Creature from the black lagoon "Gill Man".

[CMAN]

Looks GOOD!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[3D diver]

Subscribed.

Cool, but surprised at the weight.

 

[Zen Diving Inc.]

Subscribed.

Cool, but surprised at the weight.

It should be about the same weight as the original. However I should note that the weight in this instance is relative to land/dry only. In the water it will be relatively neutral. Im using urethane rubber and 1-3mm neoprene or polyolefin. The reality is my total weight will be less then if I were diving in a drysuit, undergarment, 30lb weight belt (which is what I used to use) + tanks and gear... Honestly I wont have an exact figure until I weigh the finished product and i'm erring on the side of worst case scenario for design purpose's... If I can find a way to reduce the weight with out compromising the quality and durability then I will. Especially since the material I buy to do this is sold buy weight.

 

[Zen Diving Inc.]

Todays finished work ABS Molded.

 

[fjpatrum]

This is awesome so far. Thanks for sharing your process.

 

[Zen Diving Inc.]

After you're done making your mold, apply what ever compound you want to make your part from into the mold. Usually multiple coats are necessary to get the thickness desired. Then the hard part comes, waiting until the product is cured. In my case it was 16hrs... On a side note, some materials do not mix well with each other. For example silicone and acrylic do not like each other at all. The result of contact will result in a uncured gooey mess...

 

[Scarborough Diver]

Rebound 25 is amazing. Pretty much the only brush up silicone that I'll use. Because it's platinum cure, you'll have a longer lasting mold and would even be able to cast the skin in silicone and back it with something like flexfoam for an on-land costume. Great molding job. Did you back the rebound up with plasti paste?

 

[Zen Diving Inc.]

Rebound 25 is amazing. Pretty much the only brush up silicone that I'll use. Because it's platinum cure, you'll have a longer lasting mold and would even be able to cast the skin in silicone and back it with something like flexfoam for an on-land costume. Great molding job. Did you back the rebound up with plasti paste?

I don't like rebound 25 as much as I do the 40. 40 is pretty universal and pours great when needed (no-degassing) plus it goes on smooth and can be shaped fairly easy while curing. 25 is good for intricate parts (undercuts) but its really messy stuff... The catch with 40 is it tears easy if its to thin. Plasti-Paste is great when you don't feel like using fiberglass and resin (less mess). Sounds like you already know this stuff, so the extra details in this reply are for those who don't. Thanks, I appreciate your comment on my molding job. For this mold I used rebound 25, 40, Mold star 30 and Plasti-Paste.

 

[Scarborough Diver]

the tin cure silicone on top of the plat cure silicone didnt cause curing problems? did you use mold max 30 as the last coat? Tin cure silicones have been known to inhibit the cure of platinum cure silicones if the plat cure is curing over top of cured tin cure. the 25 i like for most of my applications (I do special effects and prop casting) most of my pieces have intense undercuts where i really have to work the silicone around it to get a good solid result. I tend to thicken the rebound 25 with thivex to make it trowlable for the undercuts and whatnot for filling in. You're dead on about the plasti paste, so much easier to work with but so much more expensive lol. When i'm feeling cheap, i'll just mothermold out of ultracal and burlap.

For pouring i like the mold max 30 for a tin cure and the mold star platinum cure. they both do well without degassing.

 

[Zen Diving Inc.]

the tin cure silicone on top of the plat cure silicone didnt cause curing problems? did you use mold max 30 as the last coat? Tin cure silicones have been known to inhibit the cure of platinum cure silicones if the plat cure is curing over top of cured tin cure. the 25 i like for most of my applications (I do special effects and prop casting) most of my pieces have intense undercuts where i really have to work the silicone around it to get a good solid result. I tend to thicken the rebound 25 with thivex to make it trowlable for the undercuts and whatnot for filling in. You're dead on about the plasti paste, so much easier to work with but so much more expensive lol. When i'm feeling cheap, i'll just mothermold out of ultracal and burlap.

For pouring i like the mold max 30 for a tin cure and the mold star platinum cure. they both do well without degassing.

I said Mold Max... What I meant was Mold Star 30, its a platinum silicone. Gonna have to edit that lol. Your right that combination would not be good...

I always put the mold max in a vacuum before using, too many bubbles if I don't... I guess it just depends on the application. Considering the cost of these products, I try to err on the side of caution and take additional steps to avoid wasting money...

Ultracal and burlap, now thats good way to say some $$$.