Cannister Light

[wolves64t]

Does anyone have experience working with pvc round stock? I want to use my router to create end caps that will slide inside of 3" pvc this way the can has smooth sides when I am finished. I am wondering if my router will be the right tool or if it will just burn/melt the pvc. Also I am looking for the right type of latch something stainless and locking. Any feedback would be a great help.

E.B.

 

[wolves64t]

Here is a link to the material I am considering.

http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/pr...ry_name=115&product_id=11044&variant_id=45178

I want to cut disks out of the stock then use my router to create a lip. I will use 3.5" round stock as this will match up with either schedule 40 or 80 on the OD. I think that this process will give me better/more profesional results when compared to using flattened pvc (oven technique) and cutting disks out of this material. Let me know what you think.

E.B.

 

[cool_hardware52]

Here is a link to the material I am considering.

http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/pr...ry_name=115&product_id=11044&variant_id=45178

I want to cut disks out of the stock then use my router to create a lip. I will use 3.5" round stock as this will match up with either schedule 40 or 80 on the OD. I think that this process will give me better/more profesional results when compared to using flattened pvc (oven technique) and cutting disks out of this material. Let me know what you think.

E.B.

PVC is no fun to machine. It will burn, melt etc. Almost all thermoplastics are good insulators, consequently the heat of machining is not dissipated through the rest of the blank.

Slow is often better, but slow is hard to achieve with a router.

I'd be looking for somebody with a lathe, and very sharp tools.


Good luck,


Tobin

 

[willydiver]

wolves64t,
I was concerned about the effects of a router on PVC plastic during my DPV project. I was PLEASANTLY suprised to find that the 1" thick PVC sheet I used on the project machined very nicely on my router table. I didn't experience any melting of the PVC while cutting a radius on the PVC and the shavings peeled off like silk. My advice is to use SHARP carbide router bits and take small bites at a time. I had great success using a drill press and circle cutter to start a disk, rough it out with a jigsaw, then finish the smooth cut using a flush cut laminate trimming router bit following the initial circular cut made by the circle cutter.

Bottom line, IF YOU TAKE THE TIME to set up your machine/jig properly and take it slow, it will work.

WD

 

[cool_hardware52]

wolves64t,
I was concerned about the effects of a router on PVC plastic during my DPV project. I was PLEASANTLY suprised to find that the 1" thick PVC sheet I used on the project machined very nicely on my router table. I didn't experience any melting of the PVC while cutting a radius on the PVC and the shavings peeled off like silk. My advice is to use SHARP carbide router bits and take small bites at a time. I had great success using a drill press and circle cutter to start a disk, rough it out with a jigsaw, then finish the smooth cut using a flush cut laminate trimming router bit following the initial circular cut made by the circle cutter.

Bottom line, IF YOU TAKE THE TIME to set up your machine/jig properly and take it slow, it will work.

WD

Good Advise, sharp High rake tools and light cuts. Keep the tool moving along the path, don't dwell.


Tobin

 

[willydiver]

I'd also advise using a router table with your router. It will be easier to "fix" the tool and rotate the PVC, in this case. Use a carbide straight bit and adjust its height above the table to the length of the smaller diameter section of the PVC plug. Use the table fence to control the depth of cut.

Like Tobin said, keep the PVC moving against the rotating bit and take SMAll bites at a time. I used Scd.80 PVC for the DPV and it worked nicely.

WD

 

[wolves64t]

Thats exactly what I was thinking. How about latches? I saw some on salvodiving.com but it would be $22 plus shipping for a set of two latches w/catches. Anybody ahve a good source for stainless preferably lockable latches? Thanks for the help.

E.B.

 

[willydiver]

Thats exactly what I was thinking. How about latches? I saw some on salvodiving.com but it would be $22 plus shipping for a set of two latches w/catches. Anybody ahve a good source for stainless preferably lockable latches? Thanks for the help.

E.B.

$22 is the cheapest I've seen for a pair of the locking ones. Ikelite sells them for $15/each without the catch. McMaster sells them for $12/each. They sell the non-locking ones for $6/each. I'm using 8 of the non-locking ones on the housing for my Hi-8 video camera. Would have liked to use the locking ones on it, but that would have been $100 in latches!!

Good luck with the cannister. Post some "in-progress" pictures as you go along.

WD

 

[wolves64t]

I'm in DIY heaven, I found out Mcmasters has a wearhouse 10 miles from my girlfriends apartment. I ordered some sched 80 pvc, pvc rod, ss hinges, orings, strain relief fittings etc. etc. Then picked it up at their will call. Just had to pay sales tax instead of paying the shipping. Now I need a bit of free time to start working on this project. I am also looking at their magnetic switches. I think the cylindrical type would work. what kind of switches have you guys used?

Here is the link to the switch I am thinking of. http://www.mcmaster.com/ctlg/DisplC...th=588&ToolsetID=ToolMultiPageNav&ToolsetAct=

Look forward to hearing from you guys and I should pictures up sometime soon.

Thanks, E.B.

 

[Bnscherm]

Those switches won't work unless you plan on using a very low wattage bulb. The current rating is not high enough and you will fuse the contacts making it always stay on, unless you add a relay or a high power mosfet. I'd recommend looking for some other switches or something with an integrated relay. Magnetic switches (reed switches) are very rarely found over 1 or 2 amps and would be expensve and bulky. These switches might work for a 10W HID bulb, but the initial surge current could destroy the fragile reed contacts.