canon G11 WP-DC34 and fish eye dome?

[marmagi]

Hello,

I have a canon G11 with its canon case WP-DC34

I got a Big Eye dome Fantasea Lens to be attached to the front port of the DC34

the dome is same under other brand names:

Epoque Wide Lens for Canon WP-DC34

and

FIX x0.7 Wide conversion air dome lens


Now the problem is that I cant use the internal G11 flash with its DC34 strobe diffuser, bacause they cant be attached bith at same time

any of you have used it? how?

the diffuser locks the use of the fantasea big eye dome, how can I attach both?

Thanks

Mario

 

[ozziworld]

If you don't already have one, it looks like it is time to buy a new strobe !

 

[marmagi]

even if I buy new strobe which costs a lot how will I attach the external strobe fiber optic cable to the Dc34? How will I prevet the internal G11 flash to scatter?

 

[Gilligan]

You can't use the dome with the camera's internal strobe. The dome blocks the internal strobe whether or not you use the diffuser. You have to get an external strobe.

Once you get an external strobe you will have to use a fiber optic cable to fire it. You DON'T need the Canon flash diffuser with an external strobe. You have to totally block the camera's strobe so as not to have any "hot spots" from it in your photos.

It is very easy and inexpensive to make a device that both blocks the camera's strobe and at the same time attaches the fiber optic cable.

You can see the instructions for the one I made for my G10 Canon housing HERE to give you an idea.

 

[marmagi]

exactly, thnaks that is exactly what I mean

what is this device I need to trigger and external strobe avoiding hot spots?

who makes it? please let me know how to home make it? is it possible?

any photos of how ot make it?

thanks

Mario

 

[Gilligan]

exactly, thnaks that is exactly what I mean

what is this device I need to trigger and external strobe avoiding hot spots?

who makes it? please let me know how to home make it? is it possible?

any photos of how ot make it?

thanks

Mario

No one makes it. I made my own. Go to my website to see how I made it. This is the LINK

 

[mitsuguy]

exactly, thnaks that is exactly what I mean

what is this device I need to trigger and external strobe avoiding hot spots?

who makes it? please let me know how to home make it? is it possible?

any photos of how ot make it?

thanks

Mario

Depending on which strobe you get, something like this 10Bar Sea & Sea F/O Sync Cord - Sync Cords - Strobes & Lighting - Optical Ocean Sales Underwater Photo - 800-359-1295! will work for you - it (and others like it) come with a piece of translucent attachment - sticky on one side, 3M dual lock on the other side... the 3M side is where that fiber optic cord attaches to, and can be detached as well...

I used electrical tape on my housing to cover the rest of the area around it to prevent any of the internal strobe from reaching outside of the housing...

as others have noted, even if you were to be able to use a diffuser, a large lens blocks the internal strobe anyways and you would basically get darkness right in front of the lens and bright light the top left corner of the photo...

 

[Nemrod]

Now the problem is that I cant use the internal G11 flash with its DC34 strobe diffuser, bacause they cant be attached bith at same time



Mario

I think this falls under certain physical laws of the universe, two objects cannot occupy the same place at the same time. You have to remove the diffuser, you will need to purchase an external strobe which I thought you had some Inon strobes but in any case it should be apparent the diffuser must be removed and that an external flash must be used or no flash and just shoot ambient. Good luck.

N

 

[HerraduraDivers]

1. Use non transparent tape to tape the inside of your housing, but it will not trigger a external strobe
2. Get a piece of fully exposed 35mm film (usualls the beginning of a exposed film roll) and cover the G11 strobe. The dark part of the film will block visible light but let pass infrared light to trigger the strobe.
Inon has the same, but expensive system: http://wetpixel.com/i.php/full/inon-clear-photo-system-receives-us-patent/

Chris

 

[Gilligan]

marmagi,

The strobe I use is a Sea & Sea and one end of the cable has a specific type plug for the Sea & Sea strobes. It doesn't matter what brand strobe you get because you can always cut the end of the cable that attaches to the camera housing to fit your homemade adapter.

You have spent a good amount of money on your setup and settling for only non-strobe shots seems to defeat that. An external strobe is a must for you at this point. I hope you are shooting in RAW, at least for your non-strobe shots? You can't match the White Balance results compared to a JPEG using the Canon DPP software that came with the camera for processing RAW.

The fiber optic attachment device I made allows me to easily detach it should I want to use the camera's internal strobe for a topside shot while still in the housing.

You can do what HerraduraDivers said by using a piece of exposed film (inside the housing) to block the camera's strobe but still allow for it to fire the slave strobe via a fiber optic cable (outside the housing). Like he said that is what Inon does but their film patches are more expensive.

Olympus makes a less expensive strobe that does not require a fiber optic cable. They claim it fires from the camera's strobe without a cable. Problem is:
1. Some articles on the web claim it does not fire every time depending on it's position in relation to the camera's strobe.
2. The camera's strobe will also be in the photo. IMO it's better it's not.

I use a Sea & Sea YS-27DX strobe. It is a discontinued model but you may still be able to locate one. It was much less expensive than their current models. It is a manual strobe with 10 power settings, about 5 of which I use. It has no F stop settings on it just power level settings. I just found the "sweet spots" on it. IMO it's all you need.