Difference between SP G250hp and G250v 2nd stages
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Packhorse
Contributor
Disagree
Buy them used and save heaps!
Learn how to service them and save heaps more!
Ah well each to their own
Used is OK, if your willing to do some reserch on prices, the seller, keep your eyes open for a deal, and except some risk
I purchased my "used" brand new, never out of the box, Mk18/G250HP for $230 .. though I do not plan on servicing it myself
I purchased my "used" brand new, never out of the box, Mk18/G250HP for $230 .. though I do not plan on servicing it myself
I go both ways on the issue.
A used reg equal in performance to a new one can be found for less than 1/2 the retail price of a new one and that can mean $300 in savings. Parts cost on a first second and octo can run $60-$70 per year depending on the model and the percentage of dealer markup on the parts, so in 4-5 years you break even on the costs either way. (cheaper regs like the Mk 2 R190, have lower parts kit costs so the 4-5 year thing still holds true.) So..if you swap regs every 3-4 years anyway there is no real advantage to ever buying a new reg. If you plan on owning it for a decade, it makes much more sense to buy a new one.
This can be an important consideration for a new diver wanting their first reg. If they are cash strapped and need a bargain, it makes more sense to buy a used high performance model than a new lower performance model as the price will be about the same either way and the used high performance model will holds its resale value where the new reg will not. On the other hand if the new diver has the cash and plans to keep the reg through a long diving career, buying a new high performance reg up front from an authorized dealer to take advantage of free parts and warranty benefits makes the new reg a much more attractive purchase even with much higher acquisition costs.
Doing your own service work may or may not be cost effective. Labor runs about $75 for a first, second, and octo and that is what you'll save each year. However doing it properly requires some basic hand tools, some specialty tools and some test equipment. The hand tools and specialty tools can run $200-$300 with another $200 for IP and magnahelic gauges. So again it will take 3-4 years to break even on tools and the costs of parts found on e-bay will run about the same to a little more than what you'd pay at a dealer who uses a 100% markup over dealer cost. So for the DIY approach to make sense, you have to have some mechanical skills in the first place and then ideally you have more than one set of regs to support (technical diver, family with several divers in it, etc) so it is not the answer for everyone.
A used reg equal in performance to a new one can be found for less than 1/2 the retail price of a new one and that can mean $300 in savings. Parts cost on a first second and octo can run $60-$70 per year depending on the model and the percentage of dealer markup on the parts, so in 4-5 years you break even on the costs either way. (cheaper regs like the Mk 2 R190, have lower parts kit costs so the 4-5 year thing still holds true.) So..if you swap regs every 3-4 years anyway there is no real advantage to ever buying a new reg. If you plan on owning it for a decade, it makes much more sense to buy a new one.
This can be an important consideration for a new diver wanting their first reg. If they are cash strapped and need a bargain, it makes more sense to buy a used high performance model than a new lower performance model as the price will be about the same either way and the used high performance model will holds its resale value where the new reg will not. On the other hand if the new diver has the cash and plans to keep the reg through a long diving career, buying a new high performance reg up front from an authorized dealer to take advantage of free parts and warranty benefits makes the new reg a much more attractive purchase even with much higher acquisition costs.
Doing your own service work may or may not be cost effective. Labor runs about $75 for a first, second, and octo and that is what you'll save each year. However doing it properly requires some basic hand tools, some specialty tools and some test equipment. The hand tools and specialty tools can run $200-$300 with another $200 for IP and magnahelic gauges. So again it will take 3-4 years to break even on tools and the costs of parts found on e-bay will run about the same to a little more than what you'd pay at a dealer who uses a 100% markup over dealer cost. So for the DIY approach to make sense, you have to have some mechanical skills in the first place and then ideally you have more than one set of regs to support (technical diver, family with several divers in it, etc) so it is not the answer for everyone.
R
redacted
Guest
If you are not interested in DIY and you plan to have your regs serviced annually, it just makes good sense to buy new from an authorized dealer and enjoy the savings of the parts-for-life program.
But if you do not service it annually or decide to DIY, then used (or discounted new) makes better sense in the long run. And, the "long run" may only be 2 or 3 years if you are supporting a number of regs and don't opt for a bunch of unnecessary special tools.
But if you do not service it annually or decide to DIY, then used (or discounted new) makes better sense in the long run. And, the "long run" may only be 2 or 3 years if you are supporting a number of regs and don't opt for a bunch of unnecessary special tools.
A note on the Parts for Life part .. you actually have to take it in in time for that to work
.. last two times I've missed the 1 month window and have had to pay for parts :dork:
you will be able to get the parts free if you make the service window the next time
(my first G250 was perchased new)
.. last two times I've missed the 1 month window and have had to pay for parts :dork:
you will be able to get the parts free if you make the service window the next time
(my first G250 was perchased new)
cagemaker
Contributor
What is the best way to learn how to service ScubaPro regulators?
I have the mechanical background. Can I get the proper information from books or do I need some "factory trained" equivalent hands on voodoo?
What books? What tools? What courses?
thanks,
Fred
I have the mechanical background. Can I get the proper information from books or do I need some "factory trained" equivalent hands on voodoo?
What books? What tools? What courses?
thanks,
Fred
pescador775
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What regulator(s)?
Several sources for magnehelic whatis if you really want that nonsense.
Once this co. fleshes out their product line one can buy tools here:
http://www.scubatools.com/c-12-scubapro.aspx
Rest of your question impossibly vague.
cagemaker
Contributor
Thanks for your reply.
MK10; MK25 first stages
156; 250; 600 second stages
Fred
MK10; MK25 first stages
156; 250; 600 second stages
Fred
pescador775
Contributor
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There are cheat sheets, diagrams and manuals for some of the SP regs. This will get you started:
scubapro manual regulator, Regulators, Buoyancy Compensators items on eBay.com
The MK10 is extremely simple but it can be tricky to remove the piston stem O ring. I don't recall exactly how it is done. A spanner is needed to unscrew the body. The MK 20 requires a small probe to R/R that O ring but the process is simple. Usually, an instruction sheet is supplied with the piston bullet and push rod. The G250 or G250HP require a couple tools and a service manual. The main thing to understand is that the parts are delicate. For example, drop a piston and it is toast, I know. Parts kits show up in various places. It is crazy to disassemble a regulator every year. Even a two year interval should be reserved for heavy users, light use-five years. If you really think a particular regulator needs service every year buy something else starting with a diaphragm design first stage.
scubapro manual regulator, Regulators, Buoyancy Compensators items on eBay.com
The MK10 is extremely simple but it can be tricky to remove the piston stem O ring. I don't recall exactly how it is done. A spanner is needed to unscrew the body. The MK 20 requires a small probe to R/R that O ring but the process is simple. Usually, an instruction sheet is supplied with the piston bullet and push rod. The G250 or G250HP require a couple tools and a service manual. The main thing to understand is that the parts are delicate. For example, drop a piston and it is toast, I know. Parts kits show up in various places. It is crazy to disassemble a regulator every year. Even a two year interval should be reserved for heavy users, light use-five years. If you really think a particular regulator needs service every year buy something else starting with a diaphragm design first stage.
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