Buying a compressor

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

Pescador,

I have found the website for Brownies tankfill (http://tankfill.com/) and will be contacting them later this week. From the website -which can be decieving - they look exactly like what I need. You brought up finding servicing around the world, that is something that I am very very conscious of. On a trip like this it is something that is paramount in my mind for every piece of equipment that will be going on the boat..even my back ups will have back ups.

Rodier:

Thanks your second post...but the first and thrid ones...***??!!

Wahoo!!
 
Pescator:

The first post got out by accident when I hit the return key to start a new line...

Indeed the Brownies solution looks nice. Bauer is the biggest name out there. However the quality is not what it used to be... L&W offers also custom solutions for boats like Brownie's does. Just talk to Bernd.

Regarding service. Compressors are fairly simple machines. Almost like 2 stroke engines. It will be very helpfull if you do a course with a Mfg to learn how to analyse a problem. Most commonly you have to know how to replace valves, a V-belt and some other high pressure line related isues.

Make sure you bring a decent spare part kit. With all the valves and replacement bolts for the heads (you will be amazed to see how they weare out).

Regarding the choice of compressor you might want to keep in mind if you want to mess with Imperial size bolts and nuts. Or keep everything metric....

A specially tools to pull worn out bolt heads and create new treats.

Been there done it.

Been managing dive shops in de Caribean for many years, seen it all.
 
Rogier:
Pescator:

Make sure you bring a decent spare part kit. With all the valves and replacement bolts for the heads (you will be amazed to see how they weare out).


More specifically, what spare parts do I need to keep?

Thanks in advance,
 
Tankfill.com is a good resource. They probably have the best turn key solution. You may want to call Bob Outlaw at blue stone dive resort. He is a compressor guru and could probably give some great advice on compressor choices.

Brent
 
Parts you need to have on stock are:
All cylinder valves (some stages even multiple stocks), Gaskets, Cylinder head bolts.
V-Belt, Final stage sleeve and piston assembly, High Pressure couplings for all sizes of tubing in your compressor and fill system. Various filters and lubricants.
And then there are some other items depending on what compressor you have. Like an overhaul kit for the oil pressure regulator, Overhaul kit for the various solinoid valves.
Overhaul kits for the various water seperators. etc etc.
 
Wahoo, the Bauer will last for years without attention. After five years, or 500 hours, it might be time to replace the third stage valves or the drive belt but my Bauer is using the original belt installed 1974 and the third set of 3rd stg valves. (Otherwise, all stages are original). A stuck valve will start clicking or the second stage relief valve will let you know(whoosh). A one hour job. Bauer normally supplies a couple of special spanners to do this. Comes with the compressor package. For travel, you will need a couple gallons of oil and a six pack of filter cartridges and whatever tidbits your dealer suggests. If anything, the quality is better. The new blocks are excellent. The new third stage has replaceable rings. Should last a long time. The new oil system is low pressure which is considered to be more reliable. However, I haven't had any problems with the old, 750 psi system.
 
I have a 1986 Bauer V-14, the first Major service to the actual block was 2nd, 3rd, & 4th, stage valves at 1500+ Hours. I did 2nd. and 3rd. only becasue I had it apart already and figured it would not be long. The First stage lasted to 3500+ hours and I did all the valves again at that time. Breathing Air Systems stocks almost any part you need, and can have them to you in 24 hrs. Stocking parts is like putting $1000.00 on a shelf and letting it rot, let them stock the parts and you go spend the money on a Diving.
Filter cartriges are good to stock but they do expire on the shelf. Most of the time you can get a new filter in less than a week, so that is not really needed unless your a shop and pressed for time.

I also have a Poseidon 7cfm, 1 Bauer 5.5 cfm and a Mako 5.5 cfm compressor so plenty of experience when it come to playing with these toys.

I'll be glad to help in any way I can..
 
When I look at the small compressors- it says that there is a 2 hour max duty cycle. How long does it need to be shut down for after the 2 hour cycle? If you are on a boat and need to fill 6 tanks, this could be a problem if you have to shut it down for hours.
 
If you have only six tanks, then the run time should be no problem. It is suggested to shut down the small compressors for about the same amount of time that you ran it to allow it to cool down.

There is no hard and fast rule as to how much time on and how much time off. It all has to do with the temperature of the oil and heads. In general, if you cannot hold you hand on the inlet piping of the third stage, then it is too hot and needs to cool.

Running these little guys too hot will cause the oil to break down. At that point the oil no longer has any lubricity and starts eating the compressor parts.
 
What brand is the compressor ? I have never run into a unit that had a run time limit, except for some of the old Ingersall Rand compressors. You had to manually shut them down every 15-20 min. to dump the condensation because they used a centrifical ball bearing system for the dump valve, once it dumped you could start it right up and run it. But that was in the cave man days of high pressure compressors.

I have run my V-14 for 36 hours without stopping. (Filling Air Packs for the F.D. when the Race Track Burned down in A. Hts. Ill.) My 5.5's for 14 hours (Makos & Bauer) All ran in well ventilated areas, with synthetic oil, and 15 min. dump times. All still running today.
The newest 5.5 I have is 28 years old. If you stick to Bauer of Mako you should have no problems. What really ruins a compressor is low oil or not running them. When they sit the oil drains down over time and leaves upper parts un-protected from corrosion, and when you do start it up you have metal on metal wear. I run mine once a week for 1 hour during the low demand seasons. (Winter)
 

Back
Top Bottom