Deco reg setups

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I doubt any instructors will go for the button gauge concept. They aren't very reliable, mostly just a full, half full, and empty kinda thing. I use one on my argon reg.

The standard or mini-sized SPG on a 6" hose is readable, doesn't take any room, and helps the bottle balance out better (butt up is good). You can't get a button gauge to glow in the dark, which is handy on dark dives. Also if you are decoing in a cave you might leave a bottle and you need to check pressures when you return.

I'm not sure what problem the button gauge is really solving? Its not like their even cheap.
 
Jimmer:
Thanks, yeah it is quite nice, we have a fantastic selection of wrecks in our part of the lake. It just so happens where we run charters to is at the deepest part of Erie, so the vast majority of the really stellar wrecks are between 120 and 200 feet, with only a handful of really nice wrecks in less than 120, so I have plenty of incentive to get my training. :)


Are you somewhere near Port Dover or Port Ryerse....that is wreck heaven...?
 
Diver0001:
The DIR style, which to the best of my knowledge is where the 6 inch hose thing came from, has a different kind of context. Think about diving in cramped space with 2 or more stage bottles all slung on teh same side. In that context you might not be able to lift the stage bottle up to see what the spg says. Therefore, at least in that context, it makes your life easier to have a larger gauge prominently mounted......
Actually, that's not why DIR divers like the large face gauge. In fact, the large face gauge thing is not really peculiar to DIR at all - it mostly comes from cave diving.

In cave diving we often utilize stage bottles, which are used to extend our penetration distance into the system beyond what we might be able to do on doubles alone. Stage bottles are considered "managed gas", similar to what's in your doubles - this means that they are breathed and monitored throughout a portion of the dive, according to some sort of overall gas management plan ("thirds", "half plus 200", or something similar). To do this safely, we need to be able to accurately determine cylinder pressure to the nearest 100 PSI.

Cave divers also frequently use a decompression gas to accelerate their off-gassing at the end of the dive. For deco gas, it's usually sufficient to know at the start of a dive that the tank has enough gas in it for the expected deco obligation. In that situation, a separate pressure checker (used at the surface), or a small button gauge would be sufficient to check the contents of the cylinder prior to entering the water.

So for managed gases, we tend to prefer larger gauge faces that are easier to read accurately. For "unmanaged" gases (such as deco gases), it's not strictly necessary to have a large gauge face, since you really only need to check things once at the beginning of a dive. It certainly does not hurt anything to have one, though.

HOWEVER, from the standpoint of regulator rigging, it's much easier if all the regs are configured the same. Cave divers don't typically distinguish between regs that go on stage bottles and regs that go on deco bottles - they're all interchangeable in terms of how they are set up. Since we prefer to rig them all the same way for the purposes of standardization, then it makes the most sense to use the larger gauge faces on everything. That way they can be easily swapped out if a failure occurs (even underwater if necessary).

And of course since a lot of the DIR philosophy is adapted from cave diving, we tend to carry that "context" over into what we do in our other types of diving as well.

Diver0001:
and because it's DIR they want everyone to always do it the same way, even if it's effectively just a pony bottle.
Just a slight clarification - we want "everyone on our DIR team to always do it the same way". Standardization of gear configuration is a key component of DIR diving, for a lot of the same reasons that I stated above (interchangeability of gear, familiarity with common procedures, etc).

However, we have no control (or even a "right" of control) over what you choose to do on your team - that is between you and your teammates.
 
Well the button gauges are substantially cheaper around here than a conventional gauge. To the order of 1/2 to 1/3 the cost of a brass and glass style gauge. So the way I looked at it, if there wasn't a definitive reason to have a full sized gauge, then why should I spend the money. You make some good points regarding the dark dives and readability, and you're give me a good reason to spend the extra on the brass and glass style, so now the issue become some shopping around to see how affordably I can get them up here.
 
texdiveguy:
Are you somewhere near Port Dover or Port Ryerse....that is wreck heaven...?
When I was cycling competively I used to ride my bike to Port Dover once a week for lunch and to enjoy the scenery on the trails there. I live about a 20 minute drive from Port Dover, and our charter boat launches from Turkey Point, and handles all the wrecks around the tip of Long Point.
 
Jimmer:
Well the button gauges are substantially cheaper around here than a conventional gauge. To the order of 1/2 to 1/3 the cost of a brass and glass style gauge. So the way I looked at it, if there wasn't a definitive reason to have a full sized gauge, then why should I spend the money.
If you only ever intend to use the reg for a single deco gas, then it doesn't really matter what you buy. However, once you add the second bottle (stage, deco, pony, whatever you want to call it), then that button gauge starts to look like potentially wasted money. So yes it will save you a little money up front on your first purchase, but in the long run it will cost you more because you will have to replace it later with something more suitable.

It's always much better to start off with the most versatile option in my opinion, especially if you don't really know where you will ultimately wind up.
 
Here in the US a button gauge is ~$60. A full size plastic guage just a bit more.

If you have a plastic gauge that's not too gunky you can use that. You'll be using high ppO2 deoc gases (50-100%) and so it needs to be clean. Its pretty hard to clean a old old gauge that's had lots of non-O2 silicon in/on it. Beyond sticking a Q-tip up with a touch of alcohol up inside the end. But a lightly used or new plastic gauge should be clean enough.

I use a plastic gauge with no boot on one of my deco regs. The other reg I got used and it has a glass and brass gauge (still no boot). Anyway, super $$$ glass and brass gauges aren't required for deco regs.

But if a gauge is busting your bank account, you should rethink Tech diving. You're looking at several thousand to get setup right.



Jimmer:
Well the button gauges are substantially cheaper around here than a conventional gauge. To the order of 1/2 to 1/3 the cost of a brass and glass style gauge. So the way I looked at it, if there wasn't a definitive reason to have a full sized gauge, then why should I spend the money. You make some good points regarding the dark dives and readability, and you're give me a good reason to spend the extra on the brass and glass style, so now the issue become some shopping around to see how affordably I can get them up here.
 
Jimmer:
When I was cycling competively I used to ride my bike to Port Dover once a week for lunch and to enjoy the scenery on the trails there. I live about a 20 minute drive from Port Dover, and our charter boat launches from Turkey Point, and handles all the wrecks around the tip of Long Point.

Cool....great area from some info. passed to me by friends.....I used to race USCF cat.3 years ago in my younger days....mostly road racing as compared to crits.
 
Jimmer:
Well the button gauges are substantially cheaper around here than a conventional gauge. To the order of 1/2 to 1/3 the cost of a brass and glass style gauge. So the way I looked at it, if there wasn't a definitive reason to have a full sized gauge, then why should I spend the money. You make some good points regarding the dark dives and readability, and you're give me a good reason to spend the extra on the brass and glass style, so now the issue become some shopping around to see how affordably I can get them up here.
A good brass-n-glass SPG is what ... $50 or so. If you're contemplating tech diving, that doesn't even factor into the "noise level" of what you'll be spending. It's one of the least expensive pieces of gear you'll be purchasing ... in fact, the gas you put in your bottles will probably run you more than that for a given dive.

I'll use them for the reasons Richard (RJack) described ... for a $50 piece of gear, cost certainly isn't a reason for me not to use one ...

... Bob (Grateful Diver)
 
Good point Bob. $15 for a deco bottle fill and $45 for the backgas is probably more than a gauge right there.

I just happened to have a rarely used plastic gauge that I put on my first deco bottle (a former pony bottle gauge). I cleaned out the inlet best I could (just to be prudent), but its been working fine for me with up to 100% O2.

This is a good way to keep an existing piece of gear and then upgrade your main SPG to a more durable brass gauge.
 

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