camera rig buoyancy help, I'm 2.85lbs negative

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Nice project, I'll try something similar. did you fill the tubes with something to support against pressure?

I was thinking, would a harder type Styrofoam do the job?
These are good so far with just air inside, to as deep as the Hole in the Wall at 145 feet.....with a material cost of a couple of dollars, it is not a big worry. Sandra has been using these over 2 years now, they seem indestructible, and probably good to at least 200 feet--they are fairly thick walled.

---------- Post added July 24th, 2013 at 09:18 AM ----------

Or just by dropping 2-3 lbs in lead...

Actually, you do NOT want the camera to be anything but dead neutral for ocean dives. If you are going to swim in a flat horizontal trim, and be optimal in the water, you will not want 3 pounds of negative weight out in front of you as you swim--this would throw off trim , forcing you to swim at an angle in the water more like a novice diver than a skilled underwater photographer.

---------- Post added July 24th, 2013 at 09:21 AM ----------

Nice project, I'll try something similar. did you fill the tubes with something to support against pressure?

I was thinking, would a harder type Styrofoam do the job?
These have huge volume---At Home Depot, I tried several diameters of PVC pipe--they are so cheap, there was no issue in buying several lengths of different sizes, to then gain custom flotation through how long each size pipe is.....
These are fairly large diameter as you can see--and thick walled, so they will not crush to depths much deeper than Sandra will ever dive.
 
Actually, you do NOT want the camera to be anything but dead neutral for ocean dives. If you are going to swim in a flat horizontal trim, and be optimal in the water, you will not want 3 pounds of negative weight out in front of you as you swim--this would throw off trim , forcing you to swim at an angle in the water more like a novice diver than a skilled underwater photographer.
That depends. Maybe you were feet heavy to begin with. Or you could offset it by getting heavier fins (further reduction in lead), or maybe move some lead to your feet as ankle weights. It's only a couple of pounds we're talking about here.
 
That depends. Maybe you were feet heavy to begin with. Or you could offset it by getting heavier fins (further reduction in lead), or maybe move some lead to your feet as ankle weights. It's only a couple of pounds we're talking about here.

If you put 2 pounds in the middle of your body, near your waist, it has no "lever or fulcrum effect".... put a little weight on your feet, or way out in front of your head( where the camera goes), and this small amount of weight has a very magnified lever effect on trim while swimming or hovering. As a photographer, there will be times we are over the top of sensitive corals or other environments, where we much hover in a flat horizontal position, and not impact the bottom with fins....to do this, you need good trim, and having a camera that makes you very nose heavy is a huge complication for this.

I suppose there are some places where this will never matter....Because Sandra and I dive in coral environments all the time, as well as on big adventure dive site areas where drift currents can be as high as 3 mph, we have our gear rigged for optimal trim no matter what we are doing. I can be flat horizontal and swimming slowly or hovering motionless, over a delicate coral 5 inches off of it( camera ahead of me), OR, I can have ideal trim for maximum propulsion efficiency, if I have to swim up-current around the edge of a shipwreck to get into position to photograph a 600 pound goliath Grouper in a perfect background for an ideal shot----to do this, I will hold my chamera on my side, tucked in like it is a stage bottle clipped to me on the left side, where it hides somewhat under the hydrodynamic protection of my arm.....I can gain at least double the max swim speed potential from doing this, and do not need to worry about my trim being massively thrown off with this entirely new position for the camera in the overall "leveraging" of weight placement on my body.
The same issue exists without a huge current, but where the photographer needs to swim a long distance between point A and point B, between which there is no planned shooting....these big camera rigs are the opposite of streamlined, so if you do have to swim a long way, it is nice to get them out of the high drag position, and tuck them away....you can then swim slowly and easily, with lots of glide between each kick--something that won't happen if you are pushing the camera in front of you.

But again, there are environments, perhaps yours, where these scenarios will never come into play.


[video=youtube;kWrlXJ_EL_k]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kWrlXJ_EL_k&feature=share&list=TL001Iv8Dmz os[/video]
This is a video I shot of one of my GUE buddies, Errol K....( who also happens to be a GUE instructor)....Errol is showing perfect trim for a photographer, which is important in a muck diving area like the Blue Heron Bridge Marine Park so that you don't silt constantly and ruin your own shots, as well as everyone else's.
The reverse kick and frog kicks are particularly cool for photographers, as you can see.
 
You can buy divynilcell built for boats
The issue that you have is that you then rig it nearly permanently to your arms
This may or not work well for you
As I swap the floats between rigs in found the stix floats to work well for me I don't believe the issue is that they lack buoyancy but that for certain rigs they are easily insufficient
For what you have they are enough i would go off the shelf unless you alike DIY projects or use them as an excuse to lock yourself in the workshop hahaha
 
Stix Floats are your best bet. And your camera rig won't look like a junior high science project, as well.

"junior high science project" is a fair assessment of my rig---but it weighs 10lbs in air and Stix Floats cost a fortune compared to Divinycell.

:D

It's pretty much neutral now at depth:



 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/perdix-ai/

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