C5050 powers off below 70 ft :(

[SFLDiver]

My rig:
C5050-Zoom
Ikelite case
DS-125 strobe with TTL .... yadda yadda yadda

Principal suspects here being either the camera or the case.

If I make a deep dive to below 70 ft
the C5050 powers itself off.

The power switch may be on, but the camera goes dead.

If I power it on while below 70, it comes on for a few seconds, then goes dead.

If I power it on above 70 ft, then go below 70 ft, .... goes dead.

We suspect some getting squeezed at depth,
maybe a dial getting pushed in?

Anyone have a similar experience ?

Case goes back into Ikelite for annual service next month.
I wrote Ike about it and that was their only suggestion ... servicing.

... bummed at 70+ ...

 

[Footslogger]

I've got the exact same rig and the closest I can come is that my LCD goes to sleep between shots now and then. Kinda pees me off if I get a sudden, once in a lifetime photo-op and have to wait until the dangblasted thing lights up again so I can compose the shot.

In my case it's probably a setting and I'm just to lazy to get into the set-up menu and adjust it.

Never have had the entire camera go down though ...at any depth.

'Slogger

 

[herman]

I have never heard of this but my first reaction is simply bad batteries. I can think of no combo of buttons that would cause it to power down and the internal pressure of housing stays at 1 atm so pressure should not be an issue unless the housing is somehow squeezing the battery compartment and I don't see that likely in an Ikelite housing. Swap to a new set of batteries and try it again. Have you done any diving above 70 ft (same batteries) where the camera did OK?

 

[SFLDiver]

Batteries are a possibility.
I bought a set of Energizer 2500 Nimh's that wont hold a charge past 3 days so I'm getting another set of Lenmars. I've got a few of my original set (3+ yrs old) that still work better.

The camera works like a charm above 70 ft. No probs at all.

As for your LCD back going to sleep, yup, they do that.
I've gotten in the habit of finding subject, pressing button to turn on LCD back,
frame up a few shots, done with subject, hit button to turn Off LCD and conserve batteries. Yes, the camera might put itself to sleep if you are more than a few minutes between subjects, in which case it takes me two stabs at the LCD button - once to wake it up, 2nd to turn on LCD.

Had the camera out for some land shots last night and started giving it the squeeze treatment to see if I could reproduce any powering off symptoms. No luck.

I think what I might do on any upcoming deep (wreck) dive is to be one of the last ones to go down the line. Power On the camera before descending and watch the case, buttons, camera for just where it might be getting squeezed-squoze-squozen.

I'm doubting it is particular to my camera, but could be.
It has been in for the service routine on the LCD (recall)
and the symptoms were there before it was serviced, and still persist.

Still, I'm eyeing eBay for a 2nd C5050 just as a backup.

 

[Footslogger]

Batteries are a possibility.
I bought a set of Energizer 2500 Nimh's that wont hold a charge past 3 days so I'm getting another set of Lenmars. I've got a few of my original set (3+ yrs old) that still work better.

================================
Guess all NiMH batts (even from the same company) aren't created equal. I've got 2 sets of Energizer 2500's and a MAHA charger - no problems.

'Slogger

 

[maractwin]

Another possibilities is that it's the batteries, as influenced by temperature. Most batteries provide less power when they are cold. Are your deeper dives significantly colder? That could cause borderline batteries to quit providing enough juice.

-Mark

 

[Footslogger]

Another possibilities is that it's the batteries, as influenced by temperature. Most batteries provide less power when they are cold. Are your deeper dives significantly colder? That could cause borderline batteries to quit providing enough juice.

========================================
In my experience the batteries in a camera tend to get a bit warm when shots are being taken in fairly rapid sequence. I would imagine that prevents the cold from being a possible factor in this case. But in general I agree that a cold battery has less overall output ...with the possible exception of the AA and AAA lithiums. They seem to be pretty impervious to temperature.

'Slogger

 

[SFLDiver]

I'm doubtful on the battery temp being a factor.
Last sunday we did a deep wreck first dive, below 70ft, and camera wouldn't stay on.
2nd dive was a reef at 60ft, and the camera behaved just fine.

I suspect the pressure squeezing something that doesn't like being squoozed.

Physics Q: what happens to the pressure within the case at depth?
Ie. a depth of 66 ft puts you in 3 ATMs, but what is the internal pressure in the camera case? My guess = 1 ATM, ergo same volume of air in same space,
thus it would reason it is a control arm / knob getting pressed inward.
I'm tempted to put an o-ring on the outside of the knob for the selector wheel
and top dial just to keep em from fully pressing inwards. I rarely use those UW.

Re: Energizers ... some of em behave fine, but I usually have to charge em up that day or day before. They lose a charge within a week.

 

[DBailey]

Physics Q: what happens to the pressure within the case at depth?
Ie. a depth of 66 ft puts you in 3 ATMs, but what is the internal pressure in the camera case? My guess = 1 ATM, ergo same volume of air in same space,
thus it would reason it is a control arm / knob getting pressed inward.
I'm tempted to put an o-ring on the outside of the knob for the selector wheel
and top dial just to keep em from fully pressing inwards. I rarely use those UW.

The case is a rigid, closed container; therefore, the pressure inside the case at depth is the same as when it is on the surface. Due to the o-rings at the buttons, there might be some minute pressure change in the case, but nothing that should be substantial enough to cause failure.

Do some experiments on land. Press and hold each button for a few seconds, does this cause it to shut down? My gut reaction is that you are on the verge of an o-ring failure and something wierd is happening at the o-ring/button with the pressure change at depth and causing one of the buttons to be depressed.

 

[SFLDiver]

OK, Narrowed down the problem by
1. picking up a 2nd C5050Z used on eBay for $200
2. taking it down to 90 ft and having it perform fine

So, something in the camera itself is hating the pressurized environment.
Confusing since the pressure change in the case should not be anything drastic.

I'll write Olympus next and see what they might suggest.
Last time it went in to them for service was for the Factory Recall on the defective CCDs.