We were diving with Damai in Raja Ampat and wanted to do an extension to dive with whale sharks. While whale sharks are almost always present in Cendrawasih bay, it is not easily logistically and there are no decent operators except for rare liveaboards. We found Kali Lemon resort online and here is our experience:
Resort:
The "resort" definition is quite a bit overrated. Overall our experience was a mixed bag. Rudy responded to our emails, although the replies were delayed due to lack of internet on site.
At the time of booking he was not completely open about the accommodations. We had understanding that we will have a separate "bungalow". He was punctual to meet us at the airport. However, the boat ride to the "resort" was very very uncomfortable. First of all the boat was just a long fishing boat with motors. There were no seats! The ride was 1.5 hours and not 45 min as we were told.
When we arrived, Rudy behaved somewhat awkwardly and we learned quickly why. He double booked us with another couple from US. Not only that, the "bungalow" which was promised to us was taken for that night by some people from "government". So Rudy took 4 of us to an open dining/resting area and pointed to four mattresses placed beside each other. He said that we have to sleep there. It was a bit of a shock for all four of us. For the amount money he charged, we were supposed to sleep together in open area.
The resort has only one bungalow, period. It was occupied by some local people, which Rudy described "government". After a short argument, the "government" started packing, the couple from US took the bungalow which had toilet but no sink. So we ended up in a small room between the kitchen and the dining area. It was clearly designed for staff, not for patrons. The room was exactly one foot wider and 1.5 foot longer than a queen size mattress it had. The sheet on the mattresses appeared not dirty, which was the only sign of preparation to our visit. Shower and toilette were outside, in a common area. There was no sink, we brushed our teeth on the porch. Our luggage, closing, cameras and diving equipment remained on the floor in the dining area. The tin roof heats up and the small room had only a small window with a screen. We had to keep the door open to cool the room. There was a fan, but funny, no electrical plug in the room.
Electricity comes on only after 6pm. I asked and was given an extension cord with several outlets to charge batteries and plug the fan. The staff at the kitchen were there all the time with kids. Therefore the area was pretty noisy. I had to let them know at night that it is time to sleep. Food was good considering the conditions.
Another issue was that the staff and Rudy were chewing betel nut all the time. They were also dipping it into some white powder............ I do not know how high one can get from the mix they had, but we saw them chewing it while on the diving trips as well.
Diving:
Yes, we saw whale sharks. It was new moon and we saw them consistently, every time we would come to the bagan. Sometimes one, sometimes up to four. We did dive and snorkel with them and were able to shoot video and pictures. The fishermen feed them and they circle around. This part was organized fine. Diving equipment was new. However, no small sizeBCD (my wife is petite). It was not a big deal at 5m. Snorkeling and diving gives you a different view, so need to do both for photo.
There was one incident though. The boat crew started fishing for barracuda while were were in water diving. I had to unwrap on the divers from fishing line and then saw that the end of it is attached to a 10cm hook. I gathered as much fishing line as I could and surfaced just to be more surprised. Rudy was actually staring in the direction of the fishing staff. He did not say anything to them.
Way back:
We learn that the hotel at Nabire is not included in the price and we have to pay extra at the overnight hotel. Need to admit that "Philadelphia hotel" felt like 10 star after Kali Lemon. A/C, white sheets.....
Then we needed to get extra cash to pay Rudy the rest of the money for the trip. The only ATMs working with North American cards appear to be from BNI bank. Paying the balance we brought up the issues we faced to Rudy again; overbooking, unacceptable accommodation, fishing line incident etc. He insisted that the resort is equipped to accommodate 5 guests, which was clearly not true since there is a single bungalow. When we demanded discount he started using threatening tone, which at the location had to be taken seriously. At the end he gave us discount of the overnight hotel in Nabire (~$40). He did come in the morning and helped us at the airport after the disagreement. We were so glad that part of our trip was over.
Overall:
Whale sharks are there and you need to see them at least once if you are a diver. Now, the way to see them can be more enjoyable. Remoteness of the location is not an excuse since we visited places in Papua high in mountains with accommodation at least 4 stars. We also saw resorts built in much more remote areas in Raja Ampat, all from spare wood. It only needed desire to do that. There were many wood logs onshore of Kali Lemon place. One needs just a chainsaw to build a bungalow. Minimal investment of literally 2-3 guest visits (considering the charges) could pay for a basic bungalow. Considering the amount of staff (who mainly did not appear do much) the place could have 5 bungalows in 3 months. Basic, but private with a shower and a sink. Rudy clearly does not have training, personality or much desire to run the place appropriately. At times, it appeared that the attitude was not just careless, but passive-aggressive to contrast western standards. Per night calculations are $900 per night+food+3dives/snorkel per couple. We paid close to this amount in Conrad Maldives, one of the most luxurious resorts in Maldives. Google to compare. there are other options at Cendrawasih: liveaboards and arranging a trip through local fishermen. Unfortunately liveaboards do not come there often and booked far in advance. Arranging a boat trip from Nabire can be tricky, but people reported on tripadvisor doing that. Technically a day trip can give a good exposure to whale sharks.
Resort:
The "resort" definition is quite a bit overrated. Overall our experience was a mixed bag. Rudy responded to our emails, although the replies were delayed due to lack of internet on site.
At the time of booking he was not completely open about the accommodations. We had understanding that we will have a separate "bungalow". He was punctual to meet us at the airport. However, the boat ride to the "resort" was very very uncomfortable. First of all the boat was just a long fishing boat with motors. There were no seats! The ride was 1.5 hours and not 45 min as we were told.
When we arrived, Rudy behaved somewhat awkwardly and we learned quickly why. He double booked us with another couple from US. Not only that, the "bungalow" which was promised to us was taken for that night by some people from "government". So Rudy took 4 of us to an open dining/resting area and pointed to four mattresses placed beside each other. He said that we have to sleep there. It was a bit of a shock for all four of us. For the amount money he charged, we were supposed to sleep together in open area.
The resort has only one bungalow, period. It was occupied by some local people, which Rudy described "government". After a short argument, the "government" started packing, the couple from US took the bungalow which had toilet but no sink. So we ended up in a small room between the kitchen and the dining area. It was clearly designed for staff, not for patrons. The room was exactly one foot wider and 1.5 foot longer than a queen size mattress it had. The sheet on the mattresses appeared not dirty, which was the only sign of preparation to our visit. Shower and toilette were outside, in a common area. There was no sink, we brushed our teeth on the porch. Our luggage, closing, cameras and diving equipment remained on the floor in the dining area. The tin roof heats up and the small room had only a small window with a screen. We had to keep the door open to cool the room. There was a fan, but funny, no electrical plug in the room.
Electricity comes on only after 6pm. I asked and was given an extension cord with several outlets to charge batteries and plug the fan. The staff at the kitchen were there all the time with kids. Therefore the area was pretty noisy. I had to let them know at night that it is time to sleep. Food was good considering the conditions.
Another issue was that the staff and Rudy were chewing betel nut all the time. They were also dipping it into some white powder............ I do not know how high one can get from the mix they had, but we saw them chewing it while on the diving trips as well.
Diving:
Yes, we saw whale sharks. It was new moon and we saw them consistently, every time we would come to the bagan. Sometimes one, sometimes up to four. We did dive and snorkel with them and were able to shoot video and pictures. The fishermen feed them and they circle around. This part was organized fine. Diving equipment was new. However, no small sizeBCD (my wife is petite). It was not a big deal at 5m. Snorkeling and diving gives you a different view, so need to do both for photo.
There was one incident though. The boat crew started fishing for barracuda while were were in water diving. I had to unwrap on the divers from fishing line and then saw that the end of it is attached to a 10cm hook. I gathered as much fishing line as I could and surfaced just to be more surprised. Rudy was actually staring in the direction of the fishing staff. He did not say anything to them.
Way back:
We learn that the hotel at Nabire is not included in the price and we have to pay extra at the overnight hotel. Need to admit that "Philadelphia hotel" felt like 10 star after Kali Lemon. A/C, white sheets.....
Then we needed to get extra cash to pay Rudy the rest of the money for the trip. The only ATMs working with North American cards appear to be from BNI bank. Paying the balance we brought up the issues we faced to Rudy again; overbooking, unacceptable accommodation, fishing line incident etc. He insisted that the resort is equipped to accommodate 5 guests, which was clearly not true since there is a single bungalow. When we demanded discount he started using threatening tone, which at the location had to be taken seriously. At the end he gave us discount of the overnight hotel in Nabire (~$40). He did come in the morning and helped us at the airport after the disagreement. We were so glad that part of our trip was over.
Overall:
Whale sharks are there and you need to see them at least once if you are a diver. Now, the way to see them can be more enjoyable. Remoteness of the location is not an excuse since we visited places in Papua high in mountains with accommodation at least 4 stars. We also saw resorts built in much more remote areas in Raja Ampat, all from spare wood. It only needed desire to do that. There were many wood logs onshore of Kali Lemon place. One needs just a chainsaw to build a bungalow. Minimal investment of literally 2-3 guest visits (considering the charges) could pay for a basic bungalow. Considering the amount of staff (who mainly did not appear do much) the place could have 5 bungalows in 3 months. Basic, but private with a shower and a sink. Rudy clearly does not have training, personality or much desire to run the place appropriately. At times, it appeared that the attitude was not just careless, but passive-aggressive to contrast western standards. Per night calculations are $900 per night+food+3dives/snorkel per couple. We paid close to this amount in Conrad Maldives, one of the most luxurious resorts in Maldives. Google to compare. there are other options at Cendrawasih: liveaboards and arranging a trip through local fishermen. Unfortunately liveaboards do not come there often and booked far in advance. Arranging a boat trip from Nabire can be tricky, but people reported on tripadvisor doing that. Technically a day trip can give a good exposure to whale sharks.
