Buying My Scuba Gear For OW Class...need advice

[ReefHound]

Reef,

I am only suggesting what the DIR and tech people recommend, which is the stuff many people are trading up to. No one here every asked the OP what kind of diving he does or plans to do. My suggestions just show that if you do it right the first time he is set until the equipment wears out and that quality equipment can cost less than the gimmick gear.

I think we agree entirely with the exception that I don't think a newbie that isn't even certified yet can accurately prognosticate what specific type of diving they will enjoy and do. Therefore I would recommend against trying to select gear based on a specific style of diving or worrying too much about ten years down the road. Those of us that have been diving a few years can do that since we have fine tuned our diving style and preferences.

I recommend getting basic gear of decent quality and good value, which just so happens to be what you recommended. This can be done very economically by shopping from the specials and closeouts of gear that was good in the past. It doesn't require buying bottom end cheaply made junk. Too many equate "quality" to a high price tag and lots of catalog features.

Example, the SP Jet fins are quality fins that have been time proven. No guarantee he will like them - many people don't - but they will suffice for awhile and hold their value. There's no reason for a newbie to spend $150 on the latest and greatest hydrodynamic vector vortex force titanium fins giving you more thrust and more efficiency than ever before.

 

[covediver]

Asking people's opinion on "what equipment to buy" is like asking "what religion is best?" The response is, "the gear I have, of course otherwise I would not use it" or "the one that I practice.

Having said that, I note that I have TILOS booties and really like them. However, on booties the sizing can be a little different from brand to brand as they are not standard. I bought my booties on line with my wetsuit by the shoe size and it turned out they were a bit big and I needed to exchange them. By the time I got finished paying the return shipping, etc, they were not a bargain but i got a good pair of booties at a fair price.

Good luck with your OW dive classes. I love the sport and have met many good people and friends over the years because of my decision to get certified, just so I could say I did it. Little did I know this impulse would become a preoccupation.

 

[ams511]

Reef hound is right. Remember Sanchez's Law: when the price of a piece of dive equipment is doubled, it's performance increases by 10%. That is why DIR, cave, tek, and other masters of diving pay four times as much for equipment. They can use and apply the 20% improvement in performance for what they are doing. For the rest of us, and certainly for a diver starting out, that extra expense for super-duper gear is not needed. Solid basic stuff has served me well for 30 years.

Stu, I have to disagree. The DIR equipment is not any more expensive than what rec divers use with the exception perhaps of the regulators. For regs they prefer the higher end Scubapros and Apeks. I do not count the tanks because if doing a cave penetration you need the larger gas supply of a steel tank as opposed to a standard Al-80, there is no way around this. Also drysuits are expensive but that is a function of the water temp and the time spent in the water. Granted you can buy cheaper masks and fins than what they use but also more expensive ones. You can read their equipment recommendations at the GUE website it contains probably 75% of what is in the fundies book.

You can purchase a used Scubapro Mk5/G250 combo off ebay and have it rebuilt and it will outperform 90% of regs on the market for significantly less than the cost of a low end reg. The dive industry reminds me of the college textbook market, publisher's release new editions to obsolete the older edititons and increase thier profits not to increase learning. Dive companies release new gear to sell more gear not to increase performance.

I am not trying to argue with you but I want to dispell the myth that quality and price are mutually exclusive.

 

[Carribeandiver]

You may want to try some fins before buying the x-pert zooms. I have a pair and like them very much but since, like you, I rushed out to get my gear before I was certified, I really cant say I wouldnt like another type better.
Also, I would absolutely think, twice, three times than twice more before buying a snorkel for 45 bucks. You can get a semi-dry and even a dry snorkel for around $20 and I cant see what the $45 snorkel would have that the $20 snorkel doesnt.
I needed a mask, snorkel, fins, boots, weight belt and weights for my OW class but most places supply the weight belt and weights.
I suggest getting what you need for the class and then taking your time to get the rest.

 

[scarefaceDM]

I would have to strongly disagree with ya on that there sir. DIR configuration gear is no more expensive as regular scuba gear. Not to argue with you either but it is a real myth.

It is all relative to the type of diving one would be doing. Tech diving means more tanks, more training thus more gear which is durable.

I am not DIR nor am I a tech diver, but I have configured my gear as such to be streamlined and balanced.

Single tank diving.

Wing, harness, 6 lbs SS plate: I got my Halcyon Eclyps rig for ...300$ CDN NEW! Add the 6lbs single tank adapter for 100$ plus the ACB weigh pockets for 80$..I paid 480$ CDN.

I started out with a Zeagle Ranger. I paid 750$ CDN for that rig. SOld that to buy my Backplate and wing.

Mask. A good low profile mask, Black skirt, I got my sea vision for 175$ cd. I got a back up later, Oceanic shadow for 70$..CDN Again low profile.

Reg: Mares Abyss. Paid 850$, plus an MK12 with r190, 280$ CDN new
Bottom timer: 100$ used.
computer Aladin pro nitrox, 450$ CDn used.
Suunto & low profile compass. 40$ cdn new

Fins, Mares Quatros with spring starps. Use them for wetsuit and drysuit diving.

Drysuit. Bare CD 4 prodry. 950$ new
Skaana drygloves 165$CDN new

Wetsuit. Henderson Gold core 7mm. 400$

Lights. I have two back ups and soon a canister light.
Back ups. 3 C cell, scouts got them USED excellent shape 55$ each. I paid 165$ new for a UK D8. Sold that for my scouts.
Canister light. Well there is an expensive light. BUT well worth it in night diving.

The rest of my gear was basics, the usual stuff, hood, booties, 3 mm gloves aka recreation dive gear.

I dive single 80 tanks.

No more expensive as recreational dive gear. when starting out.

What I am trying to point out is. You do not have to break the piggy bank to buy QUALITY. You have to shop around and deals will pop up.

But buy quality.

Once I venture to the twin side of things...I would need to spend just under 1500$ for tanks, wing and small stuff.

Again depending on the type of diving it is all relative. I am happy for now.

Reef hound is right. Remember Sanchez's Law: when the price of a piece of dive equipment is doubled, it's performance increases by 10%. That is why DIR, cave, tek, and other masters of diving pay four times as much for equipment. They can use and apply the 20% improvement in performance for what they are doing. For the rest of us, and certainly for a diver starting out, that extra expense for super-duper gear is not needed. Solid basic stuff has served me well for 30 years.

 

[Stu S.]

Well, guys... just sharing some experience here. In the Fall of 2005, my daughter was an OW student. We went gear shopping, and it was amazing how some dive store people pushed the most expensive gear at us. Safety was a big selling point. That $600 regulator is the only one you can trust, Dad. Growing into a very advanced diver in a hurry was another reason why only the most expensive would do. We were shown some beautiful gear for going below 200 feet. And, there were a few straight shooters too.

Most did not know I had been diving myself for a while. I looked like a Daddy with money... ca-ching!

We selected gear, and bought both locally and on line. Items included Mares Avanti X-3 fins, Oceanic regulator, and a barely-used Aqua Lung back inflate BC (for $100). This was all name brand, no Brand-X. After 50 dives, the kid decided she wanted some stiffer fins, and got some. Just like Reef Hound said. The whole setup has been trouble-free and easy to use. I suppose if she ever decides to dive Norway, she will need some different gear, but it is all Florida for now.

College is next year for my young diver, and I think we took the right approach to gear. Get solid, basic stuff and get out there diving. We've sure had a lot of fun. Of all the people in her OW class, she is the only one still diving. That's too bad.

Thanks for reading!

 

[ams511]

Stu, it was the same way when I was certified back in 1991. Always pushing the top end and the lower priced stuff was junk. They even did this for non-life support items such as defog and log books. It is sad because people with average means leave diving or don't start because they think it costs $2,000 for equipment. However, a new diver can still buy gear that will take them to DIR, Cave, and Tech diving for the price of what recreational gear costs. Then as he or she progresses they can the additional gear. Also if willing to purchase used gear the costs can come down considerably.

 

[SharkDiver36]

#1 thing to consider when purchasing SCUBA gear is FIT and COMFORT, neither of which you can do on a web page.

The snorkel is a complete waste of $$. Unless you plan to do snorkeling between dives it's a waste of money. A Cheap pocket snorkel is the way to go for those "just in case" scenario's. Also remember this about the Ultra-Dry, it has a FLOAT in it that closes the top and makes a "dry" snorkel. It will make your snorkel float and pull on your mask, not that it's that bad, but it can be annoying at times.

I’m all for saving money, but if you don’t buy some things at your LDS, it won’t be there to 1)even try things on so you can buy the thing on-line, 2)get air, 3)take class’s, 4)repair/service your gear. Buy whatever you can at the LDS unless the price difference is significant.