Correct bolt snap for Halcyon Scout?

[SparticleBrane]

I'm not sure I would say brass results in "minor slices". After a 2-hour pool session at school, sometimes my thumb has multiple large cuts and is bleeding. :shocked2:

 

[JeffG]

I'm not sure I would say brass results in "minor slices". After a 2-hour pool session at school, sometimes my thumb has multiple large cuts and is bleeding. :shocked2:

girly man.

those are minor slices.

 

[dumpsterDiver]

Brass sucks because it will sharpen over time/use. You end up with either minor slices in your thumbs or slices in your drygloves.

Where does it sharpen? I did have one brass clip wear completely through when hanging a catch bag off my belt, but that was commercial diving.

 

[Gombessa]

How long ago did you guys take the Fundies class? All the recent Fundies students I have seen (last 3-4 years) were taught "gate out". The reason is that it is much easier to snag the D-ring when reclipping the light. My own experience bears this out (in fact, I do everything that way).

If you took the class recently, who was your instructor?

My class was jan-feb this year. Gate out for everything because it's easier to catch the d-ring, gate in for backup lights because they're infrequently used.

 

[rainman_02]

MG, that snap is way too large. I use the 3/8" snaps and have never had a problem with thick wet or dry gloves. Put them gate out (that way it is always the same motion to remove any clip from your D-rings) and learn how to work them with your gloves on. Out-of-water practice is great for this. Only one band to secure the head.

As for deploy -- 1) flip band down over head of light; 2) turn on light; 3) unclip.

In real life situations where I have deployed a backup, I have left it clipped to preclude dropping it.



Reasoning behind the small bolt snaps: eventually you may have 3-5 snaps on each D-ring. It starts to get cluttered real fast when you have two 1" snaps for stages plus a backup light 3/8" snap on the left and a backup light 3/8" snap, a primary light double-ender, a nose-clipped scooter (if your scooter has a nose ring), a 3/8" primary regulator snap, and a double-ender from your SMB on the right.

 

[SparticleBrane]

As for deploy -- 1) flip band down over head of light; 2) turn on light; 3) unclip.

If you could do it, I would argue turning on the light before taking off the band or unclipping, in case of accidental dropping. But now we are really getting nit-picky.

 

[mikeguerrero]

How long ago did you guys take the Fundies class? All the recent Fundies students I have seen (last 3-4 years) were taught "gate out". The reason is that it is much easier to snag the D-ring when reclipping the light. My own experience bears this out (in fact, I do everything that way).

If you took the class recently, who was your instructor?

I'm glad you ask this because if you dive your backup light as a primary wouldn't you then place the snap as gate out?

I can understand the logic of gate in if the backup is not necessary going to be accessed on a daily basis.

MG

 

[mikeguerrero]

MG, that snap is way too large. I use the 3/8" snaps and have never had a problem with thick wet or dry gloves. Put them gate out (that way it is always the same motion to remove any clip from your D-rings) and learn how to work them with your gloves on. Out-of-water practice is great for this. Only one band to secure the head.

As for deploy -- 1) flip band down over head of light; 2) turn on light; 3) unclip.

In real life situations where I have deployed a backup, I have left it clipped to preclude dropping it.



Reasoning behind the small bolt snaps: eventually you may have 3-5 snaps on each D-ring. It starts to get cluttered real fast when you have two 1" snaps for stages plus a backup light 3/8" snap on the left and a backup light 3/8" snap, a primary light double-ender, a nose-clipped scooter (if your scooter has a nose ring), a 3/8" primary regulator snap, and a double-ender from your SMB on the right.

I went with a smaller bolt snap and dropped the other one for my UW camera/strobe...

It's still not 3/8 for my backup light because I intend to use it more often until I save my $ for my Halcyon HID primary...

Once I get my HID primary light then the bolt snap will become the 3/8...

Thanks,

MG

 

[b1gcountry]

I stopped by Lowes yesterday, and I was all excited to find that they started stocking the 3/8" snaps. I bought four of them. The downside is that their prices for the 3/4" snaps, and double enders have gone up since I was there last. All their SS prices looked higher, actually. I paid $3 for a Tee Nut for my argon strap. Now that was ridiculous.

Is Lowe's DIR and Home Depot not?

Well, kinda. Lowes has much better stainless hardware, although HD's brass hardware seems to be better. Most of my larger clips are brass, and I've never really had a problem with then cutting my fingers, but I use the stuff from Lowes whenever I can since it is pretty nice.

Tom

 

[rjack321]

Here is a picture of the Scout on my right shoulder harness, do you guys think the bolt snap is too large, should I go one size down?

Also I'm not that clear on where to place the two rubber tubbings, should I slide them all the way down on the head of the light?

Thanks,

MG

Mike, that snap is huge! I don't use snaps that large on al80 stages. I do use blue drygloves but not the compressed neoprene ones, just the blue PVC ones. I don't have a problem unclipping the smallest (3/8") boltsnaps on my backup lights. Reclipping might be an issue since my thumb is nearly as large as the gate opening on these tiny snaps but I have only used a backup light a few times in OW with gloves on and honestly I don't recall it being a big deal.

How long ago did you guys take the Fundies class? All the recent Fundies students I have seen (last 3-4 years) were taught "gate out". The reason is that it is much easier to snag the D-ring when reclipping the light. My own experience bears this out (in fact, I do everything that way).

If you took the class recently, who was your instructor?

I put backup gates facing in and all my stage (and primary reg) clips facing out. Seems to work for me, although I am apparently so far out of touch with what DIR is I have no idea if this is considered kosher.

Better method is to run your thumb down the side of the scout and hook the innertube and pull the innertube down and off of the scout. Now its easy to turn it on and then unhook it.

Yah, this is what I do as well. In case I need to restow a backup I keep the spare bungie at the top a inch or two below the d-ring. Cause once you push the bungie all the way down the webbing almost to your hip (with a 3 cell light) its pretty hard with gloves (or even barehanded) to use it again without taking off your gear. Or if you break the one in use and need to restow using the backup bungie.