Calculating the cost to maintain HID light

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

alo100

Guest
Messages
523
Reaction score
1
Hi,

I have heard that the HID light bulb is relatively fragile and expensive to replace.
Trying to get an idea about the maintainence cost. The HID light bulb, does it really last for that many hours? e.g. according to the data online/from the manufacturer.
Since the manufacturer of the bulb is not necessarily the manufacturer of the flash light. Is it possible that the guarantee from the manufacturer of the bulb is for 25 degree C, 1 atm pressure. While the bulb is used within a enclosed env (dive light) and the corresponding life span is shortened? Just in general, from your experience, does it match with the bulb manufacturer's claim. (e.g. only x 1/3, x 1/2 claimed life span?)

Metal vapour, metal halides... all about the same life span?
e.g. some said 10 W bulb is more fragile, any reason behind it?

Thanks... not sure if these are the right questions to ask...
 
alo100:
Hi,

I have heard that the HID light bulb is relatively fragile and expensive to replace.
Trying to get an idea about the maintainence cost. The HID light bulb, does it really last for that many hours? e.g. according to the data online/from the manufacturer.
Since the manufacturer of the bulb is not necessarily the manufacturer of the flash light. Is it possible that the guarantee from the manufacturer of the bulb is for 25 degree C, 1 atm pressure. While the bulb is used within a enclosed env (dive light) and the corresponding life span is shortened? Just in general, from your experience, does it match with the bulb manufacturer's claim. (e.g. only x 1/3, x 1/2 claimed life span?)

Metal vapour, metal halides... all about the same life span?
e.g. some said 10 W bulb is more fragile, any reason behind it?

Thanks... not sure if these are the right questions to ask...


i dont know how to answer your question but the lightbulbs are manufactured under the strictest conditions and quality control standards. they would pretty much last as long as they claim it to be and test for all kinds of working conditions. at the end there would be a small discrepancy in terms of degree for error etc. now in terms of usage in a hid divelight, there are many factors than can contribute to the longetivity of your lights and care and maintenance will always be good in the longrun. btw from the posts ive gathered the brightstar bulbs seem a whole lot more robust compared to the welch-allen bulbs, why this is i dont know. lightbulbs are also not the only stuff in the lights that need maintenance. you will also have to look into the sealing glands, cords and even switches. do a search in the forum for some answers. good luck.
 
alo100:
Hi,

I have heard that the HID light bulb is relatively fragile and expensive to replace.
Trying to get an idea about the maintainence cost. The HID light bulb, does it really last for that many hours? e.g. according to the data online/from the manufacturer.
Since the manufacturer of the bulb is not necessarily the manufacturer of the flash light. Is it possible that the guarantee from the manufacturer of the bulb is for 25 degree C, 1 atm pressure. While the bulb is used within a enclosed env (dive light) and the corresponding life span is shortened? Just in general, from your experience, does it match with the bulb manufacturer's claim. (e.g. only x 1/3, x 1/2 claimed life span?)

Metal vapour, metal halides... all about the same life span?
e.g. some said 10 W bulb is more fragile, any reason behind it?

Thanks... not sure if these are the right questions to ask...

First of all - which HID light? I have no experience with a 10w Halcyon, except that I had one for about a year or so and it was perfect until I eBayed it to upgrade to the Halcyon 18w.

I had a Sartek 10 watt for about 9 months. It was perfect until I eBayed it to upgrade to a Halcyon 18w.

I've had my two Halcyon 18w for about 2 and a half ("light A") and 3 years ("light B") respectively. Perfect performance until:

* I flooded two batteries in a week this summer (in the same light..."light A") THE SAME WEEK. Not my finest hour. Halcyon wanted a zillion dollars for a replacement batt. I found a local source (thank you TDS) and bought the same batt for $144 each. Connectors from M.Carr for about $6.

* I broke "light A" lamp 6 months ago. It didn't burn out. I fat fingered it. Purchased another one from W/A for $229. Ouch (snoozed on an eBay auction for $165... double ouch)

* Busted the lamp on "Light B" in transit to Hawaii in December (in my carry on... memo to self: remove the bulb for big trips.) For this one I went to Sartek and had them do the BrightStar mod for $125.

* In February Sent off "Light A" to Halcyon for a switch replacement. From the flood this summer the switch has been crunchy. They replaced the cord, glands, switch etc. for no charge.

* Broke the new lamp on "light A" (the one I replaced in summer) lobstering in January. Sent off "Light A" to Sartek for the BS Mod. Will have it back this week. $125.

Lets do the math. In the last 8 months I've poured almost $800 into these two lights.

In the first previous two years my maintenance costs were zip.

With the BS mods, my bulb issues are over. I now double check the Oring seal before every dive and I have once again known an unbroken streak of leak-free performance. I have new lamps, new batteries, a new cord and switch ("light A") and enough Orings to start a parade.

There it is. Crimany I hope I'm done with all of this.

---
Ken
 
Mo2vation:
With the BS mods, my bulb issues are over. I now double check the Oring seal before every dive and I have once again known an unbroken streak of leak-free performance. I have new lamps, new batteries, a new cord and switch ("light A") and enough Orings to start a parade.



---
Ken

this is encouraging news for owners of lamps with the BS bulbs. just wondering why the BS bulbs ares so much more robust than the WA ones. you would think that after years of manufacturing, WA would have improved on their bulb integrity, why they havent done it yet is quite surprising.
 
Not sure which bulb comes in the DR MR11 10W head but I haven't spent a dime on maintenance in nearly 100 hours underwater with it. The one time it didn't fire sporadically for three or four dives I happened to be in Lake City for breakfast day after the last instance. Stopped by DR HQ expecting to replace the 2.5-3 yr old battery but it tested fine and the light fired up consistently. Hasn't mis-fired since and that was Oct '04, Dyson offered to hook me up with a cold-water cord and a switch upgrade for $35, I should have taken him up on that, but sometimes I figure if it ain't broke don't fix it.

I do know a handful of folks that have banged the head against tanks, boat decks, sidewalks, etc and had $100 or so bills for new bulbs, a couple who are on their third or fourth bulb for these types of incidents, I'm careful to clip it off and replace the cover soon after surfacing and while I have banged it harder than I feel comfortable with I haven't had the misfortune of breaking the bulb or reflector in doing so.
 
Spoon:
this is encouraging news for owners of lamps with the BS bulbs. just wondering why the BS bulbs ares so much more robust than the WA ones. you would think that after years of manufacturing, WA would have improved on their bulb integrity, why they havent done it yet is quite surprising.

I actually prefer the W/A - the light is a better color, its more consistent, it produces a better beam in the light head. Its just a better bulb.

But at $229 a shot, its just too much to worry about. I dive 2 or 3 times a week - usually at night, usually with beach entries and exits. I beat these things up. I wish I could afford to keep the W/A going.

The design of the bulb (long filament, etc.) prohibits making it more robust.

But nice of you to drop robust into the thread.

Maybe that's the new MOF... getting "robust" into every thread.

Hmmmm....

---
Ken
 
Mo2vation:
I actually prefer the W/A - the light is a better color, its more consistent, it produces a better beam in the light head. Its just a better bulb.
I have two different versions of the BS bulb. The old version was no where as nice of a light as the WA. The new version I like better than the WA bulb. (Its brighter and whiter)


BS bulbs were created for the auto industry and the WA bulb was designed for the medical industry. Thats why one is more robust than the other.
 
Makes sense. Sartek is still using the old version for their cheap conversions.

Got it.

---
Ken
 
JeffG:
I have two different versions of the BS bulb. The old version was no where as nice of a light as the WA. The new version I like better than the WA bulb. (Its brighter and whiter)


BS bulbs were created for the auto industry and the WA bulb was designed for the medical industry. Thats why one is more robust than the other.

that is correct. the newer BS bulbs have in fact better reviews than the WA bulbs
 

Back
Top Bottom