My wife and I recently completed a wonderful getaway trip to Cozumel for a week. During the trip we did a lot of scouting of dive ops, restaurants, and hotels. Since that is information that a lot of people on this board are interested in, I thought I would share the highlights. Instead of a day by day report I will just break it down into three categories for you to peruse.
Dive Operations
There are over fifty dive operations on Cozumel. They all vary in quality and price ranging from $50-87 for a two tank dive. If you want to dive an advanced site like the famous Devils Throat, you should plan on booking at least two consecutive days of diving with the same op. Pretty much no dive op will take you to an advanced site with out a check out dive to ensure that you are as good as you say you are. Most shops can do nitrox if given a days notice. It doesnt seem to be possible to get mixes other than 32% and 36%. Keeping this in mind, if you are going deep on the first dive you should do it on air followed by nitrox on the second dive. The following are summaries of the interactions that I had with various dive operations.
Papa Hogs
We had booked this dive op in advance from the states after looking at several recommendations through Scubaboard. The owners are Margaret and Mike. Margaret is an absolute sweetheart, but Mike comes off very gruff. It wasnt until the third day that he started to warm up to us. Their operation has five boats, one cabin cruiser and four fast boats. Only one of the fast boats has dual engines, but all are equipped with safety gear. The single engine 150hp fast boat was able to get us to Punta Sur in about 20 minutes. Their dock is located about a mile south of the main town and they will only pick up from resorts that are south of them. So if you are staying closer to town you will need to take a taxi. They have cubby holes to store your gear in if you are diving with them more than one day. The room is locked at night to protect your gear. All of the guides were friendly and helpful. I particularly liked our guide for the last two days, Gabriel. His dive briefs were detailed and complete. During the dives he had an uncanny ability to find just about any hidden life form. He even found a large octopus hiding under some rocks during a day dive. Finally, there is a great reef just off of their dock that makes for an interesting shore dive. You can rent one of their tanks for $6 and its not a bad way to check out your equipment and weighting.
Blue XT
This dive op is run by Christi, who is a frequent contributor to this board. I met up with another fellow Scubaboardian who was diving with her and he recommended we give her a call and do a night dive together. I called her, but she said she felt uncomfortable taking someone on a night dive whom she hadnt dove with during the day. She informed me that this was a standard policy of the reputable operations in the area. She also told me that she does not normally take walk-ins. She is pretty strict about her rules, but from what I heard she provides a really nice experience for her customers.
Dive Paradise
This is your basic cattle boat operation. They have at least three offices through San Miguel and their own dock located south of the town. They will pick up at the Hotel Barracudas dock in town and other docks extending south of town. We decided to try them because they were one of the few ops going out on Christmas day. That day was a bit rough, but when we went out it had calmed down. We had a total of fifteen divers, including my wife and I, and two DMs, Fernando and Pedro. The dive briefs were detailed and complete. However, their diver accountability method was a bit suspect. They had the new DAN diver ID tags displayed in the cabin, but several were missing. It didnt matter because they didnt use it anyway; instead they wrote the names down on a list. After the first dive the weather began turning a bit rough with winds and rain began coming in from the west. We pulled into a small harbor to do our safety interval. I recommended to Fernando that we should probably call the second dive. He just smiled and said, Well see. After about forty five minutes they told us to get ready and that we were going out. As we left the harbor I noticed that the swells had picked up quite a bit. They were averaging about six foot. I looked around at the rest of the divers and noticed several with the classic wide eyed look. The entry ladder at the back was attached by a swivel at the top and was bouncing up and down. Pedro was telling people that they would be taking off their fins and climbing up the ladder for reentry. At this point I confronted one of the Fernando and told him again that he should call the dive. As we were talking Pedro jumps in and the rest of my group goes. My wife and I decided to stay aboard. At this point Fernando goes in and his group went as well, luckily the four novice divers stayed with us. We were left with the Captain up top and one fairly nervous deck hand. In about forty minutes, the first dive group surfaced. I told the deck hand to throw out the tow line and that we were going to time the waves and pull the divers in one at a time. The first to come in was Pedro. He ignored me, took off his fins and was trying to come up the ladder. A big wave hit and he fell off the ladder, but I caught him and pulled him in. At this point he began working with me. He worked the tow line and I plucked out the divers one by one. Luckily we got everybody in with no injuries. Fernando was the last one I pulled in and he gave me a sheepish grin and told me I had been right. We returned to the harbor where we did our safety interval and they called taxis for us to take us back to our disembarkation points.
Go Cenotes
This dive op is located in Playa Del Carmen and is actually fairly new. They have been in business about a year, but are doing an excellent job. As the name implies they specialize in Cenotes, sink holes in the jungle. Cenotes are simply a dive that should not be missed and does not require any special training other than an open water certification. This operation employs an outstanding staff who truly understands customer service. Our dive master was Eric, an American ex-pat from Arizona. He gave a very in-depth and informative pre-dive briefing that included pictures and graphics and an explanation of the formation of the Cenotes. We dove with them for two days, seeing a total of three Cenotes, Angelita, Chac Mool, and Grand Cenote. Angelita is a dive reserved for more advanced divers, as it is very deep. The bottom is at about 180. However, there is an amazing layering affect at about 100. The fresh water meets a cloud of sulfuric acid (not nangerous) that is both eerie and fascinating. Under the cloud is sea water and the remains of the roof of the cavern. If you want great pictures, you can hire their resident photographer, Pietro, to take photographs. He does excellent work and is well worth the price.
Dining
There are numerous places to eat that vary in quality and price. Unless you are staying at a resort far, far away from San Miguel, I would recommend forgoing the all inclusive and exploring the local restaurants.
** Pepes
Tries to create a sense of high class dining, but only seems to achieve that status through price. The service was friendly, but not very smooth. The salads were a self serve buffet style and not very exciting. I ordered the prime rib (cost $30), which was very flavorful, but not served with the traditional au jus and horseradish sauce. This place is a tourist trap.
**** Ponchos Backyard
This is an excellent restaurant to find traditional Mexican dishes. The service is excellent and the expansive environment gives you plenty of breathing room. This place is a bit hidden. You actually have to go through a very big shop to get to it, but it is worth it.
***** The French Quarter
This restaurant definitely ranked as one of my favorites. The ambiance is very pleasant and the service was excellent. I had the surf n turf ($35). The proportions were perfect and deliciously prepared. The bill for two came to around $80 with drinks. This is a place that should be visited at least once during your stay.
** The Shrimp Bucket
As the name implies, you can get buckets of shrimp. I had the coconut shrimp, which was smothered in coconut, breaded, deep fried and served with a sweet chutney sauce. ($10) The wait staff was very attentive, especially so since all of the cruise ships were gone that night.
***** Guidos
This restaurant was with out a doubt my favorite. It is located along the north end of the main drag. When you look in the window it appears as just a small café, but once you go in you are led into the courtyard where the ambiance is delightful. It serves traditional Italian dishes with an emphasis on seafood. The menus are large billboards that are brought to each table for the whole table to see. It also had by far the most attentive and gracious service of all the restaurants that we visited. Watch out for their margaritas, they are potent.
Accommodations
Casa Mexicana
This Hotel is located along the main drag in San Miguel with a nice view of the harbor. The rooms are clean and provide all of the standard amenities, except an in-room coffee pot and, strangely enough, a clock. I would highly recommend getting a room with an ocean view as they are the best. The inside rooms look out over an inner area that doesnt command any privacy. They provide a full buffet style breakfast from 7:00am to 11:00 that includes omelets to order. They dont have their own dock, but a short walk brings you to one where you can be picked up.
Dive Operations
There are over fifty dive operations on Cozumel. They all vary in quality and price ranging from $50-87 for a two tank dive. If you want to dive an advanced site like the famous Devils Throat, you should plan on booking at least two consecutive days of diving with the same op. Pretty much no dive op will take you to an advanced site with out a check out dive to ensure that you are as good as you say you are. Most shops can do nitrox if given a days notice. It doesnt seem to be possible to get mixes other than 32% and 36%. Keeping this in mind, if you are going deep on the first dive you should do it on air followed by nitrox on the second dive. The following are summaries of the interactions that I had with various dive operations.
Papa Hogs
We had booked this dive op in advance from the states after looking at several recommendations through Scubaboard. The owners are Margaret and Mike. Margaret is an absolute sweetheart, but Mike comes off very gruff. It wasnt until the third day that he started to warm up to us. Their operation has five boats, one cabin cruiser and four fast boats. Only one of the fast boats has dual engines, but all are equipped with safety gear. The single engine 150hp fast boat was able to get us to Punta Sur in about 20 minutes. Their dock is located about a mile south of the main town and they will only pick up from resorts that are south of them. So if you are staying closer to town you will need to take a taxi. They have cubby holes to store your gear in if you are diving with them more than one day. The room is locked at night to protect your gear. All of the guides were friendly and helpful. I particularly liked our guide for the last two days, Gabriel. His dive briefs were detailed and complete. During the dives he had an uncanny ability to find just about any hidden life form. He even found a large octopus hiding under some rocks during a day dive. Finally, there is a great reef just off of their dock that makes for an interesting shore dive. You can rent one of their tanks for $6 and its not a bad way to check out your equipment and weighting.
Blue XT
This dive op is run by Christi, who is a frequent contributor to this board. I met up with another fellow Scubaboardian who was diving with her and he recommended we give her a call and do a night dive together. I called her, but she said she felt uncomfortable taking someone on a night dive whom she hadnt dove with during the day. She informed me that this was a standard policy of the reputable operations in the area. She also told me that she does not normally take walk-ins. She is pretty strict about her rules, but from what I heard she provides a really nice experience for her customers.
Dive Paradise
This is your basic cattle boat operation. They have at least three offices through San Miguel and their own dock located south of the town. They will pick up at the Hotel Barracudas dock in town and other docks extending south of town. We decided to try them because they were one of the few ops going out on Christmas day. That day was a bit rough, but when we went out it had calmed down. We had a total of fifteen divers, including my wife and I, and two DMs, Fernando and Pedro. The dive briefs were detailed and complete. However, their diver accountability method was a bit suspect. They had the new DAN diver ID tags displayed in the cabin, but several were missing. It didnt matter because they didnt use it anyway; instead they wrote the names down on a list. After the first dive the weather began turning a bit rough with winds and rain began coming in from the west. We pulled into a small harbor to do our safety interval. I recommended to Fernando that we should probably call the second dive. He just smiled and said, Well see. After about forty five minutes they told us to get ready and that we were going out. As we left the harbor I noticed that the swells had picked up quite a bit. They were averaging about six foot. I looked around at the rest of the divers and noticed several with the classic wide eyed look. The entry ladder at the back was attached by a swivel at the top and was bouncing up and down. Pedro was telling people that they would be taking off their fins and climbing up the ladder for reentry. At this point I confronted one of the Fernando and told him again that he should call the dive. As we were talking Pedro jumps in and the rest of my group goes. My wife and I decided to stay aboard. At this point Fernando goes in and his group went as well, luckily the four novice divers stayed with us. We were left with the Captain up top and one fairly nervous deck hand. In about forty minutes, the first dive group surfaced. I told the deck hand to throw out the tow line and that we were going to time the waves and pull the divers in one at a time. The first to come in was Pedro. He ignored me, took off his fins and was trying to come up the ladder. A big wave hit and he fell off the ladder, but I caught him and pulled him in. At this point he began working with me. He worked the tow line and I plucked out the divers one by one. Luckily we got everybody in with no injuries. Fernando was the last one I pulled in and he gave me a sheepish grin and told me I had been right. We returned to the harbor where we did our safety interval and they called taxis for us to take us back to our disembarkation points.
Go Cenotes
This dive op is located in Playa Del Carmen and is actually fairly new. They have been in business about a year, but are doing an excellent job. As the name implies they specialize in Cenotes, sink holes in the jungle. Cenotes are simply a dive that should not be missed and does not require any special training other than an open water certification. This operation employs an outstanding staff who truly understands customer service. Our dive master was Eric, an American ex-pat from Arizona. He gave a very in-depth and informative pre-dive briefing that included pictures and graphics and an explanation of the formation of the Cenotes. We dove with them for two days, seeing a total of three Cenotes, Angelita, Chac Mool, and Grand Cenote. Angelita is a dive reserved for more advanced divers, as it is very deep. The bottom is at about 180. However, there is an amazing layering affect at about 100. The fresh water meets a cloud of sulfuric acid (not nangerous) that is both eerie and fascinating. Under the cloud is sea water and the remains of the roof of the cavern. If you want great pictures, you can hire their resident photographer, Pietro, to take photographs. He does excellent work and is well worth the price.
Dining
There are numerous places to eat that vary in quality and price. Unless you are staying at a resort far, far away from San Miguel, I would recommend forgoing the all inclusive and exploring the local restaurants.
** Pepes
Tries to create a sense of high class dining, but only seems to achieve that status through price. The service was friendly, but not very smooth. The salads were a self serve buffet style and not very exciting. I ordered the prime rib (cost $30), which was very flavorful, but not served with the traditional au jus and horseradish sauce. This place is a tourist trap.
**** Ponchos Backyard
This is an excellent restaurant to find traditional Mexican dishes. The service is excellent and the expansive environment gives you plenty of breathing room. This place is a bit hidden. You actually have to go through a very big shop to get to it, but it is worth it.
***** The French Quarter
This restaurant definitely ranked as one of my favorites. The ambiance is very pleasant and the service was excellent. I had the surf n turf ($35). The proportions were perfect and deliciously prepared. The bill for two came to around $80 with drinks. This is a place that should be visited at least once during your stay.
** The Shrimp Bucket
As the name implies, you can get buckets of shrimp. I had the coconut shrimp, which was smothered in coconut, breaded, deep fried and served with a sweet chutney sauce. ($10) The wait staff was very attentive, especially so since all of the cruise ships were gone that night.
***** Guidos
This restaurant was with out a doubt my favorite. It is located along the north end of the main drag. When you look in the window it appears as just a small café, but once you go in you are led into the courtyard where the ambiance is delightful. It serves traditional Italian dishes with an emphasis on seafood. The menus are large billboards that are brought to each table for the whole table to see. It also had by far the most attentive and gracious service of all the restaurants that we visited. Watch out for their margaritas, they are potent.
Accommodations
Casa Mexicana
This Hotel is located along the main drag in San Miguel with a nice view of the harbor. The rooms are clean and provide all of the standard amenities, except an in-room coffee pot and, strangely enough, a clock. I would highly recommend getting a room with an ocean view as they are the best. The inside rooms look out over an inner area that doesnt command any privacy. They provide a full buffet style breakfast from 7:00am to 11:00 that includes omelets to order. They dont have their own dock, but a short walk brings you to one where you can be picked up.
