Canon G10 condensation in WP-DC28

[gummybun]

From reading other threads it appears that condensation is not much of a problem for most users, but I had a problem on a recent trip where I had this problem for the first time. I was on a Belize Caye and the morning weather was very humid (when I usually pack in the camera to its' case) and my silica packs were probably a bit exhausted. I had no freezer or microwave to re-fresh the silica.

My problem with condensation manifested during the assent of the first dives of the day. And the moisture was entirely in the forward section of the housing, around the lens and front optic (resulting in soft focus) of the housing, in the area that is sealed by the housings internal black rubber 'boot' around the camera lens. As the silica was not 'inside' that sealed area there was nothing to absorb that moisture, and as there was no moisture in the remainder of the housing I can only assume the silica was pulling in condensation from that area. I am not sure why this rubber boot seals right up to the camera body but there you are...

On another thread I mused about 'modding' the black rubber lens boot by punching a hole on the side using a hole punch - to allow some air movement but as I was looking at the case/camera combination today I thought that if one were to simply remove the Bayonet Lens Adapter ring - then the surface that the boot 'seals' to is now set further back and irregular and does not appear to contact. This would achieve the same end.

If any members know if and why the rubber boot needs to seal tight against the camera body I would be grateful for your thoughts.

 

[Nemrod]

The rubber boot is there to prevent reflections, light leakage and strobe light leakage from behind the port which could reflect on the port and reduce contrast and introduce possible reflections or ghosting. N

 

[gummybun]

Ah, yes, so then a mil or 3 separation at the base of the camera body end will have little or no negative effect - I would presume.

 

[ScubaMarc]

as for removing the rubber boot, not sure good or not, but if you do remove it, to stop the strobe flares, tape up the entire outside snout and over the internal strobe with electrical tape.

condensation; did u try any thing to stop it.

 

[gummybun]

as for removing the rubber boot, not sure good or not, but if you do remove it, to stop the strobe flares, tape up the entire outside snout and over the internal strobe with electrical tape.

condensation; did u try any thing to stop it.

No, No... I was not suggesting to remove the Rubber Boot, just the removable Adapter Ring - the ring is removed by holding down the ring 'lock' button and rotating and removing the Adapter Ring, usually only done if you are using one of the accessory lens adapters. If you do this the Rubber Boot now does not quite touch the main camera housing, allowing some air movement around the lens INSIDE the boot.

As the rubber boot is tight to the lens, you can not fit any silica packs inside the boot area and because the boot (normally) seals against the Ring/Camera body, any condensation that occurs INSIDE the boot area can not be absorbed by the silica positioned elsewhere in the underwater housing.

 

[coralcruiser]

I have never had condensation in that part of the housing, even when setting up in humid conditions. However I always let my camera and housing sit outside with a towel over them before putting the camera and silica pack into the housing and closing it for the day's dives.

BTW... no matter how I try to recharge the silica packs, they always fry on me!! I have been told to put them in the oven set at 250 degrees for several hours... but after 10 minutes, they're burned.

Would love to hear how you are able to reuse them instead of tossing them when they turn pink (or whatever colors your turn to indicate they need to be replaced).

 

[CheeseAndJamSandwich]

Perhaps it might be better to reduce the moisture in the setup rather than trying to deal with the resulting condensation.
More than likely, your G10 contains some moisture... From being in your sweaty hands on hot days, etc. Then when you work it hard, using the internal strobe lots, that moisture evaporates, condensing on the cold parts of the housing. Like the port glass...
So a good thing to do every now and again is to 'bake-out' the camera. Not in the oven! But simply by putting it in or on something nice n warm. Airing cupboards are the best... Or sat on top of the boiler...
Always take out the battery! They hate getting hot.
One method i use is by sitting it on top of my laptop's power brick with a towel around some of it to keep some heat in.
Leave this baking for a few hours or over night and you won't get condensation problems... Even in humid environments.

 

[skynscuba]

Would love to hear how you are able to reuse them instead of tossing them when they turn pink (or whatever colors your turn to indicate they need to be replaced).

Do the bake at 150F to 175F. Takes maybe 20-35 mins. I had the same experience at 250F, with them bursting. I think that if you go over the boiling point of water, the steam pressure cannot escape fast enough.