Can't afford Strobe! Would a headlamp help?

[Mystic]

HuuUuullo!

I have questions , but first here's my background:

I'm going diving in Cozumel (@ end of July), and I'll be taking a camera with me for the first time. I'm a student and I don't have any money, I'm actually already severely in debt.

That being said, here's my setup so far

Fuji e900 - Ikelite housing
(I'll try to purchase AD-Mount, and INON macro lenses)
(^^ I need to sell stuff to be able to buy these items)

.. and I'll make my own DIY tray and handle

I've spent the last 8 hours reading everything I could on the subject..
I can't afford a strobe right now and I've come to the conclusion that I don't want to buy a cheap one, I'd rather wait to be able to buy a good one (but, that wont be before my vacation).

If you throw into the equation that I'm an inexperience diver (just got certified), I'm not sure that I want to have to deal with the strobe anyway right now.. (I think I'll have my hands full with controlling my buoyancy) :11:

Anyway, I've seen good pictures made by people using dive-lights or even aiming lights (rather than strobes).. and that made me think about headlamps!

I use those regulary in any topside activity (climbing, mountaineering, kayak, camping etc)

I'm now looking at The Pelican 2680 (waterproof to 500', 33lumens, 5000lux) 60$
http://www.pelican.com/lights_detail_specs.php?recordID=2680

This headlamp is tiltable so I can point it down so NOT blind my buddy while looking at her. We wont be diving at night, the light would be basically only used for macro-photography, and since it would always be lighting what I'm looking at, it seems to me to be a nice no-hassle setup

BUT.. Since I never used a light underwater, I'm not sure if that little lamp will provide enough light to actually help at all!

I don't intend to dive on wrecks, at night or in cavern in the near future..

Would that light be a waste of money?! (I looked for others like it but only found nightrider's @ 200$+)

If you don't recommend that light, what kind of result I should expect while using 2x stacked Inon 165 macro lenses with only ambiant-light ?

I read that the DOF and focus distance is real-tricky with 2x stacked macro, is it also true if using only one macro lens!?

on another mather, if you were to stack a wide-angle or fisheye lens on top of the macro, what result would that give?! (I'm curious)

one last thing, concerning ISO.. I saw that a number of people here are shooting at very very small iso (like iso80 / iso100 etc). Since every time the iso is doubled, you double the "light-sensivity", why is nobody (without strobe) using higher iso in these low-light situations? (I know all about "noise" at higher iso, but between a "noisy" shot and no-shot at all, seems to me to be a no-brainer..) What am I missing?

Any help, recommandation or insight will be greatly appreciated!

thanks!

dominic

 

[dbh]

A dive light will help your auto-focus lock in....but will do nothing for your pictures. The camera's internal flah will do you the most good...up to 12" - 15" away. The problem with the cameras internal flash is usually backscatter. However, the water in Coz is usually crystal clear so you have a good chance.

If you are that new to diving, forget the add-on lenses; they will just be task overload. I would even suggest to leave the camera topside until the end of the week and concentrate on your buoyancy....the reef will appreciate it .

Dave

 

[lukeROB]

Don't try and stack macro lenses without a strobe. In an ike housing I think the internal flash will blocked by the port/AD mount + attachment lens. You can get very good macro without an attachment and I would learn to do this before trying these lenses.

DOF is tiny and you really need to push the aperture - hence requiring more light. The power in the attachment is allowing closer focus - ie get closer when zoomed all the way in. Less light with a P&S plus obstruction of internal flash.

To get a light that will make a difference your in for a bit of cash - wait get a strobe. The internal strobe is excellent to learn with and teaches you to get close to avoid backscatter. Check my gallery there are a few shots in there only using internal flash with an A70 and you would be hard pressed to tell the difference to the strobe shots.

As for low ISO - you are right. Noise. Underwater you lose detail and contrast much quicker than on land - high ISO pictures are often a bit ugly especially if you are post processing. I didn't bother trying to take shots that I knew the camera couldn't handle (except shark pics just to prove I was there).

Learn what your camera is capable of and you can make some great images. Once you master those aspects look at adding components to the system that will allow you to take different kinds of shots.

 

[Mo2vation]

You need to bust into the SoCal room here on SB and look at Max Bottomtime's photos from last year and a few years before. Or, you can do a search on his posts.

Dude is hands-down the best flashlight photographer ever. He created some great images with a P&S, his light and some artistic composition.

---
Ken

 

[lukeROB]

also note that 2 x macros is about half way to a Inon D2000S. Wait and you will be happy you did.

I'd get a strobe before attachment lenses.

 

[Blox]

My advice would be: drop the headlamp idea, and either work with the internal flash, as others suggested, or - IMHO even better - learn to shoot with manually adjusted white balance.

 

[Mystic]

thanks everybody for the replies..

Seems resonable that I get used to the camera before slapping additionnal lens on there, and lukeROB - you are right, the ADmount + 2 macro lens is nearing the price of a descent strobe.. I didn't even consider that, I was so minded on getting those lens that I didn't do the math..

.. so.. I guess I'm even 60$ richer for not purchasing that headlamp.. ah well, seemed like a good option

 

[Mystic]

Blox - for sure, I'll be using manual white balance..

my topside camera is a Nikon D80, and if the Ikelite housing and port were not in the 2000$ range, that would be the camera I'd be bringing UW..

I'm no stranger to any aspect to "normal" photography.. It's only the new UW stuff, and particullary the light-transmission which puzzles me

 

[Larry C]

Most Coz diving is drift diving, in current. As an inexperienced diver, you'll be hard pressed to stop and shoot anything so small that you'll need the macro lenses anyway. Practice shooting stuff that's 12-24" away and having your settings and white balance right for that great shot of a Ray, Turtle, Nurse Shark etc. Save for the strobe to get good lighting and color on your reef shots and the portrait of that 900lb Goliath Grouper that's filling an entire swim through.

 

[EvaL]

I agree with Larry C, drift diving in Cozumel means you'd hardly have a chance to stop & make adjustments, unless you're in the swim thrus (too dark anyway) or behind a coral ledge shlelded from the current. But on a sunny day, with sunlight at proper angle and if you're shallow (30ft or less), you should still be able to capture pretty good images in the 2-4ft range.
Aside from using your camera's own built-in flash, another alternative is to see if your dive op on Cozumel rents out strobes (slave?) compatible with your camera.
Enjoy your trip.