Loved the diving (November 2004). Current was moderate on most ocassions and only occasionaly what I defined as strong (I am guessing between 1 and 3 knots but really I do not have much to base that on - there were time when it was difficult to even hold onto a rock and stay stationery against the current).
At Darwin and Woolf which are in far North we would backward roll of the inflatable and descend immediately (no return to the surface because that could lead to you drifitng off the spot). Once we were at about 17m we would cling to the reef with one hand (no coral so no real problem apart from barnacles - take gloves) and wait to see what came past. With one hand on the reef and one on the camera not much extra capability to move a srobe around. Also what we were photographing was oftern between 10 -15m away. Hammerheads, silky sharks, sometime turtles and heaps and heaps of jacks, reef fish etc - veritable fish soup - lots of free swimming moray eels occasional marlin, yellow trumpet fish etc. In other places lots of rays, and sealions and dolphins and pilot whales on the surface.
After 5- 15m of reef hugging (at Darwin's Arch where we spent 3.5 days) we would either strike out into the blue or drift down with the current - depth between 18 -30m. I spotted three whalesharks amazing.
The current was most problematic if you didn't descend on the right spot and needed to work back into it or if you caught a down current - these were not viciously down ward but when you are working hard to ascend and not getting anywhere you need to have the light go on in the head that says swim sideways out ot it.. At other sites it was always drift diving - occassional colourful wall but most often big stuff, rays, sealions etc.
Don't go on a standard Galapagos trip if macro is your only interest, while there is undoubtedly great macro stuff there that is not what the itinerarys are built around. I was happy spending 10 dives (3.5 days at Darwin) doing virtually the same dive looking for the same stuff - if is phenomenal.
We were on Lammerlaw, an excellent boat and crew, more luxurious than I needed but why complain. If I went again I might use Mistral which is run by same company but a bit less expensive.
Things to think about:
Woolf and Darwin - where the whalesharks are - but I suspect not in May, do some research to find out where what you want to see is likely to be - not all itinerarys include Wollf and Darwin.
For my money I would not do a trip that did not have some land visits -the wildlife on land is pretty amazing.
Cheers
Alison
