogarthian system to what I was doing before. By the way, I am a very ectomorphic sinker and dive a S/S BP with single steel tanks, even when only wearing 3mm. I would suggest you work with your instructor or a DIR mentor on weighting, you may find (like me) that for a single tank, steel is the right choice and you will not be overweighted.

 

[Blackwood]

The weight difference between typical steel and aluminum backplates is on the order of 5#, so I don't think it will matter a whole heck of a lot from a "total weight" perspective.

Many people opt for aluminum plates so that they can put ballast at precision locations. If I have annoyingly head-down trim with a steel plate (weight distributed across my back), I may go with an aluminum plate and put a weight pouch down towards the bottom of it.

You have options either way. I don't know what kind of exposure protection you use, but based on your other posts I'm going to suggest the aluminum plate since it gives you more trim options.

 

[rjack321]

For FL, in a wetsuit, I would say an AL plate will probably be a better purchase. It retains a maximal amount of ditchable weight, allows you to fix trim issues by moving weight around, and its least expensive.

If you end up in doubles down there, you will probably want an AL plate. If you don't and just stick to single tank diving, having 4 more lbs on a belt or on the cam bands (whatever trims you out better or makes it ditchable if you need that) is pretty trivial.

You didn't say exactly what wing you own but if its 26lbs (and non-bungied) that sounds about right. You can probably use it with the hp120 and an AL plate.