Cleaning Spare-Air Tank

[Isaac-1]

I bought a "like new" Spare Air off ebay last winter to replace my 15 year old beat up spare air. I just got around to testing it last weekend, I filled it from a tank with known good air, took a breath and almost passed out, after recovering for a few minutes I purged the rest of the air (I could smell the stench of it from arms length, unscrewed the top and found that interior has been comtaminated with something that smells like a bit too much like bilge water (fishy saltwater and oil residue). I did not see any pitting in the tank, but did see some mostly white residue (may be oxidation, but I don't think so, it is hard to see much through the very small neck). Anyway the question of the moment is how best can I clean the tank to get the smell out?

thanks Ike

p.s. this is for air use not nitrox

 

[Hallmac]

Mix a 1/2 cup of simple green with water and fill it. Let it set over night. Dump it out and flush the tank with hot water from the sink several times. Then take a known good tank and blow dry it out. refill it and see how you did.

 

[Rick Inman]

Place the spare air in HERE.



Actually, I know almost nothing about those things. Do they require visuals?

 

[redacted]

If you got a good taste then so did everything in the regulator.

 

[OH-JJ]

 

[NorthWoodsDiver]

Do your self a favor and clean it out and put it back on ebay. if you want spare air get a 19 cuft pony. I own a spare air but now I know its worthless. I can take it out at 80 fsw and get a purge plus 3-4 good breaths outa it before its outta air. do your self a favor and get rid of that thing.

If you are dead set on keeping it you "should" do a rinse and soak like mentioned and have the reg portion serviced and the tank should gets its VIP/hydro as is required. IF that taste was in the tank its in the reg.

 

[Isaac-1]

I did not want to start another flame war over the practicality of a spare air vs. a pony bottle, just how to best clean one. I have made my decision to own one or a similar device if there were a better quality unit of similar weight many years and over a thousand dives ago. For me it is all about weight and ease of air travel.

 

[Hallmac]

Place the spare air in HERE.



Actually, I know almost nothing about those things. Do they require visuals?

3.0 cf aluminum Luxfer. (Dot-3AL-3000).
requires hydro every five years and if filled at dive shop will require visual and eddy current testing just like a "REAL" cylinder.

 

[texdiveguy]

3.0 cf aluminum Luxfer. (Dot-3AL-3000).
requires hydro every five years and if filled at dive shop will require visual and eddy current testing just like a "REAL" cylinder.

I believe you may be mis informed on them 'needing' an Eddy Current test to pass or fail a yearly VIP. But please correct me if I missed that requirement.

 

[Hallmac]

I believe you may be mis informed on them 'needing' an Eddy Current test to pass or fail a yearly VIP.

nope not misinformed I have been clearly informed.
at our shop. Al must have eddy or no fill.

You have to remember there is no Law requiring a VIP yearly. everybody just got together and decided it was a good ideal.