Camera Upgrade Questions: TG-6 to ?

[Guitarcrazy]

I have been getting more into photography the past few years and am looking to upgrade my camera. I currently have the TG-6 with two strobes, video light, Backscatter wide angle and air lens. I want to get something with greater dynamic range and more resolution. I like to print photos occasionally and the TG sensor seems to be lacking in that area. I have looked extensively at the E-PL10 and AOI Housing that Backscatter recommends, but I am not sure that going from a 12MP to the 16MP 4 thirds is enough of a step up. I have found some deals on the OM-D EM-5 Mark III and OM-D EM10 Mark IV. They are similar in performance and only $100 difference between the two.

Question 1: Will I be able to recognize the difference between the 16MP in the E-PL10 and the 20MP OM-D Em5 Mark III or EM10 MIV? I can get the camera and housing for the EM-5 or OM-10 for about $300 or $400 more than the E-PL10 combo from Backscatter.

Question 2: Would you use camera lenses and ports, or use accessory wet lenses? I am not sure I would get a macro lens for the camera as I would be able to use the TG-6 for macro, which I haven't done a lot of.

Question 3: I do like the fact that the TG is waterproof on its own, making a flood of the housing a non-event. How concerned should I be about flooding the housing with one of the other cameras? The OM-D EM-5 Mark III is advertised as weatherproof, whereas the OM-D EM-10 Mark IV is not. Would that provide enough protection to get to the surface without damaging the camera in the event you had a flooding alarm? TIA

 

[Hoag]

I will attempt to answer your questions (or at least to give you an answer), but please keep in mind that this is my opinion and as such should be taken with a grain of salt.

There is more to photography than sensor size (whether you are talking the number of MP, or the physical size of the sensor). Sure, those are factors, and should be considered, but they are not the sole determining factor.

Having said that, there are definite advantages and disadvantages to a larger sensor. In moving to the Backscatter E-PL10, you get a significantly larger sensor. All other things being equal, this should typically give you better dynamic range and should be able to gather more light. Other factors of course come into play such as the size of the individual pixels but in general a larger sensor tends to give better results.

Question 1: All of the cameras which you are considering are M4/3 cameras. They all have sensors with the same physical dimensions, so an increase in the number of MP in the sensor corresponds to a decrease in the size of the individual pixels. Underwater photography tends to be low light photography, and as mentioned (or at least alluded to) above, larger pixels tend to be able to gather more light (and will have less noise). There may come a point though at which a lower pixel count results in the printed image showing the pixels and appearing "grainy". This can be mitigated in software when editing the image. IMHO, I think that for the casual user, a 16MP M4/3 camera might actually give better results than a 20MP M4/3 sensor. (This might not be the case in the hands of a "trained professional".) IMHO, for this one, I would give the advantage to the E-PL10 system for casual use.

Question 2. I used to shoot with an Olympus M4/3 camera. With it, I used the kit lens for "Macro" and the Panasonic 8mm Fisheye for wide angle. There are again both advantages and disadvantages to using either a dedicated WA lens and dome port or using a Wet WA lens. Only you will be able to tell which suits your needs the best. A wet WA lens will offer the most flexibility. You can change mid dive to shooting wide angle. This is a great option. You will not, however be able to shoot an "Over/Under" shot with it because of the way the water will drain from it at the surface. You also have to remember to "Burp" it when you put it on. A dedicated WA lens (especially a fisheye lens), on the other hand would require another port, and you would be "locked in" to shooting only WA for that entire dive. You could, however, shoot "Over/Under " shots if that is where your creativity leads you.

Question 3: IMHO, with the possible exception of the TG Series of cameras, my rule of thumb is to never take any camera underwater that you are not willing to consider to be expendable. No matter how careful, how meticulous you are in maintaining your o-rings, the harsh cruel fact of life is that accidents do happen.
When a camera manufacturer says that a camera is weather sealed, they typically mean that if you are shooting in the rain, or in the mist from a waterfall, your camera will have a degree of protection. I would not interpret that as meaning that if your housing floods, the camera will be safe. It might be for brief periods of time (a couple seconds maybe), but in general, I would consider any time the housing floods, that you have probably lost the camera and lens that were in the housing.

I hope I have answered your questions effectively, but I sense that there may be one question left unasked ... "What would you (the reader) do in this situation?

If I were in your shoes, what would I do? I think that if I were doing a lot of photography "above the surface", I might lean toward the camera that will give me the best capability in that environment. If I am reading your post correctly, however, I read it as that you are looking to upgrade your underwater system. If that is the case, I would probably lean toward the E-PL10 and AOI housing as is for at least one dive trip and, with the knowledge that it is a compromise, see which direction your creativity pulls you. Do you like the versatility of being able to shoot a wide variety of subjects on the same dive ranging from the big (walls, sharks & shipwrecks) to the small (Christmas tree worms and Feather Dusters)? If that is the case, then maybe a Wet WA lens might be your best option. If, OTOH, you want to shoot similar sized objects on any specific dive, or you want to capture an Over/Under shot, then maybe a dedicated WA lens and Dome Port might be your best option.

Unfortunately, there is no simple "best answer". Like everything, which path you choose is a compromise and comes with its own advantages and disadvantages.

 

[scrane]

If you are shooting in JPEG mode you might find your IQ problems can be substantially improved by shooting in RAW and performing post processing with third party software.

 

[Guitarcrazy]

Thanks for the replies. I shoot in RAW and use Lightroom to edit in post. I use the Wet Wides now, and almost always have one on the camera. I haven't done a lot of macro as we dive Cozumel the most, and the current makes it difficult to spend a lot of time finding and composing shots of small critters. I have posted a sample of some photos I took this last trip. They are all cropped significantly since they were shot with the wide angle lens. I would like to be able to crop without losing as much quality, which is what leads me to thinking I need a larger sensor with more MPs. I have two YS-01 Strobes that I use in manual mode, and they seem to work pretty well. Thanks for the suggestions.

 

[Hoag]

Thanks for the replies. I shoot in RAW and use Lightroom to edit in post. I use the Wet Wides now, and almost always have one on the camera. I haven't done a lot of macro as we dive Cozumel the most, and the current make it difficult to spend a lot of time finding and composing shots of small critters. I have posted a sample of some photos I took this last trip. They are all cropped significantly since they were shot with the wide angle lens. I would like to be able to crop without losing as much quality, which is what leads me to thinking I need a larger sensor with more MPs. I have two YS-01 Strobes that I use in manual mode, and they seem to work pretty well. Thanks for the suggestions.

I could be wrong, but IIRC, there is an adapter that is available for the E-PL10/AOI system that allows the use of the Wet WA lens for the TG6 on it. That has the possibility to make that a cost effective yet significant up grade over the TG6.

 

[Guitarcrazy]

That is true, except that I bought the M52 when it was first released, and Backscatter said the first generation won't mount to the AOI housing unfortunately. That would have pushed me over the edge to the E-PL 10.

 

[scrane]

These pictures do lack sparkle. How do uncropped photos look? Are you sure you really need the wide angle?
The photos I've seen from others with a TG have looked really nice and colorful with good contrast.
I, personally am not willing to risk a nice camera underwater. There is risk to the camera and costs can be astronomical.

I was looking at your photos TG-5 from Cozumel, and it seems like half way through the sequence things went bad. Any ideas why this should be? My first thought would be a problem with the WA?

Of course, 12 mp is not a lot. If you want professional standard photos you have to go with professional standard equipment. But if not pushed too far I think the TG-6 can give great results and wow your friends.

 

[deeper thoughts]

That is true, except that I bought the M52 when it was first released, and Backscatter said the first generation won't mount to the AOI housing unfortunately. That would have pushed me over the edge to the E-PL 10.

That is true.
i switched to the newer lens
Backscatter gave me a great deal on the trade in lens dont remember the specifics
Cant hurt to reach out

 

[Guitarcrazy]

I will do some more consideration and contact Backscatter again when I am closer to a decision. My M52 has a few imperfections from use, but they don't affect the images at all. I believe the reason for the difference in those photos from TG-5 trip to Cozumel is my fiber optic cable broke during the trip and my strobes weren't firing correctly. Thanks.

 

[FezUSA]

Are you fully convinced that you're getting the most out of what you have and that the equipment is truly what's holding you back? I haven't looked through any of your pictures other than the ones above, and to be honest I would say they are nice pictures but nothing special. Please take this as just my personal opinion, and that I'm not a pro 'tog. I have a TG-4 in the Oly housing and have used a single strobe, and now use 2x Inon S-2000 strobes. I am very happy with some of my pictures, when it all comes together. When I'm not happy with my pictures it is easy for me to look at others and the equipment they are using and think that I need to upgrade. Which then puts me in a similar boat as you. Top side I have used the Oly XZ-1 as a travel camera, often when in a theme park with family where a DSLR, even a small one is clunky. I also have used an E-500 (1st DSLR) and now use an E-5. I started with the kit lenses and then upgraded to faster glass. All this to say that I enjoy taking pictures, I enjoy looking at others pictures, but a pro I am not. When I look at the Backscatter reviews of the TG series, the photos they take with them are still a lot better than mine, which means I need to learn more about the equipment I have and how to maximize and get better pictures; and do that until the camera is unable to meet my needs. For the TG series, that can come quickly if I need manual mode, for example. But I still look at others TG pictures and know I've room for improvement in my skills before I spend my hard earned cash on something else that at best will give me bigger print options of just meh pictures, and at worst will cost me a fortune if I flood it. I have flooded my Oly housing, 15 minutes in and at 65'. It was a small and slow leak and I shut the camera down and continued the dive, knowing that in all likelihood the camera should be OK. It was. A dirty (grain of sand) O-ring was the culprit and the rest of the weeks diving and picture taking went fine. With a DSLR and not only would I not have had pictures from the rest of the week, I'd also know I'm in the $$$ hole for a replacement camera.

TL;DR - would investing in some time improving your photo skills be a better option?