Canon 40D Housing Suggestions?

[bversteegh]

I haven't heard this for a while, but it used to be the case that perspex housings like Ikelite's developed fatigue cracks after a while. Can anyone positively confirm that they solved that problem?

That said, I'd look at the various cast metal housings around. I'd also go for one with electronic controls as they can control the whole camera, not just the basics. It is ESSENTIAL though that these housings don't leak.

You need to find what lenses you can use inside any housing you're tempted by, both for physical constraints as well as optical. I'd always be inclined towards a prime rather than a zoom. And whether things like IS and autofocus can be controlled from the housing, or whether you have to turn them off.

I've had multiple Ikelite housings - no issues with fatigue cracks. My backup housing (a Fuji F810) is almost 4 years old, good as the day I bought it (maybe a few user induced scratches, but nothing impacting performance).

My only issue with Ikelite is the port lock on their DSLR housings - works great at depth, but can be dislodged in the rinse tank. If you get an Ike (especially with the big dome) you need to be careful in the rinse tank - otherwise a great housing.

 

[vkalia]

Mike Luzansky has given a spot-on summation of your options.

One thing that I dont see mentioned when discussing housings is ergonomics. Ike housings have a lot going for them pricewise, but have the worst ergonomics I have ever encountered in a housing. They are boxy and clunky, and hard to use. That alone puts me off them (and I am not going to get into their port design here.. that itself arouses some pretty heated discussions). Trust me, when you are shooting a lot, what was initially a minor ergonomic foible soon becomes an annoyance that you cannot live with. I have learned this lesson the hard way - from tripods to spotting scopes to cameras.

Sea&Sea and Aquatica are the best bang for the buck, IMO.

I use an Aquatica rig and what I like the most about it is the fact that I only need 2 ports - an 8" dome port and a flat port, and I can fit pretty much any and every focal length I will ever use into these 2 ports, using spacers. No collecting specific ports for specific lenses and all that jazz. I can also (unfortunately) vouch for the robustness of Aquatica housings - a 3 foot drop onto concrete, landing on the dome port shade hard enough to shear the lens inside into two, but the housing was undamaged.

S&S also seems pretty good. What swung the deal for me in favor of Aquatica was that I can call or email them directly and get a personal response. Sea&Sea is a little harder to contact and deal with, I gather.

However, both are good housings and you cannot go wrong with either.

And while you are at it, dont bother buying TLC or ULCS arms. Go to 4th Generation Designs and get the Stix Buoyancy arms. They will make your photography a lot easier.

Given the amount of money you'll be spending on the housing, arms, strobes, cables and then travel/diving, think carefully about the pros/cons of adding another $700-800 to your budget. In the grand scheme of things, it really isnt that much.

Vandit

 

[alcina]

Excellent advice here!

Frankly, I don't think you can go wrong with any of the housings mentioned, so the best thing to do is to check your budget, lay hands on them if you can and then take a deep breath and take the leap!!

I love my 10-22 on land. I have a love/hate relationship with WA underwater so don't use it as much...I generally use the 17-70 Sigma instead I did get to use the 10-17 while in Florida for Invade the Keys and it is a very nice lens. Prefer the 10-22 on land though so I haven't bothered to add the 10-17 (yet).

If you haven't already, check out the Sticky at the top of the UW Photo area (follow the Pink Link in my signature) for more info on housings, lenses and tid bits to make your shopping easier!

 

[Rusty Tank]

I am upgrading from a point and shoot (specifically: Canon A95, Inon D-2000, Inon Z-240, UFL-165AD Fisheye, Dual UCL-165AD macro lenses).

So far, I have already purchased the Canon 40D with the EF-S 17-85mm and EF 100mm macro lenses. I am looking to buy a wide angle lens to compliment the lenses I already have. Based on the fact that I will want to use the lens on land too, I am considering buying the Canon EFS 10-22mm lens. I am open to suggestions on this.

The difficult part I am really struggling with now is what housing to buy. I really like the Aquatica housing but to purchase everything I need (housing, dome port, macro port, zoom gears, and all the minor accessories) it is going to cost a small fortune. I am willing to part with the money if I know that it will enable me to step up to the next level in UW photography but I think it is best to ask people with far more experience as to their opinion. So, based on the lenses I am looking to use and the Canon 40D, what suggestions do you have for housings?

I struggled witht the same and must agree with the above mentioned statements to look further than the Ikelite. I had an ikelite for my previous cam (Canon S3IS) and have a Seatool housing for the Canon 40D now which is significantly smaller than the Ikelite. I use this in combination with the optically fired Inon strobes and the tokina 10-17 and the Sigma 17-70macro.

I've done quite some research on all available housings, if you drop me a PM I'll send a pack with all documents. (can't post them here I think because this is copied and combined from various websites)

 

[KLETCO]

Well, after much consideration, I finally opted on the Aquatica. I have heard a lot of good things about both Aquatica and Sea&Sea but I opted for the Aquatica because it was a little bit cheaper overall for what I want to do. I don't think it was a bad choice either way, kind of like making the choice between a sirloin and a ny strip. LOL!

I ordered the Tokina 10-17mm fisheye after I have heard so many good things about it and I already have the Canon EF 100mm macro lens. I have a Canon EF-S 17-85mm lens but I am not certain if it is good for UW use. Any other suggestions on lenses is appreciated...

Strobes are going to be dual Inon Z-240s (I am selling my D-2000 to upgrade) and I am going to use them manually for now. Yes, I know it is going to be somewhat painful but I know I will get proper exposures this way and I was receiving mixed reviews about the various TTL converters on the market when used with the Z-240s. Besides, I can pick up a TTL converter at a later time.

I am considering the Fisheye Focus Light. One of the difficulties I always had with my current P&S setup was the lack of a focus light. I tried to use the aiming lights on the Z-240 but it was very difficult at times to setup properly. Suggestions?

I feel like there are just TOO many things to think about....... ugh.

 

[bversteegh]

I own the fisheye Fix Light (the Halogen version) - and it is an awesome light (costs way too much, but what doesn't in this hobby?). The variable intensity feature is also great - I use it as my primary light on night dives as well as a focus light. Drawbacks - you have to use the variable intensity feature to have it last an entire dive - half power may last a 60 minute dive. Full power is good for about 35 minutes (at least on mine). And the batteries can be kind of quirky to charge - especially overseas with poor quality power.

I haven't used the LED version (wasn't out yet when I bought mine), but certainly worth serious consideration. Much better battery life, half the cost. But a good focus light is invaluable (especially with the Canon 100 mm lens, which can be a bit picky to achieve autofocus).

 

[vkalia]

Good setup (and I am not just saying that cos I have the same )

Get a 50mm macro - I use the Sigma but the Canon 60mm works quite well (probably a little better, as it has USM). Most versatile lens you'll use. IMO, the general walkabout lenses that you may use on land are not that useful underwater, although others people disagree with me on this as well.

I have the Fisheye LED light - use it off and on (I use it mostly on night dives, as a focus light and as my dive light). , but generally, you will not need it with the UWA. Use hyperfocal focusing and stop it down to f11 and you'll likely never need to AF anyway. It is nice, but there are also cheaper solutions out there (and the switch on my light started malfunctioning after perhaps 7-8 dives).

At some point, consider an external viewfinder. You can get Aqua View, which is really nice but is a straight finder - or the Inon Angled Finder, which is a third-party installation and to me, a lot more comfortable to use when shooting. This has been the single best investment I have made on my housing (Scubacam in Singapore installs them on all housings - perhaps Backscatter in CA can also do a mod on yours).

Vandit