Cayos Cochinos, Utila, or Guanaja?

[Alyeska123]

Hi,

We will be leaving in a couple of weeks for Honduras and haven't decided which of the islands to go diving from. I've been to Roatan before and while it was great, I'd like to visit one of the other islands. We would prefer something remote and low key but not too expensive as we'll be traveling throughout Honduras for a month. Any advice would be greatly appreciated! Thank you!

 

[Dave C]

Do you live in Alaska? I'm from Juneau.

Utila is probably where you want to go. It's relatively cheap and has many options for lodging and dive operations. The Cayos Cochinos are gorgeous, but the only place to stay is a small resort on one of the islands. Guanaja is supposed to be beautiful also (I haven't actually been there), but there are only a couple of places to stay. It was devastated by a hurricane several years and tourism there has not fully recovered.

I went to Roatan two years ago and took day trips to both Utila and the Cayos Cochinos. I was surprised to find that Utila town was much more picturesque and better maintained than any of the towns on Roatan. Many of the houses were freshly painted and there seemed to be a pride of community that Roatan lacked.

If you do decide to go to Utila, I highly recommend taking a day trip to the Cayos Cochinos. Some of the dive operations on Utila may run trips there if the weather is nice. It's a long boat ride, and it wouldn't be pleasant if the weather is rough. There is a Garifuna fishing village on one of the cays where we stopped to eat lunch that was an interesting glimpse into a completely different way of life.

 

[Alyeska123]

Yes, we live in Anchorage. My partner is from Juneau. From everything I've read Utila seems more touristy and crowded than what we are looking for. With all of those new divers, I wonder if the condition of the surrounding dive sites have been compromised. We are leaning more toward cayos and Guanaja even though they cost more.

 

[hopefulist]

We loved Utila and we loved Roatán and we're heading back to the islands for 2-3 weeks this summer. We'll spend a week of it on Utila but not sure about the rest. Please post a detailed trip report when you get back. Happy trails!

 

[Alyeska123]

Hi, you and I exchanged some messages about Glovers (loved my stay there) earlier this year. I noticed that you posted some inquiries about Guanaja. I like the "remoteness" of Guanaja but haven't read many positive things about the diving. Are there places in Utila where you can get away from the crowds? What is the condition of the reef and visibility? Thanks! PS: Did you ever make it back to Glover's?

 

[Doc]

Yes, we live in Anchorage. From everything I've read Utila seems more touristy and crowded than what we are looking for.

Utila is hardly touristy or crowded, but if you want real off the beaten path- sure- go to Cayos.

I am reminded of my visit to your namesake, Alyeska Resort. We came into your town, Anchorage, to see the ceremonial start of the Ididadog Sled Race. The streets were absolutely jam packed. Some crusty looking locals picked their way along muttering under their breath- on the sheer edge of going Postal over the pressing crowds. Even Steven Speilberg was there. An hour later, the streets were absolutely deserted. So, I might understand what you want in terms of not "toursty or crowded".

With all of those new divers, I wonder if the condition of the surrounding dive sites have been compromised.

Remeber- it isn't the volume of divers, clumsy or not- it's the sedimentary run-off from development. The best condition for these local shallow reefs to grow was on the South side of Roatan, stretching from Dixon Cove to Calvin's Crack. (The airport to Oak ridge). Unfortunately, this is beginning to feel the effects of development. Such reef structure on Utila are smaller in concentration and size.

I like the "remoteness" of Guanaja but haven't read many positive things about the diving.

Divers have not returned in the same numbers only and precisely because the two larger resorts were fairly well devastated after Hurican Mitch in 1998. I can assure you that the diving is quite good, although limited in service by only a few very small operations. Check out Dunbar Rock. Remote enough for ya? VILLA at DUNBAR ROCK: Guanaja, Bay Islands, Honduras. The connections to get there from Roatan make the travel time expand comparatively. (same issue with Cayos)

Are there places in Utila where you can get away from the crowds?

The population center of Utila is concentrated in a small area. The rest of the island is undeveloped. It still aint Grand Central Station.

I would highly recommend a trip there now as it will change very soon.

There is a resort on Roatan down in Oak Ridge Barrys Homepage , that although too primitive for most tastes here, might be right up your alley.

If you want remote and unspoiled, also consider Los Roques and Speyside, Tobago. There are many other great dive locations in the Caribbean, but they are poorly served by dive ops- if at all.

As I said- go now before it gets any worse.

 

[hopefulist]

Yes, I remember you. We haven't made it back to Glover's yet, maybe summer 2009; I've already scoped out the full moons that summer and we're hoping to get as many of our kids (3 plus son-in-law) down there as possible. Definitely someday!

Utila is really different from Glover's in so many ways. Viz was good, I thought the diving was great but give Glover's the edge; it was 2 years in between, though, and at the time they were the only 2 places I'd ever been diving. Also, I did my Advanced Open Water Cert there and didn't ever make it to the goodies on the east and north sides of the island. I'm really just not experienced enough to help you with things like reef condition unless it's very obvious - every time I'm submerged I'm happy as a clam.

My husband and I stayed at Freddy's place, a budget apartment just over the bridge toward the old airport. It's a quieter part of town and we did most of our own cooking. We ate out twice but avoided the "night life" some crave. I was up early to dive daily, ate lunch with Mike in the apartment, headed to the Spanish school for 4 hours every afternoon, and studied my dive book and did Spanish homework unless I was doing a night dive. The fact that it's a popular place didn't bother me - though I was too busy to explore much. My husband loved the flyfishing and it didn't take much convincing for me to want to return there.

We might try Guanaja as a compliment to Utila, though we loved Roatán, too. I've heard the diving is good and distinctive on Guanaja and like the idea of getting a bit off the beaten path. I think we'd stay at Bo's Island House or spend a week there and a few days at Graham's Place. Maybe it's your turn to go first and fill ME in.

My photos and travelogues are here if you're interested in reading more about our trips. Happy trails!

Bo Bush's Island House
Guanaja, Grahams Place Honduras, Guanaja

 

[SoSiouxme]

If you really want to get off the beaten path...you could charter a boat. There a couple that run out of Roatan/Utila and go to Cayos, Guanaja and some go as far as Belize. You could set your own itinerary and get fills along the way.

This would probably only make sense if you were really comfortable with diving without a DM and your navagation skills were pretty good (although a good captain will watch your bubbles and follow along.)

The last time I was in Roatan, we chartered a boat for a couple of days to go to Cayos. It was nice to get away from the masses for a few days.

--Sioux

 

[Deltadon]

hi there
i took my first course in Utila in 2000, and it remains one of my favourites - we'll be there from the 16th to the 22nd of Feb - the diving is terrific - we use Underwater Vision, but all shops are fine
-look for us at Bayview Hotel if you get there
Ernie and Dan

 

[Deltadon]

Please send along some info re diving on Cayos Cochinos - I'll be there this weekend
cheers
ernie