din valve question for blue steel tank

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Homunculus

Contributor
Messages
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Location
Avon, CT, USA
# of dives
50 - 99
hi all,
i just got a brand new Faber HP 100 rated to 3442 PSI (~247 bar). I was told by the store where I bought the tank that the valve is 300 bar. After it arrived and I inspected it, I believe it's 200 bar since it came with a "doughnut" for yoke regs, and it looks that there are only 5 threads, although hard to see. However, in comparison with my 300 bar DIN regulator, there are less threads on the valve than on the reg.
So my question - is it safe to use the 200 BAR (2900 psi) tank valve on a HP tank filled to 247 BAR (3442)? Should I buy 300 BAR tank valve or stick with the one that came with the tank?

here is the info printed on the vavle:
Blue Steel
06-10/353 S.o.S.
101120 (in small font) 3/4.14"

Please let me know if anyone is familiar with the terminology.

thank you
 
Hello

My steel 100 came with a Doughnut on the tank for yoke where you just unscrew it right? Did you look behind the adaptor part there should be in small letters saying what bar it is? Did you miss that all valves have them I think on the back of it.
Chris
 
200 vs. 300 bar are slang terms which have almost zero to do with the actual pressure capacity of the valve.

http://www.diveriteexpress.com/library/valves.shtml#dinfaq

Almost every E series (3442 psi) tank sold today has a 200bar/yoke convertible valve in it. It will be fine.

Despite this being a complete answer to your question I suspect this will go on for a few more pages...
 
Mikhail Frenkel:
hi all,
i just got a brand new Faber HP 100 rated to 3442 PSI (~247 bar). I was told by the store where I bought the tank that the valve is 300 bar. After it arrived and I inspected it, I believe it's 200 bar since it came with a "doughnut" for yoke regs, and it looks that there are only 5 threads, although hard to see. However, in comparison with my 300 bar DIN regulator, there are less threads on the valve than on the reg.
So my question - is it safe to use the 200 BAR (2900 psi) tank valve on a HP tank filled to 247 BAR (3442)? Should I buy 300 BAR tank valve or stick with the one that came with the tank?

here is the info printed on the vavle:
Blue Steel
06-10/353 S.o.S.
101120 (in small font) 3/4.14"

Please let me know if anyone is familiar with the terminology.

thank you


the 101120 you've got is a 3442 pressure valve. It's not 300 Bar.
But it's safe for your tank at 3442psi.


This can be verfiied on the Blue Steel website Valve page.

http://www.bluesteelllc.com/valves.htm


The 300 Bar part number is PN: 10113



The valve you've got to use is safe for 3442psi fills. A 3000psi valve is not. (but you've got a 3442). A 300 Bar valve is a little stronger, but isn't required for this tank. It's basically user preference at this point.
 
Mikhail Frenkel:
i tried to get to their webpage before to see pruducts -> cylinders but it has always been showing "coming soon", so i thought the whole website is outdated.
good to know that the rest of the site is up and running.
thank you!


Yeah.. I agree they need to get their website updated.


IF they want to sell more tanks, people want to be able to look up the specs on the tanks, valves, etc.

BTW.. their tank specs can be found at this page, if you're looking for those
http://www.bluesteelllc.com/products.htm
 
Hi, I have an HP100 with the thermo din/yoke valve. It is fine to use a 200bar valve with that tank pressure. Also fine to use with 300 bar gear if your reg has a 300 bar din screw on it since the o ring is on the bottom of the din screw. Just screw it in until it bottoms out, and there is your seal.
 
The "200 bar" valves and manifolds are more accurately described as 232 bar valves and many are marked that way.

They are intended for tank pressures under 3500 psi - so the 3442 service pressure of the E-series tanks is fine.

The intent of having both 300 and 200/232 bar valves has nothing to do with their being able to withstand the tank pressure. Rather the intent is to prevent a regulator approved for use at 3000-3442 psi service pressures from being attached to a 300 bar tank (with pressures up to 4350 psi) that could cause damage to the regulator.

Since the 300 bar valve is deeper (7 threads) than the 200 bar valve (5 threads) a regulator with a 300 bar connection can be used on both 200 and 300 bar valves, but a low pressure certified 200 bar regulator with cannot be used with the deeper 300 bar valve as it will not seal in the valve. This prevents stupid divers from doing something stupid.

But practically speaking, a 200 bar valve or manifold is just as strong as a 300 bar valve or manifold.

Regardless of which you use, be sure that the burst disc installed in it is appropriate for the tank you have installed the valve in.
 
DA Aquamaster:
Since the 300 bar valve is deeper (7 threads) than the 200 bar valve (5 threads) a regulator with a 300 bar connection can be used on both 200 and 300 bar valves, but a low pressure certified 200 bar regulator with cannot be used with the deeper 300 bar valve as it will not seal in the valve. This prevents stupid divers from doing something stupid.


When I pickup my tank from the LDS (most likely this weekend), I'll check to see how many threads are on the 3442 valve and let everyone know.


While I think generally you're right on anything with 5 threads being 232 bar, I've got a Dive Rite RG1225 DIN to Yoke Adapter that is rated for 232(or 233) bar and has 7 threads. So... just because it has 7 threads doesn't mean it's really 300 bar.
 

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