Compact Micro Converter (CMC-1) worth it?

[DiverGirl1972]

I have a Sony RX100II w/ Nauticam housing and for the most part, I take nearly all of my still photos with a wide angle lens and red filter. I don't use strobes, but I do have two iTorch video lights on my set-up. I have only shot macro once or twice (just playing around) since getting the camera and housing. I just focused on stationery objects and even those didn't turn out so well! so I still have a lot to learn. I was using a Bluewater +7 macro lens that I purchased with the package.

I am just a amateur photographer who is looking to get some decent shots with as little complication as possible. One day, I'll get around to educating myself (or take a workshop) on manual settings, but for now, I shoot everything in Auto.

At the end of the year, we will be going to Duain and Anilao and I wondered if it would be worth it to buy the Nauticam CMC-1? I want to have to ability to get some great macro shots given the location, but seeing as my initial attempts were not all that successful, is it worth it to spend the $320+ to buy the CMC-1? Has anyone used this and what were your results?

Thanks in advance for any help!

 

[ggibson]

I'm no expert on macro converters, but what are you hoping to get from the CMC-1 that the Bluewater macro didn't do? How did the pictures with the Bluewater not turn out so well?

 

[DiverGirl1972]

Good question... I guess I'm wondering if I will get far superior magnification results with the CMC versus just using the+7 lens I have now? As for the shots I did take, I took the macro lens on one dive while I was in Saba. The surge was pretty strong and it was hard to hold the camera (and myself) steady on the subjects I picked. The shots turned out kind of blurry...

 

[Cali_diver]

You might serve yourself better by buying a strobe. If I had to choose I would always choose a strobe over a wet lense/diopter etc. that being said my husband uses the cmc and loves it. It definitely has more magnification than a +7. Just remember the higher the magnification, the harder it is for the user since your depth of field decreases.

 

[ggibson]

Yeah, it sounds like the use of video lights could be the problem. Although I have heard of people using them for macro, strobes are much more powerful and will let you use a higher shutter speed and/or f-stop (to help with narrow depth of field).

Also, you could try taking the red filter out since it reduces the amount of light you're getting. Red filters can make a small difference for ambient light underwater shooting, but if you have lights a red filter is not really necessary.

 

[DiverGirl1972]

I do have a YS-D1 strobe, but because I shoot a lot of video, I have been using the video lights in lieu of strobes when I need some illumination. I know this is not ideal for stills. The strobe won't fit in my camera bag when I carry my camera, 2 video lights, arms, lenses and it's already overweight, which is a problem when traveling on some international flights.

Thanks to all for the responses. It gives me some things to think about. I think I probably need to work on mastering the equipment I have and get more educated on things like aperture, ISO, shutter speed, depth of field, etc... before I add something else to the mix.

 

[ggibson]

Yeah, I think you should be able to work with the video lights if you adjust ISO and shutter speed to capture enough light.

 

[Tbar]

Macro is hard, the depth of field is shallow and the framing of the image is challenging in surge or current. Using a strobe lets you have a faster shutter speed and/or great depth of field. Going for a higher magnification will just make more of a challenge.

On a dive you may need to consider is this video of macro dive, and use the best set-up. When on macro you can still take video, just no lights.

 

[DazedAndConfuzed]

Unfortunately, you got a housing that prevents you from using the internal flash. I've seen some people shooting macro with the camera mfg's own housing, which usually have a large diffuser for the internal flash that is flush to the front of the lens. When they take picture of subjects an inch or so away from the lens, it came out better than the few pictures I took with dual strobe (I might have had a disadvantage of having a dome lens, thus the lighting were mostly side/top). Of course, they had a camera with much better macro capability (some olympus P&S) vs my rx100 w/WA dome lens.

Also, as much as I hate people using it (especially when used as a dive maneuvering device), a muck stick would probably help you stabilize yourself when taking closeup pictures.