Canister light cord idea

[SparkySFD]

As new canister lights are wicked expensive the thought of making my own appeals to me. I know there are many threads on this topic. In thinking about this I have just about made up my mind I can do it. The one thing that I was unsure about is the light cord penetration of the lid.

DOES THE CORD PENETRATE THE LID OF A HALCYON LIGHT?

I love Halcyon products. I use it as an example because it is what I want to copy. I would love a new Helios light. Just dont want to spend that much money on a light. I have read about magnetic switches and had an idea for a light cord that didnt penetrate the lid. That way the only way it could leak is from the o-ring seal.

Heres my idea, if its not already done. Machine a lid. Lid will have a threaded contact. The light cord is attached to a threaded end with a contact at the end. This is sealed by a double o-ring. This serves two purposes.

1. Seals out water.
2. Keeps it tight.

What do you think about my idea?

 

[detroit diver]

As new canister lights are wicked expensive the thought of making my own appeals to me. I know there are many threads on this topic. In thinking about this I have just about made up my mind I can do it. The one thing that I was unsure about is the light cord penetration of the lid.

DOES THE CORD PENETRATE THE LID OF A HALCYON LIGHT?

I love Halcyon products. I use it as an example because it is what I want to copy. I would love a new Helios light. Just dont want to spend that much money on a light. I have read about magnetic switches and had an idea for a light cord that didnt penetrate the lid. That way the only way it could leak is from the o-ring seal.

Heres my idea, if its not already done. Machine a lid. Lid will have a threaded contact. The light cord is attached to a threaded end with a contact at the end. This is sealed by a double o-ring. This serves two purposes.

1. Seals out water.
2. Keeps it tight.

What do you think about my idea?

The cord on the Halcyon lights do penetrate the lid thru a compression fitting. If fitted with the correct size cord, it works very well.

I'm trying to picture what you are suggesting. I'm not sure why it would be a better method, though. In both cases, you need to penetrate the lid (id Halcyon's cord, or your contact). On the Halcyon type, there is a compression fitting. On yours, you would need a compression fitting (or similar waterproof enclosure), AND a way to seal out the contact. Or am I missing something?

 

[Cave Diver]

I have read about magnetic switches and had an idea for a light cord that didnt penetrate the lid. That way the only way it could leak is from the o-ring seal.

A magnetic switch works find to activate something when the power source and the load are sealed in the same unit (i.e. a scooter)

However, with a canister light, the powersource is in the can, the load is attached to the end of the cord. You still need to connect the two, which is going to require a hole of some sort in the lid for the cord to go to the battery.

Either way, you will need to put a hole in the lid, and the existing method seems to work quite well. You could possibly use a magnetic switch to replace the current toggle style switch and eliminate one potential leak point that way, but I'm not sure it's worth the effort.

 

[grf88]

On my homemade cannister lights and on my video lights I run the wires through a rubber tube and then use brass plumbing bayonet connectors which have a threaded portion on the other end. I just drill and tap the cannister lid and screw in the connector with a bit of silicone sealant on the threads. To me this is much easier than trying to find waterproof electrical connectors. On my video light I added a second layer of ABS to provide a deeper hole and greater thread area.

 

[Genesis]

A potential solution to this is to use E/O connectors (which are waterproof bulkheads) and then a magnetic switch for the power. However, this will require a relay, as a reed switch will not sink the current required for the light.

You've now added quite a bit of complexity to the cannister. Whether it measurably decreases the risk of floods is the question,and I don't have an answer for you on that.

 

[SparkySFD]

I didnt explain my idea very well.

Yes at first there would be a hole in the lid. I would machine a threaded hole and then seal in a plug (contact). The cord would actually thread onto the lid.

 

[unfix8r]

There is some really great info from Padipro's MSN divelight groups... I am building the same light with modifications...

1. No cicuit breaker... why?
2. Only one battery...
3. I am using a computer UPS unit to charge and keep charged the battery.
4. The reed switch was just too much trrouble, while it would eliminate a source of leakage.
5. I am going to fill the lighthead with mineral oil for heat dispersion and equalize pressure.
6. I got the incorrect strain relief fittings, and will have toglob in some silicone adhsive sealant instead of having the fitting do the work.
7. As a sailor first, I'm covering muy light with West Marine stickers instead of Nitrox diver stickers.