Canister for heat

[in too deep]

Thoughts of the Nanight canisters for heat. I like the profile.

Nanight Power Canister

This single output canister from Nanight will power your heated suit or lights when you need it most. The canisters have 4 power settings so you can adjust the output to what you need, when you need it!The G2 192 Wh canister has a 30" cable. The 96 Wh has a 12" cable. Custom cable lengths are...

saltblue.com

 

[Chris H]

I’ve seen a Nanlight can, but I’m not super familiar with them. What I do know, is that after diving for many years with a single output can on my heated vest, that adding a variable output controller is the best thing I’ve done in a long time. I’m using a Light Monkey canister with a Pitkin Controller built into the lid. A controller will allow you to start at a lower temp, and get more heat if you need it. It will also conserve the battery. There isn’t much worse than being on deco and having a vest go from all to nothing. Since I picked up the Pitkin controller, I find I rarely need all the heat.

 

[in too deep]

I’ve seen a Nanlight can, but I’m not super familiar with them. What I do know, is that after diving for many years with a single output can on my heated vest, that adding a variable output controller is the best thing I’ve done in a long time. I’m using a Light Monkey canister with a Pitkin Controller built into the lid. A controller will allow you to start at a lower temp, and get more heat if you need it. It will also conserve the battery. There isn’t much worse than being on deco and having a vest go from all to nothing. Since I picked up the Pitkin controller, I find I rarely need all the heat.

I've been using a Yellow Diving canister and their shirt which has a built in "Pitkin", simply toggling the power it switches between 100%, 50% and off, works well for me.
I want to mount the can to the back weight pocket/harness of a Hollis K2. I've got a LM 2" light can and it fits nicely. The 3" can on the other side is a little uncomfortable, plus it has a backmount cap and the e/o cord is a little short. A new side mount cap is almost as much as the Nanaight battery.

 

[tbone1004]

also of note that the canisters with 11.1v ish lithium packs are only capable of putting out about 80% of the heat that the vests are originally designed for which is ~13.6v alternator output. UWLD is the only controller I'm aware of with 13.6v as the "high" output.
The Pitkin controller is also not a constant output controller so the output wanes over the burn on each setting.

 

[in too deep]

also of note that the canisters with 11.1v ish lithium packs are only capable of putting out about 80% of the heat that the vests are originally designed for which is ~13.6v alternator output. UWLD is the only controller I'm aware of with 13.6v as the "high" output.
The Pitkin controller is also not a constant output controller so the output wanes over the burn on each setting.

Taken from the Nanight website. How does this compare to UWLD:

The Power Canister G2 192-S is the next generation of Power canisters from Nanight. The Power Canister offers a regulated output power of 5-20 with 4 available power settings for heat control.

Output voltage: 5-20V

External connector: E/O

Capacity:

192 Wh (2x 96Wh batteries inside, which are allowed for flying) ->

- 17400 mAh at 11V

- 13400 mAh at 14.4V

Max output power: 110W

 

[tbone1004]

@in too deep that's a high voltage output so you're ok there as long as you select a 13-14v output for the max output setting.

 

[in too deep]

@in too deep that's a high voltage output so you're ok there as long as you select a 13-14v output for the max output setting.

This obviously would provide more heat compared to the 11.1v can I’m using now.
Probably could start with 50% to the shirt and step up to 100% once voltage drops or at the end of the dive for more warmth. Taking on/off gassing into consideration.

 

[tbone1004]

This obviously would provide more heat compared to the 11.1v can I’m using now.
Probably could start with 50% to the shirt and step up to 100% once voltage drops or at the end of the dive for more warmth. Taking on/off gassing into consideration.

What I do not know is whether or not that is a constant output driver. I can tell you that the UWLD is constant output so 100% is ~13.6V from start to end.

 

[in too deep]

What I do not know is whether or not that is a constant output driver. I can tell you that the UWLD is constant output so 100% is ~13.6V from start to end.

Thanks for the point - I’ll confirm with manufacturer
I’ll take a look at UWLD, I know you swear by them based on their quality, performance and reputation

 

[broncobowsher]

I have seeing stuff rated in Ah or mAh as you really don't know the energy being stored. Have to find the voltage so you can figure the wattage. Watts=heat. Simply rearrange the cells and you can get a high mAh rating at a very low voltage, but the watt-hour will still be the same. The airlines know what energy is and that is why they list limits based on watt-hours and not mAh.