DIN, Yoke, or both? What would you do?

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amajamar

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Messages
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Location
Middleborough, Massachusetts, USA
# of dives
100 - 199
I currently have 4 AL 80's and plan to go to steel tanks. I have been eyeing the HP 80's or 100's with the convertable valve. However I have the opportunity to get two 80's and two 100's used at a good price (not great, but very good) The only issue is that the tanks are true HP (3500 psi) and come only with DIN valves. (I was told that the 3500 psi tanks can't be converted to yoke) I have three regs with yokes at this time and I would need to convert them to DIN.

So, would you buy the tanks and convert the regs or would you look around for a really good price for the (HP 3442 psi) convertable valve tanks and leave the regs alone?

What are the pros and cons of each setup?

Thanks in advance!
 
I love my hp100. My lovely bride uses a hp80 and with our differing SAC rate it works out great.
They are both DIN and I don't regret it one bit. I also have a couple of AL80's that I use from time to time.

My regs are DIN and when I need too, I just use a DIN to yoke adapter. No Problem.
 
I agree with TeamCasa.

I started tech diving and converted some of my regs to accomodate the doubles. Now, a couple of years later all my gear is DIN and I have yoke adapters for when I travel or rent tanks.

It's nice to have a bit less to worry about/consider while you're diving, since the o-rings are much more secure this way.

And, you'll get those HP tanks! Go for it, you won't regret it. And if you did decide to change a reg back to yoke, it's very easy for the shop to do.

Hope this helped.
 
DIN exclusively, as I dive only steel tanks these days from my quiver or a buddy's.

If I travel and need to rent, a simple hex key and a few turns and my reg is back in my (j)yoke rig. I also keep a DIN to (j)yoke adapter in my dry box, just in case.


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Ken
 
I went to DIN two years ago and never regreted it. I switch over to yoke for vacations than back to DIN for local diving. Works for me. I also believe that DIN is a more secure setup, less likely to come apart if bumped. I could be wrong here so don't take my word for it.
 
Dumb Question..... what is the diffrence between 200 and 300 BAR Dim valves, and will all din regs work on both?
 
Almost all regulators are 300 DIN. The major differance is 300 DIN is a couple of threads longer so a 200 DIN can't thread all the way into a 300 DIN valve. Physically, they are both equally strong, it is mostly a method of keying tanks, regulators and fill whips so a LP tank isn't accidently overfilled.

Personaly, I prefer the 200 DIN valves because they can be adapted to yoke regulators and they are slightly less succeptable to getting the threads bent out of round.

The 200 DIN is more correctly called 230 DIN or 232 DIN because they are often used at 3442psi (~232 bar).

Many DIN valves of either version are actually rated for 4500 psi.

I switched over most of my gear to DIN about 25 years ago but keep all of the adapters yor yoke use with me. I usually put the yoke insert in the valves for a fill even if the shop has DIN whips to protect my threads.

Ron
 
thanks for the info, i have the opportunity to get a 300BAR manifold to put on my Faber LP95s. Just wanted to make sure everything would marry up.
 
Since im in europe, DIN is basically what people use and whats commonly sold, so when I got my gear it was the obvious choice.
This summer I took a trip to Mexico and although I could ask for din regulators I mostly ended up using an adapter between yoke tanks and my DIN reg. Its not all that much of a hassle, although your reg will stick out a little more. Personally, I didnt come close to banging my head against the first stage as a result of the adapter, but some claim they do have issues with that.
 
The only conversion you need to do is on your regulators. You can still keep the yoke on the AL80's. If (when) you convert your regs to DIN purchase a couple of yoke adaptors. That way you can use your regs on either cylinder. It saves a lot of hassle and it is an easy convert when traveling.

Good luck

C
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

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