The last DIN/yoke thread is 6 months old, but I'm an old guy (1987 card - man, was I handsome!) who is back after a decade away from diving. Catching up on stuff.
I get the O-ring thing.
For me, the whole thread didn't address the major issue as far as I'm concerned:
I think I'd like to trade in my LP steel for HP steel tanks to save a couple pounds on my back AND get more air:
Faber LP 80: 30 lb and only 71CF after you lose the +10% on a subsequent hydro.
PST HP 80: 29 lb and 82CF at 3500 psi. Empty buoyancy 1.5lb heavier, saving on my weight belt a little too.
I lose 3.5lb and gain 11CF/15% dive time.
And what if I want to extend my single tank warm water rec dives and get a 120CF tank?
Now the weight difference matters!
PST LP 120: Once I lose my +10%, my LP 120 holds 111CF at 2400psi and weighs 51lb!
Meanwhile, a
PST HP 120 holds 122.5CF at 3500 psi and only weighs 39lb.
PST HP 120 filled to 3000 psi holds 105CF and still only weighs 39lb.
I save 12 lb (empty buoyancy only .5lb different, so no lead changes), and either lose 5% or gain 9% depending upon fill pressure. But at a minimum, it's 34CF gained over an 80 for the extra 9 lb. Great!
So, how much air do you accept with yoke fittings? Do I have to go buy all DIN firsts to use HP steel?
What do all the divers with yoke regulators do when they buy a new HP steel tank?
a) only fill to 3000psi (yoke "limit") and accept the 87% of expected cu ft for dive planning (your HP80 just became a 69CF tank)
b) fill to 3442 and dive it anyway (but SP MK10 is a 3300 psi first stage - there goes HP O-ring, eventually)
c) try to fill it to 3442 but get shut down by the fill guy who sees the 3000 psi yoke you just took off
d) buy new DIN HP 1st stages
How do yoke divers with HP tanks do it?
I know I can't keep a thread from getting hijacked, but I'm really interested in hearing from those who've been there: HP tank yoke divers, or yoke divers who bought all new DIN gear to go with their HP tank. Cheers!
I get the O-ring thing.
For me, the whole thread didn't address the major issue as far as I'm concerned:
I think I'd like to trade in my LP steel for HP steel tanks to save a couple pounds on my back AND get more air:
Faber LP 80: 30 lb and only 71CF after you lose the +10% on a subsequent hydro.
PST HP 80: 29 lb and 82CF at 3500 psi. Empty buoyancy 1.5lb heavier, saving on my weight belt a little too.
I lose 3.5lb and gain 11CF/15% dive time.
And what if I want to extend my single tank warm water rec dives and get a 120CF tank?
Now the weight difference matters!
PST LP 120: Once I lose my +10%, my LP 120 holds 111CF at 2400psi and weighs 51lb!
Meanwhile, a
PST HP 120 holds 122.5CF at 3500 psi and only weighs 39lb.
PST HP 120 filled to 3000 psi holds 105CF and still only weighs 39lb.
I save 12 lb (empty buoyancy only .5lb different, so no lead changes), and either lose 5% or gain 9% depending upon fill pressure. But at a minimum, it's 34CF gained over an 80 for the extra 9 lb. Great!
So, how much air do you accept with yoke fittings? Do I have to go buy all DIN firsts to use HP steel?
What do all the divers with yoke regulators do when they buy a new HP steel tank?
a) only fill to 3000psi (yoke "limit") and accept the 87% of expected cu ft for dive planning (your HP80 just became a 69CF tank)
b) fill to 3442 and dive it anyway (but SP MK10 is a 3300 psi first stage - there goes HP O-ring, eventually)
c) try to fill it to 3442 but get shut down by the fill guy who sees the 3000 psi yoke you just took off
d) buy new DIN HP 1st stages
How do yoke divers with HP tanks do it?
I know I can't keep a thread from getting hijacked, but I'm really interested in hearing from those who've been there: HP tank yoke divers, or yoke divers who bought all new DIN gear to go with their HP tank. Cheers!