Converting my DIN to Yoke

[Edge]

sigh, tried to remove the din part just now, don't have the strength to turn the hex key. I think I need more leverage.

 

[redacted]

Crescent or special socket required for 1" yoke nut like you find on Scubapro. Apeks uses a smaller yoke nut and I recall seeing an Apeks manual that showed a box end wrench being used. OK for disassembly and emergency use with care. I try to use a torque wrench around aluminum and brass. Over torqueing this stuff can be expensive and dangerous. If you are going to use a crescent or box end wrench instead of a troque wrench, I suggest you made sure you calibrate you wrist & arm with your tool of choice. Borrow a torque wrench and practice what X poot-pounds of torque feels like. And remember the O-ring is making the seal so if you go too light it may leak or loosen and then leak but can be fixed. If you go too tight, you may damage metal threads and suffer catestrophic failure.

 

[redacted]

First time I removed the DIN fitting from my Mk20, it required much more effort than I anticipated based on the 22 ft-lb torque recommended by SP. I ended up adding an extension to the allen wrench to apply enough torque get it off. Don't assume for a minute that is the effort you should use in installation. You might even want to try a little heat and cold (warm water and ice - nothing you can't put your hand in) to loosen it up. I'd try the reg (with cap & plugs) in warm water for at least 5 minutes followed by an ice cube on the DIN fitting for a minute or 2. Have the reg in a vise with the fitting pointed downward so water doesn't enter the HP chamber. You might even stick the allen wrench in the freezer for a while and let it do the cooling work on the DIN fitting.

 

[Spectre]

MikeS once bubbled...
I use the DIN fitting for my HP 120 tanks and switch out to the Yoke for rental AL 80s. Whichever fitting I’m not using I kit in my save a dive kit.

Interesting. I've not thought of swapping back and forth, as I was planning to convert to DIN and then use a yoke adaptor when using K-valve tanks.

Is the downsides yoke adaptor really enough to warrent the added risk of damage from swapping back and forth?

 

[redacted]

The adapter will leave the 1st stage about 3/4 of an inch closer to you. I found it annoying bumping my head with a Mk20 200bar DIN with adapter and Al80. 300 bar should leave a little less clearance. But I was always diving yoke so there was no benefit staying with the DIN with yoke adapter.

You may well find it to be not worth the conversion effort. Why don't you borrow one and give it a try.

 

[MudDog]

With Apeks regs I too have heard of using a 3/4" box end on the yoke clamp connector...but as this is a European reg. I was not surprised to find that a 19mm works much better...and if possible a six point box end as opposed to the usual 12. The 3/4 inch box ends I tried were a loose fit. And yes as has been stated the 6mm hex is right on for the DIN's handwheel connector.

Surprisingly, the recommended torque according to the manual is 12(+/- foot-lbs) when tightening and not 20 (+/-) as would be expected.

As far as part costs, the the DIN was $65 in New York State and I understand the Yoke is about the same (LDS price).

-MudDog