Buying a used strobe for G10.

[HerraduraDivers]

See if the optical conector of the YS110 strobe fits your plug,
otherwise just cut the optical cable after the plug.
The optical connector on my housing is different, it's a rubber plug,
but as far as i can see on yours, stick the cutted end thru the cromed screw
and screw it tight so that the cable can't slip out and everything works.

Another hint, in front of the zoom lever is a small, removable screw to block the zoom lever.
Take this out and put teflon tape (pipe dope) on it if you screw it back on.
The sense of this screw is that you can't zoom to avoid that the lens hit the wide angle port and get damaged
Stainless steel and aluminium are not good long-term friends and the screw will seize by
galvanic currents after a few dives. Mine almost seized so i eliminated her and don't touch the zoom lever.

Chris

 

[goneaway]

Thanks for the replies! I will go have a look at it this weekend and try it, if it works fine on land I'll probably take it.
I must say I feel the optical connector beeing abit meaningless. There is nothing in the screw that tightens the grip of anything inserted. I will probably try to fit it in and glue the opening of the screw with clear Locktite.

About the zoom lock screw, I tossed that first thing. I can use about 30% zoom without it and not touching the glass of the port. And the screw was so poor that I felt the thread beeing abused after the first testrun in the pool.

I'll try to remember to get back when/if I buy the setup. I just hope the arms are sturdy enough to act as handle.

Thanks a million for the input!

//Fred

 

[HerraduraDivers]

Oh, yes, sorry,
i forgot to answere your question about the arm/handle.
Screwing the lower arm tight it should be strong enough to
act as grip under water. But i find this solution a bit unconfortable
and dangerous because the ball joint may slip and the camera/arm/strobe may fall down/hit some thing.
I would suggest to buy the strobe/arm/tray and adapt a handle and mount the first arm on the top of it. When you have the tray there you may find a solution to fix a rod/tube on the tray, slip a bicycle grip over it and fix the strobe arm on the uper end of the handle.
If you are not handy with tools, a friend or a workshop will do such a thing for a few bucks.
Nemrod for example made a nice handle: http://www.scubaboard.com/forums/strobes-lighting/323057-what-style-tray-handles-get.html

Another thing i just detected, it seems to me that the tray has only one screw to screw the camare on. The Patima (at least mine) has 3 holes and i think that this heavy housing will need 2 screws to stay put. Ask the seller that he gives you more informations about the tray and screws to be sure that they fit.

Chris

P.S. The optical cable will stick somehow inside the cromed thingy and you should not use glue or similar
as you may have to detach the cable from the camera. I am sure that Patima made a "hidden" mechanism to keep the cable there inside.

 

[goneaway]

I only see one possibilty to get the cable to remain attached without adhesive.

The small oring was placed in the bottom of the thread and the chrome screw pressing down on it.
So I see the only was would be putting the oring over the cord and then sticking it into the socket, applying pressure with the screw to tighten the oring and the oring should then get flatter and tighten inwards and such holding the cord.
All this is pure speculation but I'll try to explain how it works if I get it.

I will have a something done with the handle yes, maybe buy a patima handle from Reef when I get to the US later this fall.

//Fred

 

[HerraduraDivers]

You guessed right! My system is similar, just looks different..

Chris

 

[AndyT]

Just be aware that the TTL via fibre optic cable on the original YS110 is not very reliable - my dive buddy has one and he had to go to a hard wired electrical connection to get regular decent exposures. This has been noted in several threads on this board. It sholud be OK if you are going to control your strobes manually however.

 

[goneaway]

I will most likely go for manual. E-TTL requires some form of converter from what I understand, converter beeing ridiculosly expensive. Also the risk of flooding will be lower with optical connection.
I appreciate the input though.