Cancun-Cozumel-Cenotes Trip Report

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bclem

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I went to Cancun in late February 2002 to go scuba diving. Being single at the moment, that was the only reason I went(except for having use or lose vacation time I had to use up), and did it alone. Hopefully I'll have a scuba buddy next time.

I signed up for a Suntrips package, $1250 or so for a four star hotel (the Continental Plaza) with the all inclusive package (including plane fare, hotel for 7 days, and all I could eat and drink).

Cancun is a tourist town, depending on the tourist trade for it's existence. Everybody wanted a tip for everything (hey, what's a few peso's when you had already spent the big bucks to get down there). Every deal you make has a catch, and will cost you a few more bucks than you expect. It takes a while to lean the scams, but just do all your deals in Pesos and you will make out OK. There is a bus every 30 seconds which for 5 Pesos (50 cents) will take you as far a s you want to go along the Hotel zone or into the city of Cancun (I found a Walmart, McDonalds, and Office Depot). I love the way the Mexicans like to have a huge Mexican flag flying over town that you can see for miles. (Mexico City had one also in the main square).

It had been windy and off and on rainy for the previous week. I guess that is typical for February. It was generally sunny in the morning, and the clouds gathered about noon, then it rained. I dove in the mornings, and hoped to get some sun in the afternoon, but the only tan I got was on the last day when I didn't dive (flight home, you know).

Upon arriving I walked across the street and signed up for a two tank dive with Punta Este Divers.

The next day I showed up and was the only diver on the boat! It was a big boat (probably could have held 15 divers or so), and as we headed out of the harbor, the boat turned back, and Gabrielle (the dive master who was about 25 years old and very cute) told me the harbor was closed by the harbormaster, and that because of rain showers out by Isla Muheres the dive sites couldn't be identified by landmarks(GPS? Que GPS?). I noticed two smaller dive boats passing us on the way out. I asked the boat captain why we were going back, and the little boats were going out, and his macho took over. He turned the boat around and passed the smaller boats, and we were under water before the others got out there. The visibility was about 50 feet, but it was a good dive!

I got by quite nicely with just the farmer john top and booties, which is all I wore for all of my dives during the trip. The wind and waves were increasing. By the time we got up from the second dive, the other boats had headed back. The waves were about 8 to 10 feet, and the captain was trying to help me on board as I held onto the ladder when he let go. I thought he had fallen in, but he was throwing the life ring to Gaby, who had drifted about 30 feet away. I was worried I might have had to rescue them both!

I had in the meantime signed up with Dive Cancun, and the next day went out with them. The conditions were the same, but there were some other divers on their boat. The dive master was really a twit about keeping his "tourists" close to him, so I couldn't really explore. The dive masters down there must really be into risk management, or else they have a poor opinion of the capabilities of U.S. divers, because they all seemed to want to mother you. (Unlike one boat I have been on in Monterey where they said, "Hey, you are all certified, let us know if you feel uncomfortable and we'll stick with you.)" 35 minutes per dive? I never has less than 1000 lbs in my tanks after the dives. There is something really wrong with our certification programs if a person isn't really considered competent even with an advanced certificate.

The next day was Cozumel. The trip from Cancun was long (an hour on the road, and an hour on the ferry), but the diving was worth it. Dive Cancun had subcontracted the boat and dive guide out to another company who didn't treat you as much like a baby. Drift Diving is great! Santa Rosa Wall first, then another reef. The visibility was only 60 feet (not like the 100 feet I had heard about, but hey, it was February), but it was a really good experience.

The next day was diving in Los Osos cavern. The whole Yucatan peninsula seems to be limestone, and the caverns are submerged in fresh water with visibility about 250 feet, further than my flashlight would reach. Stalagmites sticking up, and stalactites hanging down. Just like in a limestone cave in the USA, but flying through the cave instead of walking. WOW!! Some of the best dives I've ever had! A dive guide with an extra tank and reg's, and four people max tagging along. Cavern Diving is different than cave diving, as you have to be with the Dive guide, and within about 175 feet of a hole up to fresh air at all times. Don't go there without trying this, it is really beautiful, the clear water with the sunshine rays streaming through the holes, the neat cavern formations etc.

Another day diving off of Cancun, and it was time to head home. Headwinds, and having to make an unplanned stop for fuel got me home very late (2am, 4am Cancun time), with military duty three hours later. Would I go back? Certainly, but maybe another time of year.

Bill
 
Thanks for the information, Bill. I am planning on making that trip this November. What is the disadvantage to staying in Cozumel the entire time. I am cave certified, so I want to dive the cenotes but would also like to do some ocean diving.
 
Hello Bradymsu,
In answer to your question about staying in Coz and diving the cenotes on the mainland. My wife and I go to Coz each May as our annual vacation. We stay at the Fiesta Americana and dive with Dive House(highly reccommend both). They are located on the south end of the island away from the cruise ship pier. We book them through Island Dreams www.islandream.com out of Houston. We usually take a day off during the week of diving and go to the mainland to tour or dive cenotes. The ferry ride from the downtown pier(across from the plaza) takes about 30 minutes and it docks at Playa Del Carmen. The ferry is very new and plush and costs about $8 US round trip. We dove the cenotes with Villas DeRosa Dive@Cenotes.com and really enjoyed them. As bclem stated, the water is crystal clear, a cool 72 degrees and the formations are awesome. Nancy DeRosa will handle your trip from Playa Del Carmen. We carried our own gear and they furnished tanks and weights. They meet you at the dock and take you to their Villas for the orientation, then to the cenotes for a wonderful day of two tank fresh water diving, back to the Villas for lunch and then back to the dock for your return to Coz. So, in saying all that, you can definitely enjoy a stay on Cozumel, Dive their beautiful ocean sites and also Dive the cenotes on the mainland. Sound like a wonderful time to me. Hope this helps. Also, just for information. I ordered a map of Cozumel last week and it came yesterday. It is the best tour map of the island that I have seen. Definitely worth the $6.95. If interested take a look at their web site. www.cancunmap.com
 
Bradymsu,
I am definately going to stay in Coz next time, dive there, and take the ferry to get to the cenotes.

Scubaburt, you have some great recommendations, and I am going to save them for my next trip.

Thanks, Bclem
 
Hi Bill,

I've dove the cenotes a bit over the years & never heard of "Los Osos" (The Bears). I have, however, dove "Dos Ojos" (Two Eyes). Could you please give me the location & a description of "Los Osos?"

Thanks,

DocVikingo
 
Hi bradymsu,

If you are cave certified, I can hook you up with someone who will take you caving on Coz proper. Not nearly as pretty as the Yucatan cenotes, but more challenging & a heck of a lot more convenient

Please contact me privately on this matter if you are interested.

Best regards.

DocVikingo
 
Docvikingo,
You are absolutely right, it was Dos Ojos. My Spanish is not that good (yet) and I misunderstood. They did tell me it was Two Eyes. My apologies.

I really like these caverns/caves. Do you have any tips on how to get cave certified down there? I don't think there are any places here in California, which has little limestone.

Thanks, Bclem
 
Hi Bclem,

You'll need to progress through cavern, intro to cave or apprectice cave, and then full cave. On the Yucatan, the entire cave certification can be completed in about a week, although this is a bit of a push. Beyond full cave are specialty courses like cave stage diving & cave DPV.

There are a number of good training ops on the Yucatan. Especially good is http://www.locogringo.com/cavediving/. Also good is http://www.mayatechdiving.com/coursesdesc.html.

Go for it.

DocVikingo
 
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